german240

Amazon lists one for all, too. Cardone only sells one type, 31-619. Did you ever check your advance? Or is it possible that the advance curve is stored in the little match box?

I'm in Europe..so no Aditionally, RA lists the same part numbers for all ZX cars.. so I could have bad luck and receive the same dizzy again.

Today I received a 280zx dizzy from Rockauto. It is a '82 ZX model, D6K81-01. I didn't know that it is considered as dangerous for S30 engines! Is there any way to recurve the dizzy? @Walter Moore Any input would be appreciated!! I'm building a L28 stroker right now..

You can get the clamps from China, too. Crazy cheap, shipping takes 2-4 weeks, though. Look and feel like OEM. China clamps

So the Delta grind is somewhat milder than advertised.. here is an actual cam sheet (actual grind): The good: I won't need performance retainers / springs, 0.160" lash pads should work. According to "how to modify your Datsun engine" this is about the max thickness allowed with stock retainers. The stock springs are fine up to 0.460" lift, too. The bad: I wanted a more agressive grind (we talked about 235deg@0.05"). I got 229/222 deg in/ex. Let's see how it is going to perform!

Update: I got the crank back from the specialist. Now it is back to specs!! Before: 0.17mm (0.0066") runout After: 0.01mm (0.000393") runout All the main and rod journals are exactly at the lower wear limit. I'll use standard bearing shells then. I'm actually quite impressed how everything turned out! I also received a big package with Sean's (Zstory) stainless steel exhaust systems with sport/race equal lenght headers. The "muffler" looks quite nice I'm not worried about my car being to quiet anymore.

The seller claims that the car from which he pulled the crank was running, too. Could be a transport damage. Let's see what the specialist says!

Bad news... the crankshaft is bent. Around 0.02" (0.5mm) runout. I'll send it to a specialist, he might be able to fix it. EDIT: Runout was 0.17mm

The only issue that concerns me is, that I will have to use a 2.0mm or 2.5mm head gasket. Therefore, the valve timing will be advanced (I guess maybe 1-2°?). The stock sprocket only allows timing changes in 3° increments, doesn't it? In other news I got forged H-beam conrods with ARP bolts. They save around 200g(!!) per conrod, means 1.2 Kg less total oscillating weight. The hone pattern and overall quality looks very nice. I will have the tolerances double checked at a machining shop. My engine block, head, crank, intake and carbs are sent to an engine builder, too. It will be bored to 89mm (with torque plate). He can't sonic test it, though. I still haven't got an answer from Rebello.

I did a similar thing.. transplanted the internals of an old VDO clock (quarz) into the '71 Z clock. It's almost a straight fit!

That's what I heard, too. Thanks for pointing that out! You might be right about the SU's. Eventually, I am going to upgrade to Weber DCOE's (45). However, as I'm tight on budget, I'll be using the SU's for the first year or so. Do you think the mechanical fuel pump will work with a stroker setup? I don't like the idea of having an extra safety switch, wiring harness etc. for the electrical fuel pump. I think there is a lot of conflicting info about the ideal block. Several webpages state that the F54 is the best block. Nonetheless, there are a few sources which agree that the N42 is the better block due to thicker walls. I have to use what I got, so it is the F54. The difference between static and dynamic compression is clear, it all depends on the valve timing. I just thought you might have some experiences which combinations (cam+CR) could work - that's why I asked. Another open topic is: Will a thicker HG advance my cam timing noticeably? In other words: Should I get a fully adjustable cam sprocket? --I also sent an email to Dave Rebello, but no answer so far. Thank you all!

