RS02

Thought I'd chime in on some minor info. MSD ignition boxes uses some BIG capacitors to filter input voltage and charge the coil. The constant 12v wire will spark when you first connect it to a voltage sorce.

Have not posted much over the years but I am scrambling to make it. Trailering the car from Ohio. Spent 5 years working on the car with no finishi line in sight so Imma just slap it together and get her to pikes peak on her 50th birthday. Still got paint and final assembly to go. I'll not be sleeping for the next few...

Well it's just my simple brain trying to put a reason to this madness lol! I thought that since they didn't change the hand brake position maybe they just didn't think about the rails when setting them up. Now that you've cleared this up looks like there's 4 different part numbers for the locking side rails. Take it easy on remembering things, Last time I tried to think BAD things happend!😁

Well I welded in my passenger seat mount tubes using the driver seat as a template because of the rollbar tube behind the seat... Guess I'll have to modify them again to put the passenger seat in or live with a slightly forward seat position on the passenger side...

That's interesting. I would've thought the RHD cars would just allow the passenger to go back further and keep the driver in place. Turns out all of them allows the driver to go back all the way but not the passenger.

Different seats. They are both the locking side (one with the handle). The other rail is just a slide with no locks no stops.

I was tearing into my old seats to take the rails out and fit them to my bucket seat. But then I noticed that the passenger seat rail doesn't slide back all the way. With the car being 50 years old I thought they must have just jammed. But after I lubed them up and slid them back and forth a bit they still refuse to go back to the rearmost notch. At this point I started taking them off the seat and was going to take them apart and figure out what is going on. However, after I spent 20 minutes looking at them I realized that one of the rails may not be intended to slide back all the way! I then searched around the internet for similar informations but didn't see any. So I decided to put it here and see what you guys think. Here's the rails in question. They are stamped LH80 and RH20. I presume they are LEFT HAND and RIGHT HAND. what the number is for I have no idea. The LH has the handle coming out to the left and I think should be on the Left hand seat. LH can go back all the way taking the rearmost notch while RH can only go till there's 3 notch still left and gets stopped. The reason that I believe they are intended to move back different amounts is that the little indentations are different on them. These sliders work by having two slider carriges in them. They appear to hold one cylindrical roller in the center and some balls on the outside of the rails. They get stopped by the indentations pressed into the rails. This is where the location of the indentations come in. Here's the rails side by side for comparasion. they are clearly pressed in different locations. What's more, The RH one has an extra one visible on the seat side of the sliders. These appear to trap the roller in between the rails and prevent them from sliding back further. So, can any of you helpful guys confirm this by going out and sliding your seats all the way back and comparing them? Does this still apply to RHD cars? What is the reason for limiting the travel on the RH seat? (My theory is that nissan was worried that if you slide it all the way back you may not be able to reach the throttle on a RHD car, maybe they think the western market are taller and this was not a concern?) Sorry for the dodgy pictures and the dodgy english. I'm lucky my profession is mechanics and not journalism. lol.

Yes I believe that is just a switch that closes when you sit on it. I've seen them under the seat cushion.

Interesting indeed. This should be helpful to those numbers matching guys...

I wish I had a set of normal carbs... The set I have is not in working order and that's why I bought the rebello units in the first place.

I was looking at different posts on the forum and from what I can gather you are right, the spring controls the piston position, the damper controls the rate which the piston moves at. The picture was from an old article for tuning those British H2 or HS2 carbs. The stockers are not in working order. I think I might try to run without damper or even change the needles to the stock ones that I have. At this point I think I'll try with the resources I have here and see how they changes things.

This is where it causes a bit of confusion. I searched this form and found in another post that slow the rise of the piston actually richens up the mixture. The "more piston raised more fuel" method is only true when the engine is at WOT. Running no oil and light spring will actually cause the car to run bad at any other throttle position besides WOT. I am running straight SAE 20wt oil (3-in-1 small engine oil), I can lift both pistons all the way up and both dampers are working to make them rise slow and drop fast.

