ramsesosirus

So would storing it outside be OK, with a tarp under and a car cover over it? I think they salt the drive areas at storage but this should keep it off the car; Id coat the bottom with oil and do a good wax first; What about that electrical rust prevention? Does that work?

Both my classic cars have some rust (in a perfect world I could afford to buy cars with NO rust, but hey I like old cars and fixing them myself); I've tried POR-15 before with decent results. I can't do frame offs right now. I hope I don't have to drive the Z in teh winter, but I'm young and poor so that has to be an option; Plus it has some pretty bad floor holes and holes in the rear frame( rear of floorpan) as well. What should I do for now to slow its progression? Will tranny or motor oil spray work, what about covering with rust oleum primer? POR 15 takes too long to start now with the hope of being done by winter; I do plan on 'restoring' these cars after college, when I should hopefully have enough money and a garage (heated/cooled!!); Plus I live in NE so finding something rust free (especially old cars, ESPECIALLY a 76 Z) is pretty much impossible unless you pay too much to even drive it! I love cars and would rather work on old ones that buy a new one, you learn so much and gives you a sense of accomplishment. ANY ADVICE is appreciated I heard Z's rust quick; I drove my 87 Monte SS for 2 winters (i was 19 and had no choice, if I wanted a cool car i had to drive it, now its in storage!:squareeyeO And the SS is still in decent shape. If I care for the Z in the winter like i did the Monte (regular washing, etc..) will it stand a chance? Other option is to store outside, where it may continue to rust/etc.. anyway!! Help Please.

first of all no emissions in Nebraska. I don't think the 76 could ever pass, no cat converter! (never was); Ok if that is the idle screw, what is the smaller screw by the actual throttle linkage? Is this the fast idle screw? We moved both screws to get it running better; Oh I had also cleaned almost all of the electrical connections (CTS, bullets, fuse links, etc...) with some spray the previous day. They were pretty green. I think that probabaly had more of an effect than anything, since we'd adjusted those screws before and could never rev it without a HUGE plume of black smoke, now there is pretty much NO smoke! Voltage guage also reads higher now. (like 14 but when I test at battery I only get about 12.9) I read the book pretty good and know better than to adjust sensors unless you ARE SURE about it. I guess we'll see if the smoke stays away... Thanks:cool:

Good news Got my car to stop spewing black smoke; I cleaned all electrical connectors and adjusted the idle screw and the spring loaded screw on top of the intake, the one right above the TPS; What is the name of this screw? Manual doesn't seem to list it, and I'm sure it's not the idle or fast idle since it does not contact the throttle itself;

Sounds like you hazard switch might be backwards; When the hazard switch is set to on, the signals should not be able to work and vice versa. Unless your wiring is different than mine. HTH

Hello there I am probabaly needing a new alternator and battery for my 76 280Z. I believe these had the external regulator. I have heard I can use an 80-83 280ZX alternator with no mods except for the old regulator wiring? Is this correct? When I searched for both car parts, both gave me a 60 amp alternator. Also who is the guy on the site that sells the adapter piece or does a store sell it? Is this upgrade worth it? Thanks

Thanks sblake, you always seem to know! That kind of sucks, about the 8 extra pins, I thought I was bout to figure out this rich problem....; Just double checking about ignition, don't want to create any more problems! I'm starting to wonder if I have enough time to figure this out before winter, then it will be too cold to do much!

Ok, so I'm reading the EFI bible (single best car information I've ever read...) and want to test components via the ECU 35 prong connector. I don't want to damage anything. Before testing with voltmeter/ohmeter do I need to disconnect battery or not? anything else? It says disconnect ignition before disconnecting ECU connector, does this mean disconnect the coil wire or what? Thanks

Thanks; I equated it to a choke lever bc that is exactly what they look like on old Jeeps and on the golf carts at work. I'll have to check the drivers side for one as well. That just shows how young I am, any car I've had has the fresh air selector on the HVAC controls. So which setting is for fresh air?

Well the good news is I got the turn signals to work!!! I am so happy! Bad news is the hazards still wont even light at all. Problem with the signals was the Previous owner removed the console to install CD player, didnt reconnect the hazard switch!!!!! Some people.... Thanks

I have a manual pull/push lever on the passenger side of my 76 280Z, under the glovebox. What does this do? is it stock? I've seen pics of them next to the fuse box but mine is more under the glove box. Thanks.

In that case, does anyone make a rebuild kit for the R200 (i think that is the trans i have)? Cant find any online... Thanks

Ill get a pic ASAP guys, then maybe you'll get a better idea of what the deal is; But at least I get defrost hot air now!!!!

Is it possible to install a TH350 or TH350c in a 76 280Z using the adapter from MSA to the L28, or is this adapter for V8 motor conversions only? I ask this bc my trans is weak and I have a TH350c from my old Monte that I plan to rebuild. How about the u-joint/driveshaft connection, shifter connection? thanks I cant seem to find rebuild kits for the stock Z auto tranny

Thanks, don't worry about it. Good news is I hooked all 3 lines up to the vac barb, and got the defrost to work, it blows hot air! However heat won't come out of the vents... no matter which setting it is on. If it is on Bi level, heat comes out defroster but cold air out the vents... What does this mean? A stuck heater 'door' or flap?? Still runnin pretty rich, going to check the CTS, TTS, CTS, AAV,AFM once it stops raining. Thanks

Ok this barb is where the hose for the fast idle valve is attatched, can I run a tee from this to all 3 lines and get the required pressure?? I checked the manual, there should be 2 vac hoses from the heater control in the engine bay, right?? but only one barb/port?

Sailor Bob so those 2 lines from the firewall connect to somewhere in the manifold?? LIke I said there doesn't appear to be any open ports and the manual I downloaded doesnt seem to help with the vac lines; Could you take a look under your hood and see where they go? The lines are not cracked, but they stop right above the manifold. Can I just put a Tee in there somewhere; will any vacuum source work??? THanks

Thanks man, yeah I downloaded that manual online but didn't realize it has a troubleshooting section. The cold start thing is a good place to start. You seem to be the Datsun guru around here! Love that truck you got too. Thanks Any ideas on the heater?

Just bought a 76 280Z which will be my daily driver for a year or so. Not perfect, but I have the same feeling as when I bought my 87 Monte SS, really excited! There are two main issues I am concerned about right now... 1. Car runs rich, ie blackish smoke from exhaust. It is fuel injection. I put new plugs in (NGK) and new fuel filter (purolator). Can someone lead me in the direction to fix this problem? Gas is too expensive to waste! I was thinking along the lines of a sensor or the coil, etc.. 2. Heater/ defrost doesn't work. It blows air, not hot though. Defrost selector won't work, never blows air out windsheld vents, just vents. I am thinking heater core, maybe the heat door is stuck closed, and for the defrost I don't know. It will get COLD here so it is pretty much a necessity. The two vacuum lines from the firewall by battery are broken and I can't find any open ports or diagrams. I am 99% sure these are the two vac lines from the heater/AC control. Where did these connect to? Thanks a lot, I am looking forward to working on my Z! I also have an 87 Monte SS that I have partially restored all by myself, which I am very proud of, so I am pretty mechanically able and willing to get dirty to fix em.