gotham22

I did a bunch of searches but I am still unsure how to test the system properly. My fuel gauge is not moving. It had previously worked. So I have a few questions: 1- How can I test the gauge on the bench to make sure it is not an issue with gauge itself? 3-When the wires are disconnected from the fuel sender is there a way to test and see if the gauge moves? 2-Anything else I should know? I attached the two pictures, the wires at the sender and the gauge Thanks in advance for your help.

I will conduct a test in a few days and see if it spins as a first step. Thanks for the quick repsonses

Hey Guys, I replaced my speedometer cable and it worked fine for about two weeks. Now the needle doesn't move. I checked the connection underneath the car and also at the back of the gauge. It looks good. If I remove the cable from the gauge and drive is that a good way to see if it is spinning? I have a dash cap and no easy way to remove the speedo unless I remove the dash which is not what I want to do. So I am looking for an alternate way to test it before I go down that route. I had similar issues with my other gauges and the fix was to take them apart and use fine sandpaper on the internal connections. Could that possibly be an issue here?

Has anyone tried to restore the antenna switch? Assuming you need to drill it open? My down position works but not the up.

I do have some play in the clutch pedal. Seems like I only have one choice now, remove the transmission and check throwout bearing collar

When you say play do you mean loose and squishy. My clutch pedal does not feel like that. Is there an adjustment I should try. Sorry for the novice questions

I took a couple of measurements. Does this seem right?

Going to gather more info this weekend when I get a chance to work on it again

to be honest I cant remember if it came with the sleeve. I did all the work in early 2000 but just got the car back on the road a few months ago.

I have a 1978 280z 5 speed. I installed a transmission service kit from Z Car Source of Arizona a while ago. Attached is the order form. Yesterday was the first time I was able to take the car for a long drive. When I get to 2500rpm the clutch slips in 2nd and 3rd gear and I can get no more power until I change gears. Has anyone had issues with this kit. I am a novice in working on cars so any advice on troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated. SO-100005509.pdf

@aland The depth is 4mm. I found springs at Lee Spring Part LCM050AA 02 M LCM050AA 02 M

I found something that will work. I had a brain fart and forgot about the fastener on top. For some reason I thought I needed a heavy duty mount inside the car.

Got the new nubbins. Looks like these will work. Take a look

I have a 1978 280z. Does anyone know where I can get a mount for my power antenna? I read the thread below which appears to show the original mount. I can't find it on-line though. Anyone have an alternative solution to mount it?

I should be getting the one I bought in a couple of days. I can compare the two. I barely “bent” it so hopefully I didnt mess it up too bad. As long as the temp is not pegged and the oil pressure doesnt read zero its a win!

Good news! It is fixed. I used 1000 grit sandpaper on the contacts and slightly bent the metal arm. Works as expected. I knew there had to be a way to fix it. Thanks for all the help guys. Keep knocking the finishing tasks off the list.

If you need more pics let me know. I had to remove the compressor to fix the front frame rail. Now I am debating if I go back to R12 or upgrade. One more thing on the list

Does this help? Mine is a 78 280z

Thanks Steve, I bought one on ebay. I know nothing about how these work but I am extremely curious so I opened it up. It seems pretty straight forward though. How can I tell which part failed? Is there a way to bench test it? Like I said, I am just curious and love to see how things work. So it's all I can think about right now! ha!

I pulled the gauge and I do have power from the dash harness. Since the issues resides at the gauge is there a way to fix the voltage regulator? Or wire a new one into the circuit. Or do I need to replace the gauge?

Last night I was driving and the gauges started working again - sort of. They weren't consistent as they moved back and forth. Do you think it still has something to do with the regulator and I have to pull the gauge?

which one of the test samples did you finally choose?

I know this has been covered many times. However, I thought I would post to help others. I repainted my tail light rear panels this weekend - 1978 280z. I am very happy with the outcome. I know this may not suffice for the purists. I did an awful sanding job and I will have to go back and re-do it at some point. Here is what I used SEM 39033 Charcoal Trim SEM 13023 Low Luster Clear Color Krylon K01010A07 Premium Metallic Spray

finally got around to testing the nubbins. They are close, not deep enough for the spring though

Got my nubbins!! They look good. Have a major issue though. My wife threw away my springs. WTF!!!!!????? I have no words. Anyone know where I can get these or do I need to find someone to manufacture springs. I found this company - https://www.jamesspring.com/our-capabilities/compression-springs/