ramsesosirus

I agree with all of the above; Mine would barely idle without dying until I cleaned all the electrical bullet connectors and made sure all vacuum hoses were either connected or capped. Also, mine later began running rough and sometimes dying when hot. Turned out to be a clog in the fuel tank that seemed to settle after warming up? Had a shop cut it open, clean it, remove the stock "screen" that gets clogged/rusted. Nice thing is mine (all Z's?) have a drain plug in the gas tank. That's some good engineering foresight. Could also be fuel pump or solenoid?

I thought I'd share this mod that I did, I really like it. I didn't like the look of my front air dam without lights in the cutouts. But I didn't want too much going on in the front. So I custom-hacked a set of fog lights to work as the turn signals. And then used a 240z grille to replace the stock grille and the stock turn signal locations. I like it

Thanks, I looked and I do see where that one will go; Spend about 6 hours on the today, here's what I learned: The cotter pins on the auto trans shift linkage are a pain. I used the generic door bushings to replace the missing (worn away) plastic ones. It actually shifts and stays in park now. Which is very good. I put on a new rubber boot for the throttle linkage. The best way is to pop the ball off in the engine compartment, and then just unscrew the whole accelerator pedal (3 screws) and get at the 7 mm nut from outside the car. The ball fits through the firewall hole FYI. A lot easier than trying to get at it under the dash, I don't see how it could be done....

Great info siteunseen.... I had thought to just take the 3 from the vacuum tank to the 3 bundled going to the firewall... However, your comment made me realize that would do no good: The vacuum tank needs a source of vacuum to store it! Some pics from now: (stock '76 Z automatic trans. Using the stock '76 intake manifold on the '78 or '79 N47 head) Showing situation by the vacuum can (passenger side) And here is the situation on the Driver's Side: I should mention the white vacuum fittings/connectors were added by me to make sure all hoses were plugged when driving 3 years ago. They are probably not correct FYI. Basically I have 4 unused vac tubes on this side. 2 from the engine (from the can thing and the trans nipple) and 2 from the firewall. And here are the actual heat shields I was referring to, can't seem to find any mounting points by the Brake MC. Thanks

Thanks for the replies, some good info. I think I will try to drill the bolt out on the exhaust. I successfully did the same to an S10 starter bolt. The vacuum hoses aren't labeled, just 3 bundled together from the firewall. And there are 3 coming from the vacuum can/tank. So as long as they are just HVAC related, it will be ok for now. As for the heat shields, I'm pretty sure they were parts I removed from the 76. I disassembled 3 years ago thinking I would remember. I didn't anticipate it being 3 years though.... haha The actual pieces are just like this image, but one is the reverse of this one, not exact, but same general shape. (there are two total). I'll look again and see if they will work by the PCV or brake area. Thanks for the feedback; Oh and any advice on the auto trans issue? Of not going into park? Linkage most likely?

Thanks sweaty! I'm very excited to be working on it again after 3 years of "life" issues... This will be the second "classic" car I've partially restored, and the first engine replacement I've ever done. Had an 87 Monte Carlo SS for 12 years, then wrecked it. I loved that car, but it attracted too much of the wrong attention (gangsters like those G-Bodies). But it was a "Hot Rod" to me, and I learned and did so much work to that car. More than I'd care to do again... Here is the aftermath: lucky to be alive. My head did that to the windshield. At least I didn't brain my damage. Haha Drag files here to attach, or choose files... Insert other me

