Packerz

Sorry...Z Store. I was just too excited!

Y’all are absolutely correct, Motorsport/ZCarSource does have the KONI s and they are the complete strut! Ordered them from Anthony, today! They have about 30 fronts and rears for late-260s and all 280s. I must have contacted the wrong vendor... how??? thanks again to everyone have a Z day😉 Doug/ PackerZ

Hello EuroDat. I contacted Motorsports and they do not have any KONI struts for Z cars and do not know of any potential source for Tokico or KONI struts for a 280Z... Alas, my search continues with total frustration on finding any remedy to my problem. Help!!! Z community! Doug

Are there any type of higher performance struts for 280Z available anymore? Need to replace an Illumina strut and they are nowhere to be found...same with KONI’s and Bilstein. KYBs are useless with my lowering springs... no suppliers have anything and “parts wanted” forum hasn’t produced any leads Please respond Classic Z contact link/directly at: dbparker54@yahoo.com. Thanks to any help!! Doug P.

View Advert 280Z performance struts Hello all, I have a blown rear Illumina strut on my 1977280. As we all know, I am unable to obtain warranty replacement or new stock. I would really appreciate if you have, or know of someone who might have,: 1-Illumina strut, or 4-wheel set of rear Illumina/KONI/high performance struts for lowered spring application. I will pay well. Please contact me directly at: dbparker54@yahoo.com or 727/ 804-8678 thank you! Doug Parker Advertiser Packerz Date 01/14/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280Z

Thank you Steve and Zed! I will ask tech to read this while testing distributor pickup coil This is probably what he was suggesting possible distributor/ignition module issues...without car to actually test. (Would need to drive 25+ miles of traffic to his shop) will have it towed; It happened twice and I got away with emergency shoulder pull off!...Not going to push my luck!!!! Thanks again guys. Will post results if you feel results would be helpful to others? Doug P.

Steve, this is a stock OEM distributor with approx 80k miles on car. Are there any issues (heat related or sporadic in nature) with original distributors that could result in complete/near-instant engine shutdown during warmer weather drives (2 separate times)? Could wear/weakness in optical components or some other part of distributor be an issue?

I have a 1977 280Z. I have a question to the forum: Are there any weak points of the electronic distributors in this car that would cause engine to stop/loss all power suddenly and then restart and run well after a few minutes and a few cranks. I have a new Accel coil, new ignition relay car runs excellent (until this event occurred two-times on short drives this year). mechanic said possible distributor (weak optical sensor?) issue during warm/hot weather heat under hood. Said this was not totally uncommon. Is there a common wear/weakness issue for this electronic-model distributor??

Zed, I now have 5-wire relay and two-spade terminal OPS. Now ready to connect relay. four-wires (disregarding black (non-used ground?) What color wires go to which incoming signal Do They connect as: Red= to cool ballast? Blue=butt connect to existing oil pressure gauge wiring (yellow/ black or blue stripe wire coming from Horizontal OPS spaded terminal) through current bundle from firewall then to AFM and then connecting to AFM pin # 36? White= out from relay internal switching directly to pin #39 Now; “mystery yellow”... does this wire connect to Vertical spade connector of OPS with new/created wiring? If not, where to/from...where does Vertical spade go to? Trying to simplify by color to signal input to finish this posting. You guys are SO patient with my best efforts to understand all this for myself! Doug By vertical blade/wiring to “switch”- do you mean to relay then to AFM? I am puzzled by vertical spade “switch” circuit of OPS ..:which/what switch is on Oil Pressure Circuit? Are vertical and horizontal plug wires joined in any way? Trying NOT to make this complicated but trying to understand wire connections only! Please; Forgive my lack of knowledge. Doug

By vertical blade/wiring to “switch”- do you mean to relay then to AFM? I am puzzled by vertical spade “switch” circuit of OPS ..:which/what switch is on Oil Pressure Circuit? Trying NOT to make this complicated but trying to understand wire connections only! Please; Forgive my lack of knowledge. Doug

EuroDat, Some Confusion- current wire will be converted to OPS with spade attach. How ‘bout other spade terminal? Can either of the two spade terminals be used to connect either wire (Relay or gauge alert) or is there one specific terminal for a specific wire? Doesn’t OPS unit ground itself when screwed into block?

