drunkenmaster

The "bump stops" varied in height over the years and between 240 and 260Z's

Hi all, Who do you guys in the states prefer to source your Z rubbers from? A guy I know locally said he is looking at importing a full set of victoria british rubbers which will work out to be a fraction of buying genuine nissan items. Sounds good and i might jump on the band wagon. Is anyone using these rubbers or can recommend others? Opinions are appreciated Thanks

correct, that would be some www.zworx.com.au

This weekend I did something different again:

Unregistered 280zx's are very cheap these days, i would expect a RWC for that price

Thanks for the good info, its exactly what i was after. HKSZ brings up a good point though and I have cancelled all work on the 280zx test car, I didnt think about engine bay clearances and even bonnet clearances may be different...

The front crossmembers look quite different but you are saying the engine mount "arm" from the block to the crossmember is the same between the 280zx and 240z?

How about 260Z 2+2 to 2 seater gearbox crossmember and engine mounts?

It is a straight swap, but whether the engine mounts from the block to the rubber front crossmember mounts are the same and whether the gearbox crossmember mounts are the same distance apart is the question

Hi all, I need to know whether the 280ZX and 260Z/240Z share the same engine mounts and gearbox/crossmember mounts. I am having custom engine mounts made and gearbox crossmember made to suit an RB motor BUT the builder accidently got in a 280ZX dummy car for my 260Z. Please let me know ASAP if this will work if you can Thanks

Im in the middle of doing a bare metal resto and while it is time consuming and expensive, its the only way you know the job is done right. Especially with a more powerful engine swap, i needed the peice of mind that a concealed rusted frame rail wasnt going to snap around a 100kmh bend. I too looked at buying someone elses restoration but I have only seen a couple for sale in the last few years i would call anything close to a restoration, yet there are many advertised as them.

The ONLY way in my opinion is to cut out the bad metal and weld in new metal. It was suprising to me that the lower radiator and rear 1/4 window were rusted so bad where as the bulk of the car is very rust free, usually you get a whole lot of in between, not 2 extremes. Anybody work you require is obviously preferably done before new paint :classic:

unpleasant suprises (but this is it, floorpans etc are as new)

the car now

Well It didnt take all weekend, just sunday afternoon. Sunday morning was used for stripping manifolds, assembling my new crane and buying chains and high tensile bolts fromt he hardware store. I am getting the following made in NZ: rebuilt RB30DET (RB30/RB25 hybrid) rebuilt T3/T4 turbo custom gtr style plenum and tb+linkages The list goes on for about a page with other little bits but that is the bulk of it.

Depends what country your in and how much work your going to do yourself?

I removed my wiring harness just over a week ago, i dearched my pics but i didnt get a clear shot of the box cover, can take one tomorrow night though if its not too late.

How are everyones Z related new years resolutions coming along? Here is a sneak peak photo of my weekend activities on the Z formerly known as Cuongs.

Yeh, thats why i stopped my L28ET build, a lot of people in the know were telling me fuel economy was terrible. A 3.1 L28 with triple carbs that does 13's I imagine would just be pouring fuel into the motor. Personally I'd use injection and port the plenum and use a 65mm throttle body. The only reason my 280zx uses so much fuel is its rough running condition, its anyones guess how many cylinders im firing on at any one time :stupid: It drives great after i service it though, but it needs the plugs cleaned/replaced every 5000kms, my guess is rings being the cause. I sound like an old man talking about fuel economy but only since i started driving around 400km's a week to work have i valued petrol so much...

Whats the expected fuel economy out of interest? My 280zx does a good 10L/km freeway driving, but is very bad city driving, and thats with injection. My L26 260Z's I have owned never stayed on the road long enough to go through a full tank so im not sure on those, they seemed thirsty though. If its not your daily driver then its not a worry but mine are/will be so i keep it in mind. These cars cost me a fortune in fuel compared to my old 4 cylinder, much more fun though.

Its a bitch on the L28E becuase of the EFI gear but if you hunt around with a torch you will find the casting in big letters on the manifold side down low

correct, but as the 280Z was never released in australia i assume it was a typo.

why is it your best guess? why cant you view the castings?

ah-HAH! :bandit:

As far as I can see that is not easily done as the catch/hook is mounted pretty much outside of the car above the number plate not leaving much room for a latching mechanism and at the same time you hardly want people to be able to access the mechanism from the outside. As far as i can see the only practical way is electric but the two pitfalls are: a) you will need some sort of mechanical back up in case the solenoid dies or you have a dead battery wiring will have to be visible between the body and hatch, perhaps where the demister wiring is.