ramsesosirus

I've heard it's a good idea to put a sheet of rubber or something over/around the positive terminal, so that if the battery slides, the positive won't touch the ground- since the positive is on the passenger side usually. Mine didn't come with anything for hold down, so I'm just using two thick rubber tie downs (tied in a knot to reduce length) until I can get a better option. But it does work.

This usually means only one of them is working. If only the hi or lo works, it will sound crappy or like a clown car. Mine sounds like a standard horn, as you would expect.

Looks like it's pretty tough to find both lo and hi horns, let alone the proper brackets... But I'm sure you could make one or have one made pretty easily. Maybe the 280zx horns are the same? Those seem more readily available... I might have time later to disconnect each of my stock horns and see which is hi/lo... assuming mine are original (99% sure they are) and assuming your car's PO left the stock one where it initially was. Apparently it sounds horrible if they aren't both working

Does look like the bracket is different that the 75/76...

Cool thanks. Is that typical for most cars? Or do most just have one horn device? Any advantage to this? And here are pictures @MattSaint not my car, but this is exactly what it looks like... symmetrically mounted on each side, as you can see this is a 280z with 240z bumpers. And it is likely they all used the same actual horns, I think he is thinking the bracket mount changed in 1977, I do not know. All I know is my 76 looks just like these pics. This ebay listing does seem to show 2 different styles of mounts... maybe this is what he means changed....

I don't have a pic, car is in storage, but I do recall the horns to be symmetrically positioned/mounted. 1976 here. So you're saying there is supposed to be a high and low horn? I thought they just both went off together??

Good call, I do plan on an aux cooler. There is a chart that shows that the temp. of an auto trans is directly related (and possibly the most important thing) to the life of the trans. While the chart only goes up to 100,000 miles, I've had several autos get to over 200,000. But you get the idea...

That's what the FSM shows, and what I found as well. Driver's side rear. There is a matching "spot" on the passenger side, but you have to fab a mounting bracket.

That's what I've heard (for both engines and trans.), is that the synthetics "knock" the sludge/deposits loose, causing problems. I change my oil regularly, but you never know about the POs. This is a used transplant engine to replace the blown stock one, and I've changed the oil 3 times in about 1000 miles just because, it probably sat unused for a long time. Good to hear the Jatco's are easy to rebuild. I've never rebuilt an engine, but I did take about a Chevy TH350c just to see how they work. Is there any way to "beef up" these auto trans for more power during a rebuild? Or anything else I should know about these trans? I know I'll prob get some flack for saying this, but I really prefer auto transmissions. My left leg doesn't get sore, cruising is fun, no clutch to go out, etc.. And, if they're built right, you don't lose a heck of a lot of power, at least when you're not a professional/and/or racing for money, something like that.

Can I hook one of those up to that third brake light? Or is there a better option? https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/emergency-strobe/brake-light-strobe-module/195/845/?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=base&utm_content=LSC-100A&utm_campaign=GoogleBaseChild&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7svCtoLu1gIVkYVpCh13IA7XEAYYASABEgJLBvD_BwE I actually find these kind of annoying to be behind. I think the tailgating is more of people being jerks and/or poor drivers than not paying attention. And if it is that they're not paying attention (ie texting, phone, eating, any number of other things) then nothing is going to help.

You could be correct, however my 76 FSM only shows one, on the driver's side, and I recall someone else confirming that most (maybe not all?) only had 1 stock speaker. I can confirm that when I pulled both rear panels, there was only one speaker on the driver's side. I had to make (rig up) a bracket for the passenger side, to add a speaker. The best upgrade is probably a small amplifier powering 2 good 6x9 speakers, using that speaker panel you can get. Even if you have 2 speakers in the rear stock location, they face each other, and not the driver/passenger.

Is it ok to use synthetic after using the regular for all these years? I've read that you don't want to switch to synthetic engine oil on an engine that has been using standard for years. Now, if I were to ever rebuild either, I'd definitely go with the best synthetic I could get.

Thanks for the reply, good advice. I'm more concerned about whether or not I should even do this, since I've heard that if you wait too long (or if it hasn't been changed in a while) that the detergents/etc... in the new fluid might help the trans to fail. Surely it's been changed once in it's life? Could trans oil last 40 years and still allow the unit to perform well? Mine shifts great, just wanting to stay on things.