@Diseazd Any idea what cam specs Eiji has in mind for your build? A CR of 12 sounds pretty agressive to me, especially with 93 octane fuel. However, good to know that Eiji uses the N42 head, too! I don't think I'll have clearance issues since I use the 8mm 240z rods (not the 9mm ones, but I got upgraded ARP bolts). I got the pistons from Rockauto, pretty cheap tbh (I think something around $180 for the set of cast ITM 89mm pistons). Maybe I could really go for 10.3 static compression. What cam are you using? BTW what is the advantage of a MSD box additionally to the ZX dizzy? @madkaw I really want a fun street car with lots of torque. I think the cam I've chosen is neither mild nor super hot - somewhere inbetween (234deg@0.005"). I could go for more lift, however, then I'll loose torque at low engine speeds. Would you go hotter? Thank you all - this turns out to be super helpful! I'm open to any suggestions or criticism Tim

I think you got me wrong - I want to use the N42 head as I don't have a differerent one available. 2 and 2.5mm HG are available from Kameari for around $200, so that's fine. All 90.5mm head gaskets are equally expensive

I just ordered ARP bolts since I got 8mm L24 conrods. I'd guess they are stronger than stock 9mm bolts. @Diseazd Please keep me updated! I still don't know if a 10.2-10.3 CR is too high..

I know - I just want to avoid to order several kits (they are $80 each). Maybe I can get away with the first try/guess I'll get the crankshaft rebuild (0.25mm shaved) and balanced. In Germany you get all kind of fuels: Regular (90 octane), Premium (93 octane) and "special" fuel but also from the gas station with 95 octane. All ratings (ROZ+MOZ)/2. Regarding the damper: I plan on buying this one. Thoughts? Interesting. I heard that L series DON'T like compression at all - that they are prone to pinging. Thanks guys!

I've thought about getting the turbo pump. Is it really necessary? Or, in other words, is there any record of a failure due to the stock pump? CR wise I'm really unsure. I'm afraid of loosing to much spark advance with a high CR. This would cost a lot more HP than a lower CR with 32-34deg total advance, right?

Hey guys, I'm about to build my first L28 stroker engine. So far I have all the parts ready/ordered except the head gasket. - L28 F54 block, bored to 89mm - L28 N42 head - LD28 crank - L24 conrods (with 8mm ARP bolts) L24 forged H-beam conrods, ARP bolts - resurfaced rockers and reground cam from Delta (282deg advertised duration, 234deg@0.005", 0.450" lift) - MSA performance springs & retainers (?) <- to be discussed - KA24E pistons (almost flat top, 2.8cc dish) - E12-80 dizzy (D6K8-02) - SFI Spec harmonic damper - SU carbs with SM needles, fully refurbished My questions are: Should I go for 10.2 or 9.7 static compression (2 vs. 2.5mm HG) Will the mechanical fuel pump still work for that setup Any idea about the lash pad size needed? I'd guess 0.175"? I have to order them from the US to Germany, therefore I would like to avoid ordering several times ;-) ..did I miss something? Thank you

Thanks for the heads up. According to Amazon it is a 23lb flywheel - plus I'll send it to a workshop in order to get it lightened. MUCH cheaper than the Findanza I found this table somewhere: The 30501-0H600 Collar is even available through Nissan Europe!

This is the flywheel I'm going to buy and this is the clutch kit - does that help? It is all supposed to fit a 1983 280zx turbo. But as there are different parts within this category I suspect that some of them won't fit

Is this collar available at rockauto? EDIT: is this the correct one? Thanks

I have no clue why I thought it would be a different size Thanks for the the hint! So I get everything I need for the 240z 4spd trans if I buy the 240mm flywheel and this 240mm(?) clutch Link? Is the bearing enough for the swap? Thanks guys!

HI guys, I need your help. I've been searching the whole web (almost) and still don't know more than before I started my search. I want to swap my L28 flywheel/clutch to a 240mm unit. I use a stock 4-speed gearbox (out of my 240z). I've read that the 280z 2+2 as well as later 280zx turbo cars use a 240mm flywheel. However, if I look up the flywheel at rockauto, I always end up finding the same (225mm) flywheel for all models (240z-280zx), even though it says 280 2+2: Rockauto I also heard a SR20DET clutch + some other flywheel could work.. If someone had a parts number or a list of all required parts for a swap..that would be super awesome!! Thanks!

Guys, has someone ever tried to rebush the carbs? I know Ztherapy offers this service, However, I would like to try it on my own. I found a comprehensive tutorial here. So far I haven't found suitable bushings (brass or Delrin), any advice? Is there any source for new throttle shafts? How have you dealt with worn out shafts/bushings? Thanks!