I believe that they have been bored out to 50mm and it came with a custom ground needle... The needle looks like quite a bit of material has been taken off when compared to the stock SUs I had lying around.

Thanks for all the input, so far I have checked float level, synced the carbs, set idle mixture, set off idle balance, The car is still too undrivable for me to really get it on the road to get it tuned right.

Well sir that diagram you posted was for a down draft carb.

Well thanks for the reply. SU carbs only have 1 circuit though. It does everything including idle.

Do you mean raise the needle by the set screw? That would mean that the idle mixture would be even richer than before right?

I've been battling with my 71 240 recently to get it running right. I spent about 4 years working on the car and the engine, and this is the first time I got it to run somewhat right. Here's what I have: freshly rebuilt L28 Flat top engine with E31 head CB performance programmable box triggering a MSD unit 230/460 cam (IIRC) "Rebello modified" carbs that I purchased from a form member a while ago. I think they are bored out to be bigger and I matched all intake ports. Zstory street header to 2.5" pipes to Zstory muffler in the back Now, here's the problem: I have installed a O2 sensor after the final merge in the header. The carbs had got a set of unknown needles that are ground down. The previous owner of the carbs told me that they were for a 3.1 stroker. When I get the car started and set the idle at 900rpm with the mixture screw 1.5 turns down, the car runs rich at around 12.5:1 afr. When I tried to drive it on the street and give it more than 1/4 throttle, the car stumbles badly and wants to die. This would indicate that the carbs are running waaaay too rich right? But, my afr gauge tells me otherwise. It keeps climbing all the way to 15. I can hear exhaust backfiring at this point. I thought that the ground down needles would make the engine run super rich off idle, but I think the engine is doing the exact opposite. So I started diagnosing: 1. I checked the timing, it's at 14 idle 34 total. 2. I checked the plugs, they are dry fouled because of the idle mixture (brand new plugs before the run). 3. I checked the carbs, they are clean inside with piston return springs and 20wt oil. 4. I checked the fuel bow with float-sync, both level are correct and remain steady when I rev the engine. 5. I checked for vacuum leaks, all vacuum ports are blocked off, only one is plumbed for MAP sensor. I am at a loss here. I have searched the internet and this very helpful form for information regarding this problem. But I haven't yet found a solution to the problem I am experiencing. How can a needle that is supposed to be super rich cause a engine that is too small for it to lean out? (Attached is the timing map)

View Advert Cylinder Head and Intake manifold for sale Late model E88 head with bigger exhaust valves. -150 obo Matching E88 intake. -30 obo The head does not come with cam towers. Only valves. It'll definitely need a makeover. It's taken off of my 71 240z and stored on a shelf. My 14 in wheels are also for sale. make an offer. Buyer pays shipping. Advertiser RS02 Date 01/20/2020 Price Category Parts for Sale

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Yes there's a RB20e and a RB20de. RB30e is the only 3.0 as far as I'm aware. Problem that I can see is mainly chamber volume because rb30e has Hemi style chambers. Would require custom pistons. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

His video and blog gave me the idea! I'm in the process of rebuilding my front suspension. As soon as I finish this car I'll look into getting a rb30e head. I can only read some of the kanji so it's hard trying to figure out how he did it... But yeah thanks for mentioning him. His my #1 source for gathering information about this swap. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I got one of their catalogs when I was in Japan and man I wish I had known them before rebuilding my engine. I'm still drooling over the JDM taillight they sell. (Not because jdm just that I think it looks better with yellow turn signals) So they are producing replacement S20 heads huh? I am still looking into getting a rb30e head to try and modify into that cross flow LY head Nissan produced. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Wow... This thread is a treasure. Gave me something to do during snowstorms here in Michigan. If any of you need some help with dodgy Chinese companies I can help clearing up things. Being a Chinese I'm not proud but I had dealt with them quite a while now. Kameari have some pretty cool products like the tensioner. Never go into their store cuz when I walked in wanting to buy a damper I ended up with a bag of stuff and an empty wallet! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Looks like the T-tops on my Z31. I believe they are the same throughout production.