Last question folks ?! If I sourced/used a 78-ZX Oil Pressure Sender (with two spade terminals)...altering the current (“bullet) connection to “spade” on one of the terminals. Could I then just run new wire from the other spade terminal to the new relay? Or would it be better to keep using existing (77 280) and “tap“ off of the single (“bullet”) wire to relay? Any pros or cons or just option/choice? I plan to run relay wire across front of engine to coil/relay area. This is last question! Sincerely thanks to all great input and appreciate y’all’s patience with me!!! Doug

Would anyone have the recommended Bosch/Bosch style relay model number for this procedure. Or will just any 4 or 5post relay work? Is there a specific amperes requirement to open and close relay? 30/40 amp OK? shouldn’t I try to locate an all-weather relay and harness since I Think I understand this will be an under-hood location near coil/AFM? I think this is my last Question. Thanks all for patience and help!!! Doug P.

Beautiful (and really understandable even for me!)?. Does “ new” diagram eliminate relay wire #87a shown in first set of diagrams?. #86 flows constant 12v (coil ballast next to AFM=good location!) to AFM pin # 36.... couldn’t figure out what #87a was “spliced on 87’s post for. Again thank you!!! Doug

EuroDat, please forgive my lack of auto wiring knowledge! ? Does the 78-ZX Oil Pressure Sending Unit have two yellow/black stripe (positive?) leads and one (thicker) black ground wire exiting the sender? The thicker Black wire ring grounded to engine block? I’m having difficulty getting from 1st diagram to 2nd with only single Y/Black stripe wire. My 77 wiring harness only has one Y/Black stripe output wire into wiring harness (then bridged to Pin 36 & 39 AFM?). Is Y/Black stripe currently sending power (Into Fuel Pump Relay wiring then exiting out onto the AFM (bridged-both positives?) pins into internal meter relay? Why bridge...to get two positive pins out of one wire? Where would (what later model color wires) would go into AFM harness to pins 36&39 what is Figure 3 ? I don’t see either 36 or 39 wires into/from 85-87&30 wires and relationship of This diode diagram to OPSU Through to AFM... Your diagram is great!...this just my own confusion on one/two wire conversion! ??Doug P.

WoW. Thank you! EuroDat !!! I can follow this and I think I have a 78 oil pressure switch somewhere in my Zar parts stash. I never used it because of twin leads... maybe I was closer than I thought??. Will get a friend to show me electrical connections using this “roadmap”. Thank you, thank you. Kinda still curious why PO bridged pins to begin with. Doug P.

Just saw this...some questions remain but helps a lot! Thank you!

Thanks Zed and Grannyknot! Please excuse my confusion re: purpose of my postings.... my bad! This all is a safety issue and includes my inability to positive identify which TB and AFB I actually have... are there visual differences (obvious external and/or internal components Z/ZXT) I can identify so I can ask for assistance knowing what I truly have. Was PO using a 75-78 280ZAFM and just attaching it to ZXT TP?. Trying to understand why AFM posts are currently bridged anyway...A difference in using existing 75-78 wiring bundle connections to different TB? Could current Z wiring bundle itself be modified or totally different bundle in ZXT? If easy fix (using correct model TB/AFM) doesn’t solve issue, I will need to ask your details of have to go the route of relay tapping into alternator, alternator light or starter ...when engine stops so will fuel flow at AFB, or ideally FP itself? Or locating a correct SX TB and all component connections and wiring to 75-78 wiring bundle...or will I have same wiring issues. Sorry about my confusion!!!- Really trying to be more defined in my confusion and find best resolution Doug P.