Hi all, I used to be a member here, but had to sign up again since I was unable to recall my login after 2 years... anyway... I threw a rod and put a hole in the block 2 or 3 years ago. 76 280z, auto trans. Sourced a used 78 or 79 L28 motor. I have a few misc. questions that I have been unable to find answers for utilizing searches: Where do these smaller heat shields go? There are 2 of them that are nearly identical, and they are not the ones under the intake. (See photo) I have 3 vacuum lines bundled together coming from the firewall, passenger side (asssuming HVAC). Do these go to the vacuum tank can (white bottle)? Anyone have good pictures of their engine bays? The motor I am installing has a broken exhaust stud, the furthest towards the front of the car near thermostat. It is flush with the head. Should I even attempt to fix this? Any advice? All other studs are intact. Speaking of which, how do I tighten/insert a stud, there are no flats on them? I know an auto is less desirable, but it worked fine and actually squealed the tires upon the 1-2, shift, so I'm leaving it for now (I have a 5 speed for a later conversion). The shifter was always kind of "loose". Now it will not go into park. The lever moves into park, I removed the cover plate to verify the shift selector is all the way forward and i the "notch", but I can still push the car around. I assume it is a problem with the linkage since it did work properly before. Any good advice or pictures of the auto linkage and how to remedy this? Also having trouble getting the passenger side engine mount to line up. The other side is good, and it is bolted to the trans. ?? Need to replace a leaky rear brake cylinder (I think) also. I miss the sound of the car, as well as the scent that came factory with the car. I'm talking about the exhaust fumes. I like to think of it as a cologne for gear heads. "What kind of cologne are you wearing???" It's called Datsun Fume' I do own (and read... ok I just look at the pictures...) a Chilton's manual and have the FSM downloaded and available. And a pic of the car... not too bad of shape for 40+ years old!! Some rusty floors, a little on the door, a little on the frame: the usual. I installed the 240z bumpers. Rear louver. I kind of like it with and without the louver, but it does keep the heat out, and the paint under the louver brackets is not great, so it stays for now! Not sure where the wheels came from or what they are. I don't think they're stock. But I like them for now.

Well Spent last night getting the crossmember out. One of the bolts was nearly frozen, I swore I was going to shear it but I got it out OK. Tomorrow I will borrow a 17mm wrench from work to get the mount off. The rubber had separated on the bottom. THe strap on top of the diff looks OK, but is there something I can spray on it to preserve/protect the rubber while I'm at it? These are NLA, can I possibly use like a leather belt up there??? I also have a new throttle boot and see that the accelerator side has threads for the ball to come off; Does the ball just pop off of the stud?? Just pull it off?? Dont want to break anything... Hopefully this fixes my clunk, if not I'll get the mustache bar bushings, which I plan to get anyways. Thanks!

Hey all Just got my tank back from the radiator shop, fixed the dying problem ( they boiled, cut out the internal "strainer", and sealed); Tranny is on it's way south though; I just bought a locking gas cap from a guy on ebay. I thought it would be extra insurance since i just spent so much time and money on my tank. Got the cap, it didn't fit. Had the BMW logo on it. As some of you may know, it will fit if you grind the tabs down slightly. It wont fit at all without some modification. Well I ground it down and got it to fit, but it won't lock. I mean the key works but I can still get it off pretty easily with it "locked". Has anyone found a locking gas cap that actually works??? I've seen the "REX" one on ebay, does that one work? Any others??? Thanks

Isn't the tank to pump hose 1/2" I had a 1/2 inch adapter for the G3 and had a hard time getting it on, so it must be 1/2 inch or 7/16; But the vapor lines are 5/8"? I thought it only needed to be fuel hose behind the pump, and FI hose after the pump, where there is pressure? You're gonna sell your cars sblake??

What is the capacity of a 76 280z gas tank? ie: how much gas is in the tank, so I can buy jugs for it?? I tried running it but it dies so I can't take it out too far or fast. Thanks for the tips! Yes, I always wear eyewear (should get goggles) under my car now. I once got super glue and gasoline in my eyes, not a fun experience either time. A hood or stocking cap helps too, I had a piece of rust almost fall in my ear last week; What can I do to replace the vent lines that may break? Do they attatch to a steel line? Sizes? I know MSA sells them but that is way too much for me. I plan to have it boiled at a shop, I do ALL my own car work, I will even swap my trans, but I'll leave this to a shop. Too messy, hazardous waste, etc.. for me. Plus I just want it done, I don't have much time as I have college finals in 3 weeks. Can't screw up in college trying to get the car running!

My signals didn't work until I plugged in the hazard switch and changed the fuses. My car is the same as yours, 76 280z automatic (good choice!). After I plugged the hazards in, they worked. Just make sure everything in the console are is plugged in. Make sure you plugged the RIGHT connector into the hazards, there were 2 similar ones on mine! HTH, Good luck

Hey guys Well upon inspection of the G3 filter I put in a week ago, with a new pump, and the noises/stalling of my 76 Z, I think the tank needs to be cleaned/sealed. A local radiator shop will do this for about $125, so I'm going to do it. How do I remove the tank, in order? How do I get to the filler neck, and how is it attatched? I will get some new 1/2 inch fuel line for the feed line. What size hose can I use for the: return line vent lines Thanks!

