gotham22

Should the hazard light turn on when the headlights go on? I tested my bulb and it is good. I haven't seen it turn on though

ok, I got it this time. Finally! I started my troubleshooting over from scratch. 1)Jumped G and GY at C7 again for a sanity check to make sure the turn signals worked. They did. 2) Took apart the hazard switch and cleaned up all the connections. Tested it with a multimeter and found no issues. 3) Connected G and GY from c7 directly to my switch. This worked Problem was somewhere with the wires that connects C7 to my switch. Ohms test was fine on all the wires. Although I did not see any corrosion, I once again cleaned the male and female connections. Then I sprayed it with deoxit. Reconnected everything and now I have both hazards and turn signals working! Damn this was not an easy one with two separate issues. Thanks all for the help. Couldn't have done it without your help

I pulled the switch apart and everything looks clean. Not sure what the issue could be with it. Taking another look now

Spoke to soon. Hazards work, turn signals do not when wires are not jumped at c7. I pulled the hazard switch apart to see what is wrong. Connectors look fine, no corrosion. I ran continuity tests on the switch side wires to the board and all checked out. On the board I can jump the hazards and get them to work but I can not jump the turn signals. With the ignition in the on position the dash side connector green wires both have power. Where can I look next?

I think I got it. Originally I stated I bypassed the hazard switch by jumping GY - G in C7. Turn signals did not work. Then I connected c7 back and put in the new relay and it still didn't work. Since I am positive this relay is good I tried jumping the wires in C7 again. Now it works!! Seems like I have a bad hazard switch and a bad flasher relay. You guys are awesome! Thanks for the advice. This was my last fix. After 3.5 years I can get it back on the road!!

Well the new flasher didnt work. Where do I go from here?

BTW - Captain obvious. Read your post from April 28, 2016 which is how I knew to jump c7. Thank you!

Finished your test and looks like you guys were right. Going to buy the relay you suggested and see if that fixes it 12v to the W wire with turn signal up 0v white wire GY wire 12v

Thanks. Going to do your test now and will get back to you

Thanks for the info guys. - I do not have any corrosion that I can see on the connections. -Steve J - The white wire on the dash harness side connects to the green wire (where I took the reading) on the switch side. Those two are the same right? So my voltage test was accurate? dash side = W GB GR switch side = G WR WB Not sure if this is a dumb question. Is the hazard relay the same because those work? Could I pull that temporarily and use it for the turn signals? Or is there a way to test the flasher on the bench?

I have a 1978 280z that I am so close to getting back on the road after 4 years. I can't get the turn signals to work and I am at a standstill. After searching forums the obvious thing was to check the hazard switch (hazards work). I jumped the green/yellow to the green at C7 to rule out the hazard switch. With the wires jumped I see 12v at the turn signal. Removing the jumper and keeping the hazard switch in-line I see 12v as well. As you can see in the picture, the connector to the turn signal has the following wires G WR WB GB RY RW With the turn signal in the middle position I have 12v at the G wire and the GB wire. When I move the turn signal to the up or down position the G wire drops to 0v and GB stays at 12v. When I return it to the middle position the G wire has 12v again. I also looked at the flasher unit under the drivers dash. I have 12v on the green wire going in to it. 0v on the white wire. At this point I am not sure what to do next. Any ideas?

Getting so close to getting the car back on the road after 3 years! So excited!

guys, thanks for the help. Drilled it and used jb weld expoxy. Worked great

Thanks captain obvious. Kickstand, my bad for not saying it is a 78 280z

So these should not connect to each other? The "t" should feed them both

thanks for the quick response. And I guess "good" one is a relative term! ha!

Can someone tell me what connects to this t fitting from the carbon canister? I cant figure out where this hose goes.

I started putting my front bumper back on the car and I noticed I have a problem with a broken bolt. Does anyone know how I can fix this? I really do not want to have to buy a replacement.

Thanks for all the replies. Even though I lubricated this piece I had to remove it as it will still the cause. Fully cleaned and lubricated and everything is working great now

I am having trouble with my gas pedal sticking. If you push all the way down and then let go it pops back up. However, if gently press it the pedal it will not return to the up position. I replaced the throttle spring but that didn't help. Is there a specific specification for the spring? I also fully cleaned the linkage to make sure there was not dirt or grime holding it up. IMG_5896.mp4

Been a long time since I posted. I want to thank everyone for their help. Turned out to be the horn. I don't have the horn connected in front but the steering wheel was making contact

this is probably my fault. I thought for sure it was the starter but then I i pulled the wire and the battery still drains

SteveJ, I got all the items and did your test. I tested the light on the battery first to make sure it worked. I then went one by one on the fusible links and it did not light up for any of them. I attached some pictures of the fusible links in case it helps. The light is not on in the car and the clock never worked. I did not always have this battery issue.

Great suggestion SteveJ thanks for the help. I will try that

It has to be something else. I see the voltage drop in days and not months. I am not sure where this is coming from. It never did this before and I haven't touched the car in months. Too cold to work on during the winter. Time to pull fuses