I hear lots of contradicting info about this, but my stock 76 has a stock 3 spd automatic transmission. The odometer shows 85,000 and is likely accurate, judging by the rest of the car, but it could theoretically be 185,000. The car is 40 some years old. The service records never indicated a transmission fluid change. I know I would NOT want to flush it, but would dropping the pan and changing the filter/refilling be a good idea? (I've done this job on other vehicles, got the transmission oil bath...) I'm not having any problems, it is shifting great. Also, what would be a good fluid to use to refill? I assume it hasn't been using synthetic. The color isn't black, but it's not a nice red/pink either. And filling transmissions to the proper level is kind of tricky I've noticed. It doesn't say on the dipstick how to check, but a lot of cars say to check it: warm and in neutral. Honestly I'd probably rebuild the auto if it ever did go out, even though I have a later 6 spd in the garage. The auto is much better for cruising, which is all this car is for. Thanks

Bump now that it's (almost) October... And that IT movie is breaking records.... Any thoughts on the old vs new versions? I think they're both great adaptations.

Yep, I just got my stick on third brake hooked up. I have louvers as well. Works great as is bright. As mentioned in other threads, I did the Sylvania ZEVO LEDs for the brake and signal lamps. They work great, they use the stock reflector unlike other LEDs. Had to get a Novita EL552 flasher (works with a mix of LED/Incand but not all LEDs as my fronts are still Incand). Plugs right in and works. Pulling off the road is a good option (and the only one) sometimes. I can almost guarantee this would back all but the most valiant tail gaters off... haha I wonder if you could run a completely independent "flamethrower" exhaust system, using propane or something? that was it is an isolated system, probably even use a 2nd exhaust tip... "Officer this Z shot flames and melted my front end!!" Yeah whatever, that means you're too close. Good for them, ticket.

I've heard the rear bracket is tough, there isn't any kind of plug and play option. Honestly, the CD player that came in mine is just sitting in there. It doesn't move around much, I'm sure a CD would skip, but I just use the AUX to plug in my MP3 Player (sony walkman, which is like an Ipod) Have you upgraded your speakers as well? I'm pretty sure stock Z's only had 1 stock rear speaker, the other side had the same provisions, so i made a bracket to match. Some PO also put speakers in the door panels, and I found a nice small "box" with some 5 1/2" speakers. Much better, but it really needs an amplifier. Someone had subwoofers/amp in it at one point, judging by the wires I found in the rear (power, RCA, remote).

Haha yeah I do tend to pretty transparent. It's part of "my story", and I appreciate it when others can relate. That's a crazy long time without a license! Around here it really sucks since public transportation is a joke. It would be different in NYC or somewhere like that. I did my share of bicycle commuting for a minute. Luckily, nowadays, they make/let you get that breathalyzer in your car, so you can still drive. Since something like 70% of people who lose their license (for whatever reason) still just drive. Sometimes you have to get to work, food, etc... There's a lot of judgement about it, even though I'm willing to bet that most people have been just as guilty at some point. I know a guy who's been let go my the police multiple times. I only spent 30 hours in jail (more than enough), then house arrest, ankle bracelet, then years of probation. The stuff you have to go through only fuels the desire to drink more. Made some art about county jail. I loved the way my eyes communicated the pain involved from the entire situation. It's kind of like a slumber party that you don't want to be at: And a good friend of mine was killed in high school by a drunk driver, so I get it. I'm not proud of it. But I'm proud that I have empathy for other people's problems. It really is a problem for me that I will have to work on for the rest of my life. At least you had fun! Almost all of my experiences were negative, I'm like Dr. Jekyll/ Mr. Hyde with that stuff. The irony is I quit that skunk smoking since I graduated college and jobs do drug tests and I thought it was a better "legal" alternative... very wrong I was, as Yoda would say. I should've stuck with the pot. It's legal in a few states now, so I think they're starting to realize it's not even in the same room as alcohol, but the new problem they have is how to manage "marijuana DUIs", since it is in your system for a long time (30 days or more, I can attest to this from experience..). The other consideration is how much does it really impair your driving? A comedian once said if it was legal to smoke and drive, people would be driving all slow and letting everyone get over haha! I really appreciate your honesty too, much respect. I hope you've gotten it under control, or at least found ways to deal with it. You can probably guess why that Monte was totaled at this point... I made some art about that day, featuring the real plate and sling: During my sober periods, I focus on staying busy: making art, planning for Halloween, working on the Z. I would like to think that once (if) things start getting better financially, socially, etc... I might realize it isn't worth it. But it's not like drugs, it's everywhere: TV, sports, every store you go to. It's always there, and encouraged. I was heavily considering getting the message "ZUI" on my plates, then the cops would laugh when they run my record. Oh well, that's life. Sometimes it's the pain and disappointment that fuels growth and progress. Or at least I hope so, nowhere to go for me but up right now. At least I was able to keep the Z all that time. Makes you appreciate driving it that much more! Much respect again, thanks!

