gotham22

I opened the cover and I do not see anything loose or broken. I will check the lash tomorrow

After work today I am going to open it up and see what I find.

right, I didn't touch those as they engine was running fine before removal

I forgot the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the down pipe. While unbolting I broke a stud. uggghh! Waiting for new studs to come in now. Will lash the valves in the meantime.

I did lash the valves before I put the engine back in but I will check again. As Zed Head suggested - here is the current situation All the structural damage has been professionally repaired. Engine ran fine before removal. I did a compression test and it looked good. Engine Work done: new fuel injectors oil pan gasket lashed valves replaced EGR new oil filter rear main seal pilot bushing new master cylinder for clutch and brakes Transmission: clutch fork pivot ball throw out bearing new fly wheel and clutch Suspension: full rebuild of front suspension rebuild of brakes new wheel bearings new hubs

Reading somewhere that this might be an exhaust leak. Is that possible. I do have some white smoke

Well, I was able to start the engine which is a great thing....but now it sounds like this. Where do I start troubleshooting? IMG_3607.mp4

makes sense, thanks grannyknot

I am assuming that it will still work if deleted but not be as safe, correct? Can anyone help with question 2 and 3 in the previous post

I dont have that valve. I guess the previous owner removed it?

it looks like my valve doesn't have a connector for the wire.

One more question regarding the charcoal canister. Does anyone know what connects to this t-fitting?

Making great progress getting all the engine parts back together. Ran into a couple of wiring questions, hope you guys can help 1. I have two bullet connectors near the brake master cylinder and I do not know where they connect to 2. where do the white and blue wires with bullet connectors go to? 3. this wire is broken and I am not sure where it goes

thanks mailnome, I will give it a try. Hoping the wire itself still works. fingers crossed

Guys, anyone know how to fix the BCCD wire? Or do I need to find a new solenoid? Also, thought I'd share a tip. I needed to do some touch up painting in the engine bay. I bought a Master Airbrush Model G22 on amazon. It was 25 bucks and it works great. I highly recommend

Is there a way to fix that connector? Or buy a new one? I still cant find one online. Also, another terrible rookie mistake: I just found out that the thermotime polarity actually matters unlike the fuel injectors. How can I determine which is hot and which is ground? The battery and the rest of the wiring is disconnected so I am going to have to wait until I get that all done. Once done can I start the car with it unplugged and use a meter?

As I am going through the engine and I found this less than ideal electrical connection. 🙂 Does anyone know if this part can be replaced or fixed? Searching on google only resulted in deletion plates but not the part. Also, I made a very bad rookie mistake. My labels fell of my wires and I am not 100% sure I know which is my cold start connector and which is for the aux air. How screwed am I?

Its been sometime since I posted. Finally getting back to work on the car. The engine and transmission is in!! Goal is to drive this summer! I realized I am missing a prop shaft bolt. Can I use a regular Hex bolt or does it have to have the square side like this one?

All thanks for the help! I got it together! I removed the clutch and re-centered it and I still could not close that gap. It made no sense. So I removed the clutch again and I removed the pilot bushing that I had put on about a month ago. The bushing's inner diameter is slightly too large and does not fit over the spindle. But the plastic tool worked just fine which is why I didn't think of this at first. WTF??!! Luckily as I was searching through my parts boxes I had bought another one on ebay a long time ago and forgot I had it. Once I put the new one in and put the clutch back on the whole job took 5 mins to align. She is ready to go back in! Been a long time coming.

Thanks Dave,That makes sense. I have the bell housing solid dowel installed. The hollow ones were mangled by PO. Do I need to get new ones or will the solid one suffice? I will remove and re-add the clutch today. I have another pilot bushing so if this one is damaged I can replace it.

Having trouble putting the transmission back on. It seems like no matter what I do I always have a gap and can not fit it flush to the engine. I tried using longer bolts with washers as spacers to see if I could pull it in and close the gap. It did work to an extent but not enough to use the actual bolts.It doesn't look like the clutch is interfering with the install. I do not see any reason why there would be a gap, it looks like I assembled everything correctly. I know the splines were matching because if I turned the engine crank I saw it turning on the rear side of the transmission. Anyone seen something like this before? Any ideas or tricks that I am unaware of. The engine and transmission are out of the car. It is the same engine and transmission I pulled. The clutch and pressure plate are new and so is the pilot bushing. The bushing is the same size as the one I removed. The engine is on a hoist.

Engine and bay done. Assembling the front suspension. Finally putting things back on the car!!!

Also painted the block.

New paint. Very happy with it

Happy to report that I removed the injector holder screw by drilling and tapping. Also removed one of the three studs from the exhaust manifold via welding a nut. The other two snapped even more after welding. Again drill and tap. Fly wheel is off and main seal is next We are moving end of July beginning of August. I told me wife I am driving to the new house. Now I have to make it happen.