drunkenmaster

http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Zfueltankremoval.html The photos I took are not very detailed but may be of some sort of assistance.

Its a very simple job, you dont need much clearance at all. Just drain the tank with the bolt at the bottom so it is nice and light and then undo the bolts holding the fastening straps at it will fall. (Note: you should have disconnected the fuel lines and sended wires etc first )

Cant I enjoy my mad panic after getting home from the mechanics without someone trying to talk sense into me? These deposits are fairly serious though, enough to fill the thermostat housing and seize the hosing bolts into the head enough that an oxy and welding nuts onto it just snaps the bolt further and further. In my disapointment I was just thinking that I wanted an L28 in the end any way, so why stuff around with the L26. Im sure things will be clearer in the morning. Thanks

Anyone good one in good shape they will part with? Found the source of my starting problems, my thermostat was jammed open with stalactites of crystalised deposits. Theory is a previous owner may have blown the head gasket and went crazy with the "stop leak" additive. This crap is all through the head and i can only imagine what the radiator, heater, water pump etc look like inside....I may as well fit a 2.8 rather than mess around with cleaning up the 2.6, same amount of effort. SO much for this Z being on road ASAP...

Do you make or do you plan to make the rear dogleg infront of the rear wheels? If so could you PM me a price as well as the price of the sills. Thanks

We had a lot of coverage, almost 24 hour for a few weeks. Sadly even more coverage probably than the Bali bombings which had a much more direct impact on us.

Oh my...If i didnt have so much tied up in my cars I would buy this rigth way: 2003-09-09 Datsun 260Z Coupe 2 Seater Another car from my collection is for sale. 260Z coupe 2 seater, setup for targa style tarmac events, VG30 V6 quad cam twin throttle body, turbo charged motor, large custom intercooler, EMS engine management with remote hand controller, developes big hp with lots of torque, conversion fully engineered with certificate, large four spot ventilated front brakes, rear disc brake conversion, Race Brakes pads, Koni upgraded suspension, 5 spd box, R200 4.1 LSD, Performance alloy wheels with R spec race tyres, caged with CAMS log book, white with black checker duco, black interior, rego & RWC, Excellent Condition. Lots spent on this car, Regretful Sale. Number plates QUIKZ to be sold with car. No time wasters please Price: $15,000.00 Location: Bendigo Contact: Tony Phone: 0400 590 797 (hours: 6.30am to 9.30pm)

I have one of those in mind actually, he built the L28 motor of a local yellow 240Z running low 12's. Most know who I mean. Your plan sounds similar to what I would like to do, I will discuss it in detail with the workshop when I am ready to pull the motor out of the donor.

I dont have the data here at work but often there will be a small circuit diagram embossed on the side of the relay. Basically you want your switch (ignition) to put power across the coil in the relay to allow your source (battery) to power the output (pump). If that fails, run a search on relays as those numbers for the contacts are fairly universal.

PS. I dont mean to rant on and I respect/appreciate everyones input but I thought a bit more background info may be helpful. It took me a full weekend to get the electrics working 100% and to get the car to even start/run and I cant afford to wait until every weekend to do a little more as i need it onroad as of 3 weeks ago :disappoin