Cool, thanks man. Yeah you're right. I don't drive it to work anyways. Same price I pay now too basically. I avoid rush hour traffic in the Z. Like I said, it's pretty bad here sometimes even though it shouldn't be. I also don't know if mine qualifies as "unmodified". I guess no one would really know, but sometimes that screws up insurance. I know Progressive won't insure a vehicle with "modified suspension". Nebraska is good for a few car things though, no emission/inspections ever, unless you bring it from another state. So it is legal to swap any engine into any car. States like Cali must be a nightmare for yearly inspections I also like that you only need to run the rear plate, Nebraska requires a front and rear plate otherwise. I got a fix it ticket in the Monte for that, I put a new front clip on it and didn't want to drill for a front plate. Plus they look better without. I did eventually just stick one on the front after the fix it ticket with 3M tape. Never fell off even at 60/70/80 mph. That 3m tape is great stuff. I do like my current plate design though. I've been trying to just get "Z" and "ZZZ" or a variation for years. I don't think the owner of "Z" is every gonna give it up. And "ZZZ" would hint at being a "sleeper", which mine is not. Just stock. For some reason I just think that "less is more" on a plate. Another visual variation that makes people notice your rear end, and hopefully realize that it's a classic. I wonder if you can get a personal "message" on those historical or vintage plates. I have a long love/hate relationship with the DMV haha. They give me my license, but also take it away. The result of poor decisions.

Nice, I think they have those here, but you're really limited as to when you can drive it (parades only, not to work or school, etc...) So you're saying those were the plates issued in 1972 or whatever year Z you have? Or they're just "antique" plates? Your car looks great BTW, jealous of that garage setup. Really liking the spoiler, how did you attach it? So the original 240z's had no holes and indentations below the bumper, or you smoothed it out? Member that old Valvoline commercial, where they're going down the block in the suburbs and they get to that house where it's just a huge garge, and a tent in the yard? That's a 80's Monte SS in the driveway! Then they say "You know the guys who use Valvoline". Haha! I've never been able to find that commercial online, which is weird. There was also a "rare" aerocoupe version in 86 and 87, basically a big hatchback type window. Don't care for it, ruins the body lines IMO. Old Aerocoupe Monte SS ad: (they call it a fastback in the commercial). They did this since the Monte's aerodynamics were horrible, it's boxy. So for the NASCAR racing, they had to produce one to the public to be able to use it. I'm pretty much an expert on the 4th gen Montes. (1983-1988). Very good looking cars when done right. The stock 305 was too weak for the weight of the car, I think stock Zs have similar horsepower. I think white and blue were the only color options initially, but later you could get maroon, black, silver, white. I think blue was only a 1983/4 option. I could tell you every variation they made, like side mirros, rear bumper and tail lights changed in the later years. The wheels and spoiler also changed. The decals also changed several times over the years. The color of the decals (SS) depended on the color of the car. There were gold, red, orange, maybe some other decal colors. Still have the 87 style decals from Phoenix grafix, had planned to use them if I ever repainted it. My color was the stock dark maroon metallic, repainted the same color. Very nice color, looked nearly black. Close to "Black Cherry". Yeah those Grand Nationals were awesome, actually faster than the Corvettes of the same year. Only came in black. And there was the limited edition GNX, only 547 were made. They're $50,000 cars nowadays, if you can find one. Here was my Monte SS, real SS. The rally stripes were removed when it was repainted dark maroon. Those aren't the stock wheels, they came with the car. I still have the stock Monte rally wheels sitting next to the Z. My head did that to the windshield from the driver's seat. Probably lucky to walk away alive from that, just a broken collarbone, bruised rib, and cuts to the forehead. And a broken heart haha. I think the solid metal helped a lot, as some modern cars would've been in much worse shape. Hit a concrete divider going 45 mph. I loved that car, the bad thing is they attract the wrong kind of attention, lots of thugs like them, and they are stolen a lot. Cops also profile people in them. The Z is actually funner and seems to get better appreciation and attention on the roads. The later ones (87-88) had a computer controlled carburetor, which was a pain. I ended up removing all of the sensors and computer, since my Service Engine light was always on, which made the computer go into default mode which made it a dog. Just used an Edelbrock carb and HEI non CC distributor, and plugged the holes left from the sensors. Ran much better after that.

