RS02

I put some assembly lube on there. It says that it can be used on bearings and cam lobes. Vr1 with some redline break in lube seems like a safe choice for oil. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

So non-synthetic vr1 or even RP brake in oil? I'm using the stock cam reground by delta. Also sent the rocker arm to renew. New intake and exhaust valves and valve seats, changed the intake to later bigger valves. Nissan head gasket, Kameari timing chain and cam sprocket. Cam tower has been shimmed so the cam will not retard itself. New lash pad and checked rocker pad contact. Everything seems to be in order. Or at least what I see. Now I'm trying to find valve lift using dial indicator. The lobe kept hitting the gauge. I'll post if there's anything unusual. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

About break in oil: I'm thinking of getting Pennzoil SAE30 or 10w30 plus half bottle of redline break in oil. second change to same 10w30 and rest of the break in oil. After that dump in the VR1 synthetic. This should work, right? Also should I buy some filters beside the reusable one for breaking in? Or new filter cores?

Intermittent wiper control using the diagram on 91 civic wiper mod. Park relay is tucked under the dash. The Old intermittent relay works just fine but more adjustability is welcomed. Put it under the steering column for now. And PWM led dash light dimmer using woodworkerb's diagram. I changed all the bulbs in the dash and it's too damn bright! And lastly the center panel with some switch on it. I won't use the fuse box location as it's too small. So a few switches for launch rpm control, dash light, etc. Oh, The Grand Tour had it's final episode of the first season. Gotta wait for the next episode now... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I guess I'll get some QS oil that you're talking about. I bought a reusable filter from zcardepot that can be open and cleaned. I think that will be a good way to keep an eye on metals in engine. Acceleration and engine brake looks like the way to go. I'm installing a MSD 6al2 ignition with a optical pickup so I can limit the rpm in case I get too excited. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Oh, and a question: Do I use synthetic to break in, or switch after a couple of hundred miles? A lot of people have been breaking in their motor gentle, but a website I saw when doing research on hybridZ said hard acceleration after warmup within 20miles really settles the ring. I'm sure that I have to pull plugs, crank to get oil, start the thing and warm up and tune the carbs. But what next? Go on the streets and do hard acceleration? Or slow acceleration and engine break? Keep the rpm under 5000? Or blast it? Change oil immediately after 20mile? Or 500? What's your opinion on breaking in? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Nice. I'll keep posting as I get any new progress. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Nice. I'll keep posting as I get any new progress. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I found a website that manufactures brand new GM alternators that's somewhat customizable. I ordered one with the lower mounting tab thinner(1 inch instead of 2) they have some options for pulleys and amp range. I'll update once the unit is installed. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks! I'm working alone so it's gonna take a while to sort things out... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The phone app really screws up the order of pictures and words... Here's some pictures I took on a sunny day in autumn. Oh, and here's how you pull the front radiator support strait! . Well I guess I have to make a new one and wield it... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I posted a thread about a year ago. But I can't find it anymore. Well I was even stupider than I am now so let me just start a new one and keep this one alive. Anyway for those who don't know I'm 16 and bought a late 1971 240z with a L28 bottom end and a 73 e88 head. Now I have rebuilt the motor with a e31 head, new valvetrain, high lift cam but not long duration. Bottom end remains stock with flat top pistons. Twin SU carb bored by rebello, Zstory header and muffler, 2.5in exhaust with a resonator and a cutout right behind it. I'm still working on rewiring the car but I have put a AFR gauge in where the clock was and a knock sensor will be in the map light slot. A tenon amp and some old Sony speakers because I might need it. This is all that I can think of and body and suspension is my next objective. I have never seen the car running so I'll worry about rust later. Here's the car when I got it, tried to start but failed. Later found out there's rust on the 2nd cylinder...Pulled the motor myself, man that was a full day of grease and sweat! Disassembled and sent to machine shopmade a grill myself and paint the valve cover as I'm waiting.seat coversexhaust and parts...polish cylinderhead...new gauges wiring. Yep. Plan ahead or get messed up like me! Here's where I'm at, degreeing camshaft. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

If I remember right I bought mine for 600 from a guy who blew up his motor. Custom bored out by rebello racing with a custom grind needle in it. Comes with everything from manifold to linkage. If you can get a good used set with no vacuum leaks and no damage in floats and seals 375 is a fair price. Fully rebuild one will cost 700+ if you send it to Ztherapy.

I was wondering about the same problem! I'm rebuilding my l28 for street use. I want to go for the double pulley power bond. I guess we'll find out if it works. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I was rewiring mine so I just put a four terminal kill switch where the cigarette lighter was. Kills everything include alternator. Just in case I need it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hello from Michigan! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

IMO these devices all depends on a large number of users. The more user the more useful the item is. For a vehicle GPS is the way to go.

I would take it 10 month ago... Now I got one and can't afford another :(.

Sonny I'm very sorry to hear about your accident. But I'm interested about your parts. This is my first build so some extra won't hurt. Anyway can you make a list so everyone understand what value and volume they're looking at? I think this might be more efficient than sending emails to everyone : ).

Maybe it's me but MSA has been hard to communicate plus they sent a set of 6 exhaust valve seats and one is in different dimension.

First of all thanks for all your replies. I think the "emission theory" is probably right. The unit is connected to 12v ign and speedo. the other wire does not output anything when 12v is applied to ign. So I stripped the wiring and found the mystery wire goes into engine bay. I'm not sure about this car's history. But is seems like someone had put a 280z short block and a 260z top and carb into this car. He probably put the emission in it too. Otherwise it might be a throttle opener... who knows. But since I don't care about the old wiring I might just leave that alone and see how it goes.

No problem. I have a set of this so I recognizes its shape.

Looks like the street sport header that Sean sells on the fourm. Zstory.

Hi. Lance here. I finally got around to rewire my 1971 240z. It had a L28 and a faulty wiring and I'm very confused. So, I found a small metal box on the back of my speedo. It have a Yellow and a Yellow/black wire coming out and a red wire that hooks up with the speedo. I teared apart the old wiring and found the yellow one is connected to the IGN Black/White wire using some sketchy electrical tape, and the Y/B one is routed all the way to 4 big 2x5 connector that connects to the engine bay harness. I'm guessing this is a mix matched setup? Voltage regulator is not wired either. Since I'm rewiring the whole thing I just need to know what the heck is this small box. It outputs red about 11.6 volt when battery is connected via Y, and nothing at Y/B. I searched online and found this image of a 260z gauge that appears to have the identical box. It seems those green wires are the Y and Y/B on mine. I did some research online and found out nothing. Have anyone got a idea of what it does? I'm testing the gauges and the speedo and fuel gauge is not working.

I purchased a Z in Texas and shipped it to Michigan. But mine is a huge pile of trouble and it needs all kind of work so you probably not interested in this method. MR2 sw20 was the one I was considering to get if I can't get a Z. They're fun and cheap and easier to work with (Not if you want to work on the engine).