OK Yes, stroker has all normal 3.1 mechanical/engine mods also with Stage 2 cam, headers and lightweight flywheel. The car runs and operates perfectly ...just the fuel pump “ON” issue. Don’t understand why the pin bridge And if the ZX AFM requires this bridge to operate FP or a simple unbridge remedy...? Is there a (Ford) fuel line part that has FP auto-shutoff at engine stop? sorry about my lack of knowledge at this last Item/issue to become Regular driver- Fully Safe! Thanks!!! Doug

Thanks Zed! Is replacing 280Z TB and AFM with ZX models common swap/upgrade? Why would PO bridge the two pins? Any good reason, or a requirement, if ZX components used? If not, can’t I just unbridgeable the pins and go on down the road? Thanks again! Doug

Hello all! I have a 77280 with a “stroker” modified engine. PO replaced stock Throttle Body (with ZX?/larger intake?)and apparently the AFM (To fit the TB? current AFB has fuel pump “pins” “bridged” thus creating FP engagement w/ key “ON” rather than mechanical w/ engine and starter. Before I get “flamed”?..I recognize danger in wreck...this why desire to replace back to starter FP energize! Can I just unbridge pins and return to factory electrical wiring energize? Replace AFM? Must I replace AFM, and TB, to stock-will all wiring be back to stock, etc.? Plug and play with stock part(s)? Thank you, all!

For what it’s worth... to anyone replacing their S30 power antenna, and wishes to use the factory wiring all the way back to the rear fender, here is what I’ve found. If you are using the replacement Harada MX-1 or MX-2; they come with a toggle switch with bridged red and green wires at the diagonal top and bottom corner posts and single black and single red leads off the middle posts. Our factory wiring has three leads from the radio harness (to the original antenna toggle switch and running back to the antenna power). The solid blue is connected to the single red wire (fuse box/ignition switch 12v power) black to body ground. The blue/white stripe is connected to the bridged red lead and the blue/red stripe goes to bridged green lead. This makes the new antenna powered up, down and hold position via toggle. Check the orientation of the toggle unit before mounting (dash, console etc.) to verify “up” toggle is toward top of switch. Just flip 180 if it’s inverted. Thanks for all responses!

Thank you for the reply Jarvo2! What I am trying to do is connect (I believe Harada) aftermarket antenna switch and supplied toggle switch. PO eliminated factory antenna switch and toggle and used this newer setup but making all connections through factory antenna control wires. May I post picture of newer toggle switch that best shows the three connection wires that will need to be (re) connected to the three existing factory antenna switch wires...solid blue, blue/white and blue/red. I need to identify functions of each factory wire to correctly ID connection to new switch. I hope this helps anyone reading this post. Again, thank you! Anyone?

OK. Update on Harada antenna to factory antenna wiring. Definitely established power wire a solid blue and is connected to single (non-bridged) red wire! This leaves only the question of the other (2) wires connection. There are two wires(bridged) from the toggle switch red & green and (2) factory antenna wires blue/white and blue/red stripes. Does anyone know if each color has to march specific connecting wire or can red, green and striped leads be be connected in any order ie: can I connect blue/white to either green OR red? Will this effect antenna operation in any way as apparently the bridging of toggle switch leads tells antenna to extend or retract as lever is moved up or down...it doesn’t’t seem like the “up or down” function is controlled by a factory, two color-specific, wiring order. Last question in this post, I swear! Please just share this last answer, hasn’t anyone else used a Harada aftermarket antenna and wired it to factory antenna wires? I am ignoring lead from head unit as it just complicates the whole picture and seems to be redundant and of no real value. Thanks y’all!!! Doug

OK ya got me on that? “Calling for angels”. I really hope somebody sees this, reads what I’m trying to do and can provide a direct answer....”the blue goes to ______ The blue/white goes to....The blue/red connects with the _____ toggle lead etc. I just can’t combine the schematic, you very kindly supplied, and the factory wiring diagram so I really would appreciate if anyone has already done this or can solve mystery connections from info/pics supplied. Help please?. Thanks for the assistance provided to me so far!!! Doug