I am dead keen on doing what I can myself, im an engineer by occupation so problem solving and building/working with my hands is a natural passion. However you find most of the guys who have neat backyard workshops have fathers who share their interest or at least experienced relatives. Everything I have learnt is of my own accord and even if my father lived in the same country, he sure as hell wouldnt support rebuilding a car older than myself. This is fine and I am happy learning as I go BUT stuffing up an engine could be a costly excercise for the sake of learning. This is what has lead me to the decision that I should pull the engine and drop it off to a qualified mechanic, I am more than happy to swap over the ancillaries and rewiring the car is something I am actually very much looking forward to so I can add some electronics of my own. Like I said, once i have the L26 out or if anything goes wrong with it I may tear it down and have a crack at it but the L28E's are too expensive in my mind to stuff up, especially when following vague descriptions and grainy black and white photos. At least one of them will be turbocharged and I am hoping for the high 100's for rw kw. All the moe stress on the internals and all the more requirements for fine tolerneces. As for the daily driver issue, buying another Z probably wasnt the brightest idea although it seemed good at the time. The initial plan was to buy a roadworthy Z and drive it, possibly stealing/swapping parts between it and my good car as need be. The problem is that I have come to really appreciate the "completeness" of my new Z and dont know if I could tear it apart, that and it is a fair way off roadworthy. It is currently at the Z shop in Glen Eris, I dropped it off monday night and not sure when it will be ready, its just in for a basic service and inspection. The weekends are proving too short to get anything done on the car very quickly and its already been over 3 weeks of driving my gf's car to work and dropping her off at the train station which is inconveniencing both of us. You are probably right, I should have bought a cheap run around but a running Z has so much appeal when you have 2 that dont

I did fix that pass button while I had it off, it had snapped. I will see what I can come up with when I get the car back.

I may have a crack and reco'ing the carb'd L26 but for the L28ET, I dont want to take responsibilty for that one. What I have been advised more correctly (and not by shops) is that it will cost more in correct tools and equipment to get all the tolerences right etc than to pay a workshop. Opinions?

Its the standard wheel, I think i need to open up the assembly as the stalk/indicator switch is physically not catching well in either direction. You know in modern cars how the indicator snaps into place? well there is none of that, its just a sloppy lever. As for the the indicator cancel switches most of you are referring to (where the turn signals cancel when you turn the wheel back towards centre after turning), I didnt even know they existed on these cars so they definately arent working either in this or any other Z i have owned.

I think its closer to $700

I removed the assembly last weekend but didnt diassemble it. The problem is that i push the lever down and it doesnt catch, often releasing back to the neutral position.

Or if you have a couple extra $50's No one wants to have much to do with issuing a certifcate for a 260Z though...too much liability i guess. Back on topic, the EGR gear etc required for the later motors, is it really of any major restriction? As for engine internals, who would know.

Basically its easier to build an earlier car/motor as you have less stringent ADR's to comply with, emissions being the key word. I think I have a link to the ADRs at home. AAhh.....just had a look at Ben's link, wonder if its going to be possible to get a roadworthy on my 1977 with 240Z carbs.

Ash?

I dont think anything is "illegal" as long as you get the car engineered to suit.

Whel this is a bit more mechanical than electrical, has anyone got any info or links on modification to the actual lever/stalk to make it actually stay down and mantain the connection whilst trying to turn rather than float back the neutral/centre?

Yeh, it is a headache. Basically my reasoning is that the 2+2 L28 has all the lines/plumbing/wiring etc that my shell doesnt plus it shares an identical engine bay so it would be a much easier swap to carry it over into the shell, especially for a first attempt. The 1977 has all the standard plumbing and lines it would just be a matter of wiring which would lead to be an easier swap allowing use of a 280zx donor or perhaps just a motor and loom.

Are you talking about replacing with new parts? How much does an electronic distributor go for and how much effort is it to fit? Car was a no go this morning again after around 5 attempts even after a good day of driving yesterday. Had to pop the hood and turn up the idle again to get the car to start, still took around 4 attempts but each was almost there.

Express publications I think. I was set on putting an RB25 into one of my Z's but costs and effort led me to highlyworked L28 NA plan. One day i went down to have a chat a Speed Technology and Sinisha's car was sitting there in the workshop and Steve gave me a quick look. Instantly my RB plans were back on the table but then the cost and effort worked its way back into the equation so I met it halfway with an L28ET. My suspension I beleive is similar to whats used in that car.

I have a f54/p90 L28E i want to save for the turbo setup unless i can find another. I dont really want to inject or spend money on the L26, im happy to just run the carbs i think while i finish the silver car off, then I will strip the '77 and put the turbo in that. Ideally i could find another f54/p90 to turbo so i could swap the complete existing f54/p90 L28E into my shell with all the wiring plumbing etc I already have from the running L28E 2+2 i have. Its complicated