gotham22

Thanks Zed. I figure that was probably my only option

sorry for upside down pics

Now for the good news. Masked, primed and started painting the engine bay! Did not buy nearly enough paint so now I have to wait.

To clarify, this is a screw for the fuel injector mount

I was removing the fuel rail and I ran into 4 tough screws towards the front of the engine. This one screw snapped and had I had nothing to grab. I tried a screw extractor which did nothing. As you can see I am just making the problem worse. Any ideas?

From what I understand the 74 260z is the same as the 280z. If you I have one I am interested. I will send you a pm.

I didn’t see a whole lot of them online which I was thinking of salvaging one. And I was trying not to spend $400. I didn’t see the post about the wrecking yard. Do you have a link?

thanks Patcon/Grannyknot. After consideration I think I am going to try to repair A as it is overall in better shape. If I can't get that to work then I have plan B, literally! Your advice is greatly appreciated. Will update the post once I begin work.

I ran into a problem and I do not know what the best solution is. I have two different cross members and I am not sure which is the right one (easier) to repair. Cross member A has a better under side. Cross member B has a better top side. In the close up's you can see the damage to A. I am assuming that I should take the bottom of A and somehow weld it on B. Is that the right approach? Should I cut and replace the section where I drew the yellow boxes? How would I separate the bottom of the crossmember from the top section. It looks like there are two pieces welded together.

Steady progress is being made. The grease popped the stuck caliper pistons nicely. However, it then clogged up the inner passage ways. After a lot of trial and error (air and various cleaners did nothing) I was able to put both pistons half way in and grip them so they wouldn't move then I used compressed air. Few times like this and they finally unplugged. Tested with carb cleaner multiple times and saw it come out the other side. Looks like it is all good now. Next I disassembled the hubs and removed the bearings and races. Lastly shocks and struts have been replaced and I bought new ball joints. Front suspension is getting close. I was so proud of myself when I finished the first shock and strut and then I realized I put on the rear springs. Posting the picture of what it should NOT look like. I know nothing here is too earth shattering but I can't believe I have gotten this far. ''

got it, the solvent should clear the inner passage ways right? The projects that should be easy are always the worst. I received some goodies yesterday - KYB shocks, Eibach springs and new rotors

One question, the brake piston was freezed and I needed to use a grease gun to push them out. Now that they are out how do I clean the grease inside the caliper

Making progress! Got the hubs off and started rebuilding the calipers.

great thanks. Will take a look

Site unseen do you have the link by any chance

getting more done. Next moving on to the wheel hub bearings and rotors

Maybe this will help someone in the future. I took the boot and was able to stretch it over the round handle of a chisel. Then i used a heat gun to loosen it up. It took about 4 attempts like this but I was eventually able to get the boot on. Its the easy things that that are the hardest...

Making progress on the rack. Finished painting it and put the new dust covers on. Of course after I finished painting I scratched it in the middle. Quick fix though.

Has anyone used the tie rod boots from zcar depot? I bought a pair but I can not get them on. The inner ring is just a little too small to get on the tie rod. I did everything and couldn't get them on. I think my rack is original but I cant be certain. Has anyone had luck with rubber boots from somewhere else?

Hey, was wondering if anyone had a tip for me. I removed the drivers side outer tie rod but the passenger one is seized. Its lefty loosy on the passenger side right? The drivers side is the one that is the opposite way? I have used heat and PB blaster. Wont budge.

excellent information, thank you. I will revise the listing tonight

I agree zed. The price is best offer. I put it in wrong. It’s an excellent opportunity for someone to get a great car with a little work.

View Advert Sadly must sell - 1978 - 280z It’s with great sadness that I am selling my 1978 280z. My wife and I are moving and there is no room for it at the new house. About a year and a half ago I was simply going to change the front bushings and at that time I found major rust on the driver’s side frame rail and floor pan. Apparently a previous owner filled it with fiberglass which is why it was unknown to me. My only option was to pull the engine to get at the rust. The frame rail, drivers floor pan and radiator support have all been professionally repaired. All that is left is to put the engine back in and restore the front suspension parts. With a 2 year old daughter and my work schedule I have not been able to do this. The body is in very good condition with some minor defects. It is racing green (not original) with a brown interior. I replaced the windshield, added 240 chrome wipers, a 240z wood steering wheel and had the non-working original radio retro fitted by Joes Classic Car radio. The car ran great and the compression test I did before removal was even across all cylinders. The 5 speed transmission shifts smoothly with no issues. I stock piled some parts that I didn’t have a chance to use yet. These will have to go to. Parts List Full front rubber bushings Alternator Adjusting bar Decal anti freeze Decal Nihon Radiator Decal, Vehicle Emissions Door Seals Egr valve and gasket Electrical Schematics Fuel Injector Hose Clamps Fuel Line Heat Connector Inspection bumpers Left Door Seal Outlet Heater Hose Thermostat Valve Cover Bolts Water Pump Also bought a new transmission kit from z car source. If you have any interest please let me know. In addition I will throw in the engine stand and engine crane which I will no longer need. Please see my thread Rust Advice 280z on these forums. You will see pictures and the work done. Advertiser gotham22 Date 01/26/2020 Price Category Cars for Sale Year 1978 Model 280z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  

I am a Saran Wrap and Tin foil guy ?

Thanks for the info. Wasn’t sure if it would be powerful enough. Guess you guys confirmed that