Thanks Arne. About the trans, that's kind of what I suspected. The donor was a car at U-pull-it, no way to test it out. Got it for $100 though, so a good gamble. I can't decide if I want the auto or stick, but can't afford to have professional work done, and I've had bad experience when having my Monte SS tranny rebuilt, never did run right... My best bet now is to just swap it over and rebuild one of them later myself if I get the tools. I have a spare TH350 to tinker with. I've heard the mainshaft/countershaft nut likes to loosen on the older 5 speeds. If this happens, I lose 5th and Reverse, but 1-4 are fine??? I can deal with that, this car isn't that hard to push if you watch where you park. If I order a clutch kit, I need to make sure all the parts are for a 280z right, including PP,Clutch, TO,pilot, MT starter, and TO sleeve. I will need to make or find a metal line to the slave from the master. Donor car's broke. DO I NEED TO HAVE THAT metal clip thats welded to the frame, where the rubber hose meets the metal one? Or can it just be routed out of the way and be fine? Thanks

Well guys I thought I had fixed my problems, but nope. Automatic trans is leaking BAD and shifting is erratic, along with clunking. I plan to swap the 79 ZX 5 speed I have. is there any way to tell if the trans works before installing? It shifts through all gears; Will I have to cut the floor for the shifter? 76 280z. I've read sometimes you cut and sometimes you don't have to. I ask bc I won't have power when doing this swap. Would have to rent a generator or use elbow grease. I installed a G3 filter when putting new pump on to protect the pump in case there was crap in the tank. After 1 full tank there is a small amount of particles (rust?) in the filter, but not clogged or anything. How much rust is enough to cause problems? Its hard to tell if the hesitation/lurching is from the tank or the trans. I also noticed that the G3 is getting air from the fuel tank. Even if I move the filter around, it still sucks air bubbles from the tank, even with full tank, how is this possible??? I was ready to drive the Z, now I get to swap the trans and spend more money that I don't have, today is not a good day. Already did the fuel pump, regulator, G3 filter, cap, rotor, coil, plugs twice, front calipers and pads, and oil. Man that oil was DIRTY! I had to pound a screwdriver in the filter to remove it. The paper part of the filter was real black. Good thing I changed it. So right now I'm down to a few things that may need attention: Transmission Fuel Tank Fuel Injectors Valves Brakes need more power, they go to the floor but stop fine (bad booster?) BTW, unless my tank is gummed up, these EFI pumps are pretty loud, huh? My old one and this brand new one are both about the same.

Do I need a dashpot for my 76 z if I swap from auto trans to manual? Or can I rig a spring on the throttle? From what I've read, the dashpot does something with the throttle release,etc... Thanks

http://www.oreillyautoparts.com/EW3/DisplayTheParts.do?categoryIndex=6&didSearchFor=Fuel+Pump&vehicle=1976NISSAN280Z6-2754%202.8L&bid=1238178470011&cycleCount=839 There's the link to the pump; I assumed Delphi made it; I've read bad things about Carter when I googled it. It's down to deciding between the Delphi and the Bosch, about 110 dollar difference. Fuel damper should be fine if its not leaking, right? Thanks sblake. I found a pic elsewhere and it looks just like the one on my car now. Also looks like the airtex. I know the stock one is a little bigger diameter. I plan to order one tonight.

Well I've pretty much ruled out getting the Airtex/Master pump since I've heard bad things about them. The Bosch one is 275, a little too much for me. The Delphi one is about 160, so it is a middle ground. I checked my old pump in the car and it does not appear to be a stock one, so a rebuilt one/send back core isn't possible either. Anyone used Delphi? I know they are GM's supplier for many parts (although I believe they went out of business a few years ago). The O'Reilly site lists Delphi as "actual OE part" which sounds good. I am hesitant to get the Bosch in case I have other problems (fuel tank, etc...) that would make it go out. I plan to put a new regulator in and a G3 filter back there between tank and pump while I am at it. The G3 will fit in the stock fuel line, right? It looks pretty big (from the tank to pump). G3 has 3/8" connectors. Thanks, any advice is appreciated! And I know sblake suggested OEM pump, which I what I would go with if money was no issue, and I take great stake in his advice and experience. his advice is what leads me away from the Airtex one. I just wondered about Delphi specifically. THANKS, I will be ordering a pump/reg today so I have it next week.