Cool, I'll check out your car. I've been rear ended several times in other cars, got some decent whiplash one time, I couldn't even turn my neck for awhile. My old classic that is gone now, 87 Monte SS, was rear ended pretty good (I was actually the front car out of 3, someone rear ended the guy behind me, who got pushed into me). Probably both their faults. But it had a good bumper and I fixed it. Not the case for Z's. Especially 240z/ 240z bumpers. While the 280z bumpers are much better, they're so low that many cars, especially trucks or SUVs, would hit the tail light panel anyways. I had a few other topics here lately to help address this issue: I just added an inexpensive but great LED third brake light that sticks to the window (connect to your stock brake wire). I also upgraded to Sylvania ZEVO 1157 LED brake/tail bulbs, and they work great. They have a different design than most LEDs, as they utilize the stock reflector. Also added white LEDs to the license plate light. Honestly, I could care less if someone rear ends my DD. As long as they don't injure me too much. But a lot of classics (Z's included), it's usually pretty clear it's not your average everyday car. Especially with my "Husker" vanity plates "76 Z". And I do keep clearance in front, drive defensively, etc... The cameras are a great idea. I think a lot of cars in Russia have them, maybe it's required? Lots of youtube videos of accidents and whatnot are in Russia since it's all recorded. And I bet it does help, notifying the driver behind that everything is recorded. Heck, maybe even installing a "fake" globe camera would help, like lots of stores use. (I was at a gas station last week that had these "Cameras" mounted the HVAC ductwork... highly unlikely they're real hahaha. As for the actual braking system, mine sucked for awhile. I just went ahead and got a new master cylinder, remanufactured booster, new calipers, new pads, new shims, and new shoes. Bled it good. I don't like to stop on a dime, but I will if need be. I do all my own work so it was about $300 for a nearly complete brake upgrade. The stock brakes, working properly, should stop a stock Z very well. My other favorite is to get swole like I used to be and roll without a shirt. Then you really can get out of your car at the light and intimidate the hell outta the idiots. I've done some crazy stuff in the past when people tail gate me, tried to relax a little. Nebraska was just ranked 15th worst state for road rage. Guy was shot and killed last week. Which is a shame, since our traffic really never gets as bad as some cities. you can usually get across town here is 20 min or less. Rush hour is like an hour maximum, in the winter with snow. Also, as in one of my other posts, I'd love to get the flaming exhaust (spark plug) and just freaking melt their front bumper. Not my fault my old car has "hiccups". Hahah I'm bad I know. But this Z really is more than just a car to me, done so much to it and it's really been the sole motivation to keep on during tough times. At the same time, I do see a lot of cars also give me lots of room at lights, some people get it. Whenever I see a classic or "special interest" car, I try to get behind them so I can give them room. I'm sure they appreciate it, I know I really appreciate it when I see a car give me room as well in the Z. One good tip I have, that might not work as well in a low Z, is if for some reason I'm clearly going to rearend someone, or if someone might rear end me, is to just pull off the road into the grass or whatever. I've even hopped a curb and broken a ball joint in my old S10 to avoid it. Z's are too low though. Maybe playing very loud rap music, like DMX, might help. Ya never know what a thug will do haha. Or, if the DMV will approve it, I've thought of some "interesting" vanity plates for this issue, including: FELON ZUI KILLAH INMATE PSYCHO TEMPER SUICIDE 666 GANGSTA and the list goes on. The DMV acts like they can restrict plates, which they can. But I've seen many "state issued" non custom plates that either include the numbers "420" (marijuana), "666", VAG 411 (really? must be a vanity....) I get the Husker Vanity plates because our standard plates in Nebraska usually suck. Last time we had a yellow mockingbird. Now we got that guy that is jerking off (the sower). It was on national news and comedy shows. I'm not a big Husker fan honestly. And while I might be a jerking off fan (sorry), I don't want it on my friggin plates. We have like 8 different vanity plate options now. $70 a year for what I got. Not too bad, you gotta pick your priorities. And my Z is at the top of my list. This is our standard issue plate.... And here is the Husker one, pretty sweet I think. Hard to read since the background is too bright, but I don't care if cops have trouble. LOL. Even though the Huskers have sucked lately. I'm bout to use my athletic eligibility and run circles round em. I can be really fast when huge dudes are chasing me.

