drunkenmaster

I have the engine mounts and took photos of their sump. You can see discussion on this in the enigne forum under sump design. It is not very new, it has been in there range for some time now, the mounts look in good order but i havent test fitted yet, the sump is questionable.

it will definately be thicker than your insulating material you have bought, it is a sheet of rubber bonded to what looks like a mismatch of off cut material, lots of different colours and the overall effect is a purple colour. You will know the one when you see it. Its about 1cm or ~0.5" from memory, so maybe it will cause the probelms you are trying to avoid. What I ended up doing in my car is using epoxy primer over the sandblasted metal, followed by a sprayed coat of bitumen stone guard topped off with body colour. This way I hope not dirt/water can get trapped between layers and lead to rust and the effect is quite similar to just colour over metal. In the factory deadening I found this to have happened, where the exposed metal was in top shape but some recessed areas under the deadening where the water can get trapped were signs of rust. Anyhow, I'm sure you know what you are doing. It took me a long time to make my decision on what to do, that is why I have such an opinion on it. I was also keen to put some heat reflecting material under the transmission tunnel but was worried about the adheisve so never go around to it.

Well, it is a thermal insulator. I would have used the OEM style rubber backed matting for padding, like in the 300zx etc. Personally after spending so much time removing the factory adhesive matting, I am not keen on glueing anything unnessary down to the car again. Just to elaborate I attached a photo of the roof flashing I was talking about. For all intents and purposes it appears to be identical to most big names such as some models of dynamat and brown bread.

Logically the foil side will face the heat source to reflect the radiant heat, but this means putting it underneath the car, not inside. You would also have to be confident in the adhesive you use will not melt and let the insulation come loose. Alternatively you can put it in the inside foil side up, it may stop some of the heat reacing the cabine but the floor pan itself will get just as hot. Locally we often buy "flastac" or home roof flashing from hardware stores to use as a sound deadener. It also has a foil side as well, then bitumen with an adhesive backing. Very easy to use as the adhesive is already there.

Those tilting attachemnts for the hoist are great, but locally they are quite expensive. The way i did it was to use a screwdriver in the loops of the chain to adjust how far the chain will slip though the hook, determining the angle of the motor.

$300 :stupid:

New Zealand. I may bring one over so we can work something out if you are serious, I am still exploring local options. I never did get to see the photos of your sump from a while ago.

Will take offers

After seeing those photos the guy who built my engine wants to build the sump for me, pictured below. What do you guys think.

Guys, I need an experienced opinion on this sump for my conversion, it looks a bit rough to me but then again, I am hardly experienced in the ways of the sump. Thanks

Box is sold. Carbs still available thanks

Sulio offered the $250 and I don't think wants to go over that from his reply, think he needs to money elsewhere on the car also. I think it is as good as sold, i just have to wait to hear from someone today.

FWIW, I just double checked the box does indeed have the 2.9 first gear.

Best offer of $300 on the box has been received, taking last calls.

Not sure, between $20 and $40 I'd guess through australia post, more through a freight company.

I have some pics on my website of the L28E eqipped 260Z i used to own if this is of any help: http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Zdonorengine.html The 280zx I used to own also had a stick throttle on occasion and the cure was lubing up the "ball and knuckle" joints of the throttle linkages real good.

240Z carbs, choke cablem air cleaner and heat sheild.

Hi all, I have some spare from my 1977 260Z I have no longer need for: 260Z 5 speed gearbox: Was in fine condition when in car 6 monthes ago however I only owned the car for approx. 1 week before i took it off the road so my experience with it was somewhat limited. $350obo 240Z round top carbs/air cleaner cover/choke cable: Were a blast for someone only experienced with flat top carbs in the past, just tuned and oiled before mechanic snapped a bolt in my engine head prompting the car to come off road. $350obo 260Z alternator: offers 260Z air con compressor offers Thanks

cross member is redrilled to reduce bump steer. I dont think any decent brake kit would give you much change from $3k alone.

there are 2 manuals, user manual and installation manual. But like I said before, one will go to the battery and one will go to and acc. powered line. More than likely the fused one will go to the battery, and like i said also, if you put them both to 12V the unit WILL work for testing purposes.

Brakes, rotors, and coilovers full assembled on shortened struts with redrilled crossmember is around the $6k I beleive from the retailer. I bought mine 2nd hand but unused.

I have heard its best to use rubber in the rear. Urethane in the front is nice for the steering?

my suspension was orginally from speed-technology in Melbourne. Add a .com or .com.au to their name for a website. The suspension and brake package is really good but it doesnt come cheap at all.

Im pretty sure yellow should go to your battery for permanent power while the red one should go to accessories power, which is only high when the key is turn past acc. It could be the other way around, my mind is a blank at the moment. Either way you could connect them both to 12V for testing purposes to see if the deck turns on, the only downfall of leaving it like this is the deck could be left unning while the car is off leaving one flat battery.

Engine mounts and gearbox mount will have to be custom made with your main concern being just not to hit anything i.e the bonnet As far as lining up goes all report i have heard and seen say that in true nissan style it all lines up perfectly. I plan to upsize my brake master cylnder, cant remember the size as i am not good with feet and inches but does 15/16" sound right? I think its from a 280zx?