datto_240z

I know it needs isolator blocks, the carbs arnt even bolted down. All part of the deal! Ill be using my inlet manifold anyway because it has the eariler(75) balance tube, which looks much better:classic: And i found out the fuel bowls are easily movable to any angle! Ill clean them up at work tomorro and have them on the Z by this weekend! If I do notice a severe drop in power ill hunt down some Z round tops... or bigger SU's and put these to the Datsun 1000 project that is in the pipeline!

Well they are 38mm across the 'choke' hole. Which is just under 1.5". My book says the original 260Z carbs are 1.6"(40mm). 46mm is 1.8" and i cannot find that measurement anywhere in the book. The only markings on them is 'ISO' on both the body and fuel bowl. 2 studs have been removed from each side of the manifold(N36). Pics:

I recently bought some round top SUs for my 260Z. I got them home and was having a browse through here and found out they are off a L4 motor. 2 holes to secure to the manifold and a angled float bowl. The people i got them off(along with a L6 manifold) said they were used on a Z and was running fine. These people are in now way dodgy etc They are still 1.5". So what im asking is will i find any downfalls if i use these insed of my old flat tops compared to Z round tops? Cheers!

When i did brakes on my Z they squeeled like crazy! I skimmed rotors and new pads. I used 'brake anti squeel spray' and 'coppercoat' as if it were a customers car. I then asked my boss about it, a brake specialest for 20+ years, and he said i need shims. He ordered me in some almost fabric shims. They are of 3M brand and are just self adhesive pads you put between pison->pad / caliper->pad. Worked exelent! It will occasionally squeel white monovering but 10000x better then before!

Yeh ive had a search around. Ive read Alfadog's guide, but i know the how tos, im a apprentice mechanic and have done gearboxes in my old cars. i dont want a 4spd auto

Well after the latest cruise i went on, i decided im going to put a manual in my Z soon! So what do i need to know? What is the best box to use? Im after close ratios, im not after anything rare though. Also Diffs. What ratio should i try to find. Also whats with this long/short nose diffs? What do i need? and whats the deal with fitting bigger diffs, eg R200? Cheers guys!

If you are worried about intake temps that much here are a few cheaper/more effective ways to ruduce heat... -take the coolant lines off the manifold! I never had them connected on my Z and it always started well! -make a bigger/better heat sheild then the factory one plus coating the inside of you intake manifold would reduce air flow wouldnt it? The port sizes will be smaller and may have a rougher surface then factory. So for all the trouble you went through, you may actually be doing more harm then good... just my POV though

Very rare in AUS. From what i can gather they arnt too uncommon in Europe. there is one (best looking of them all if thats possible) just around the corner from me. Its been sitting, out in the weather, for years with no cover! Its a shame really, such a rare car over here just wasting away... he owns a 140Z in the same state! he is loking at selling them though to a better home. the cherry is posibly reparable the 140Z is a goner! It had a A series East West mounted... i think of it as a FWD 120Y(B210)

Paint stripper! I had to go right back to bare metal so it was the logical choise! I then used a random orbital sander to get rid of what the paint stripper didnt! You may want to add bead/sand blast to that list too

Well now i have the car running right... its a absolute swine in the mornings, or if its been sitting whilst at work etc. It cranks/fires etc fine it just cant stay idling, even at full choke! I have to pump the throttle a little to keep it alive and eventually it will stay idling, just, at full choke. then when you goto take off it will die... almost stall but by pumping the thottle it will kick back up. When warm its fine. gradually gets better as it warms up Could it all be due to cold start vac lines removed. there were never any coolant lines to inlet manifold. If so why do all the guys using aftermarket filters not have this problem? What is it? The car: 6/75 260Z 2+2 AUS model stock evertything New iginition system(everything) Freshly rebuilt flat tops(well cleaned) Timing at about 20btdc at idle, it doesnt ping at all and wont run at anything lower. Some vac lines for emmisions etc removed Thanks!!!

no the light shouldnt come on!!! Is the m/cyl fluid resivour full? It could be telling you that at full travel it is low on fluid. Push all the way down? Does the pedal goto the floor? It shouldnt. Is the pedal spungy or does it go hard before the floor? If its spungy it needs bleeding.

What i would do is find another car to cut up and cut as much of the damaged area on yours out of the donor car. then cut your car EXACTLY to where your new panel would fit and weld it up. Would be tricky to get right but probably your only option. Could try to hammer and dolly it all out but because its kind of demolished the rear edge/lines it will be very hard to recreate... and you'll be using a bit of bog:stupid:

Well she's all fixed!!! Put the cleaned carbs back on and no difference! So i was mucking around a bit more with it and ended up advancing the timing to about 20btdc. Was better! Still not good but better! So i retested the vac advance and it does have a slight leak. So I put the one off my other dizzy on it. better again! I had it pretty good at that stage so i thought why not try a NEW coil(BOSCH GT40R) and some NGK plugs. Put them in and BEAUTIFUL! as if it were straight out of the factory! Well it could have been that or the loose connection on the ballest resister:knockedou thanks for the help guys! Im happy again now!

Yeh twin Hitatchi flat tops, standard 260Z fitment. AUS didnt get the crazy double point setup... thankfully! Ive since pulled both carbs apart and cleaned everything with carby clean. Lots of carbon! The pistons move nice and free in their bores(always did). Now i just have to put the carbs back on and see what its like!

Its not vaccy advance. the diaphram is all good and the outlet from the inlet manifold has neg pressure. Plus that shouldnt stop it revving! My old 1000 ute never had the vac advance conected up tappets... tappets are tappets, cam-rocker clearance tuned the carbs with a AFM? hey? I havnt got vac guages and was balancing by eye. Coil should be fine I stated that the plugs were coming out black, ie rich I am now taking the carbs apart and cleaning them and hoping for the best when i put them back on! Will also invest in some vac guages to balance them properly