Cool, thanks Dennis! I received mine today and installed it- I also ordred 2 more of the same ones from China for $5 each/free shipping as spares. The upside is they are exactly the same, downside is the shipping time could be a month. Took me most of the evening though, lots of breaks since it's been mid 90's all month here, which is very rare this time of year in Omaha. We have VERY hot and humid summers as well as brutally cold and snowy winters (which the Z doesn't see). As the amazon reviews state, the mounting tape is crap. I had to scratch off the mounting tape and use 3M emblem tape, as it fell off the window within a few minutes. It is adjustable (loosen screws on side and rotate mounts), which is great for the angle of the Z glass. Kind of expected this. Ran the wire under the trim and grounded to one of the shock tower screws. Had to add wire length to both wires, as they're like 22". Not long enough. The wire is very thin, smaller gauge than anything my hardware store had. Used butt connectors/elec tape and used wire strippers to "clamp" them good. My Chilton manual wasn't accurate on the wiring: I had a 50/50 shot of getting the brake wire right: a green with white stripe and a green with yellow stripe (and obviously the black ground). I guessed wrong. The brake wire is the Green with yellow stripe for an early 1976 280z (build date 9/75). I used those "quick taps". I like them. Had to use pliers to snap them closed. 40 year old wiring is hard. Lights up just as bright as the ZEVO LED's, and you can position it with louvres so it is mostly visible. Some angles will block it, but it glows pretty nicely. The 32 LED 11" model is about the right size for a Z. The LEDs look good, close enough together to look stock. Great subtle and removable addition to a Z. As for the wiring, well I had to splice the stock brake wire, but I see it as a permanent upgrade. And mine isn't mint original anyway. This specific item is highly recommended by me. I will get pics soon, the Z is looking pretty good.

Another member on here has and recommended this specific one. I started a new thread in Electrical last week about the "Third Brake Light". For now I have no choice but to go the cheap route, it will be better than nothing. Didn't you just say that you got a "cheap ebay unit"? Which one did you go with? I will report back with some pics regarding the day brightness. Cars have used "regular" LEDs for years as the third brake light. My DD 1999 Tahoe has a similar (stock) setup for the third brake light, as do other cars. It's the only LED's on the car, and it has worked for a long time now.

I am also awaiting my ebay third brake light (upon the advice of a member) that sticks to the rear glass. Several sizes are available, I got the 11" 32 LED version. I have the louvre on my hatch. I got those "T tap" elec connectors. the mounts swivel so you can position it. I actually ordered 3 of them, 1 from the US for $10 so I can get it soon, and then 2 for $5 each as spares, since you cannot easily replace the bulbs. Should be a great addition.

For anyone who has been on the fence about LEDs: I bought some Sylvania 2357 brake/tail bulbs since they offered 25% more lumens on the hi (brake) setting, but I didn't notice much difference. So I headed to Walmart and picked up the Sylvania ZEVO LED 1157R for $20 (2 bulbs). They advertise a "lifetime warranty" on the package, and they plug right into the stock bulb housing. I've been skeptical of LEDs, even though I like them and the idea, but these are designed differently. They have a shield to reflect the light onto the stock reflector instead of multiple "diodes" (square things). No pics, but I highly recommend these specific bulbs for Z's, at least the 280z. The brightness is at least the same as the 2357, which is supposed to be 40/3 candlepower (or lumens?). The difference between the tail lights and brake is good. Great red color. Also, instant on when you touch the brake. Also cheaper than the superbrightleds.com ones. I think Osram/Sylvania did great with these, realizing that most incandescent housings rely on the reflector. Thought I'd share this. And you don't need any resistors or different flashers for these. I also bought some 67/89 LED bulbs with the clear glass shield from superbrightleds.com for the license plate lights, and they are awesome. Very white light and fit into the stock housing just fine. I actually put a strip of electrical tape on the lenses to lessen their brightness. I'm not sure if I'll do LED's all around, but some wattage savings here and there will help the stock wiring and alternator a great deal. I majored in "Architectural Enginering: Lighting/Electrical in college, so you know I love lighting. https://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/67+led/ ^^Here's a link to the License Plate bulbs I got. Very nice. The stock 280z plate housing shines the light too brightly- the ground behind the car is clearly lit (even with stock bulbs). As mentioned, 2 strips of electrical tape can reduce this.