Just started driving my car, i love it, but am having problems; 76 280z auto trans. 180,000 miles. DAY 1: drove car for 3-4 consecutive hours without incident. Car is quick. DAY 2: after car warms up, fuel pump whine becomes louder ( i dont know how loud its supposed to be); Car starts to hesitate, cut out under throttle. RPMS drop with hesitation. Exhaust may backfire out of tail pipe. I though fuel pump, but backfire suggests ignition, since fuel is present? I googled this, and came up with ignition module, or somehitng HEAT SENSITIVE like a transistor??? I'm thinking: Ignition coil, Ignition Module (EI box?), pick up coil(s),? Car used to spew black smoke, i fixed that by cleaning all electrical connectors. no smoke now. Car will warm up in 15 minutes (temp gage goes to middle), but problem doesn't start until car has been running AT warm for 20+ minutes, then i pretty much have to nurse it home. The car does has a intermittant backfire at part throttle, but not really an issue, as I just have to push the gas harder. Any way to change transisitors in the Ig module w/o a new one? I cant afford more stuff, I still need to fix the brakes; Can I test the pickup coils, EI box, etc..??? The 76 260 has two "control boxes", right? the ECU and the ignition. Is the heat problems related to the position of the box, possibly? ie can the box be relocated to inside car of in front of grille, somewhere where there is less heat?? This is probabaly a part that is heat sensitive from being old, I know resistance rises with temperature rises. Thanks for any input, I want to keep driving this car but it needs to be pretty reliable (for a 33 year old car anyways). BTW Car has brand new battery installed 2 days ago. The outside weather was the same both days, app 70 degrees F , sunny, some breeze (basicall super nice driving weaher). I plan to test fuel pressure this weekend. How loud is the pump supposed to be? Its not super loud, but a decent whine from right rear when warm.

Has anyone ever gotten a ticket for no bumpers?? I guess it would be harder to get one with the rear finished as opposed to JUST removing it, leaving the holes...

Thanks yellowfever! That antenna in the first shot is really tall!! Luckily it looks like it retracts; Well I think I might remove the front for now, since I usually stop pretty far back in my nice cars (due to rear end experiences) and try to fiberglas over the indentions under the headlight buckets. I also plan to put some sort of grille in the front to cover all the open areas. Home depot has some stuff I might use. My Z already has a lower air dam with brake ducts (which i filled with fog lights), so it will look good (if that huge bumper wasn't blocking it) your butt looks really good (the car's anyways ) in that final shot. Did you just cover up the stock holes/etc.. or did you extend the bottom a little bit (closer to the ground)? That is what mine will look like someday in the rear, I might just keep the rear bumper for now since there seems to be a decent amount of work in removing it and dealing with the holes properly. Also I plan to drive it daily this spring and summer so I want to be protected in the rear. Thanks! BTW Is the opening at the front of the car less than 3 ft. by 3ft? (pic 2) The stuff I was gonna get comes in that size.

If I remove the front and rear, or just the front bumper from my 76 Z, will there be a noticeable increase in gap in the wheel well between the tire and wheel well? ( will the car rise up without the 40 lbs on each end?) Also, does the rear quarter panel on 76 280 z have a hole for the bumper rubber the screw into, like the 240s and the 78 280z? Or is it smooth under that huge bumper?? Also, I def want the bumperless look, but have been rear ended twice in the past 3 years. Once in my daily Camry, which was OK, and once in my near classic SS, which I was lucky only damaged the bumper and exhaust. The way they look, the earlier bumpers wouldn't really protect anything more than none, and the 78 is pretty low anyways. Anyone been rear ended with the 76/78 bumper, the earlier bumper, or no bumper??? Thanks

I had this trouble at the junkyard when removing handles. You have to use pliers on the platic clip and pull the rod out. Not really a trick, keep trying and you'll get it.