drunkenmaster

hmmm....actually you may be right. To get it running the first time we scrubbed the plugs and cleaned the distributor contacts which where caked in white oxidisation, i then charged up the battery and it started fine. I assumed it was the battery still but now that we think about it, the battery charge may have done nothing and it was the quick electrical clean that may have done it. We cleaned the contacts with a flathead screwdriver but maybe i should get some emery paper and do it properly. I have the standard mech. distributor, 240z carbs and the car drives very well once started/warm. The idle is a bit high when warm due to how i have to set it to warm it up/start it up and it often sticks requiring a quick thrttle tap to let it get back to idle. I'll check the choke out again also, Im not too familiar with carbs and choke sytems etc yet, but it doesnt look too complex.

Yeh, I have spoken to Warren a couple of times, he wanted $500 for one of his better L28's motor only. I have seen 280zx's with body damage go for a grand or less so it seems like a good option as you get all the electric upgrades you need.

Ive noticed the clicking but never heard it change sound, definately something I will try, thanks.

My 260Z is having issues starting when left for a day or two, once i do get it going it will only be able to start itself for around 12-24 hours after being shut down. The starter seems to be going quite strong all the time, there is just no sign of the engine turning over. At first I thought the battery was on its way out but my multimeter showed it holding a good 12V even when the car was not starting. To confirm this I jump started the car this morning and even with 13.5V provided from the good car it still was struggling and took several attempts, although a bit more convincingly than on its own. The only way I can get it to start is to hook it up to a running good car and turn the idle screw right up and crank it a few times, it will then cough to life followed by the roar of a 3000rpm idle. Pumping the gas and the choke dont seem to have any effect, infact the choke doesnt seem to do much at all although I have checked and it moves the linkages under the bonnet. I dont claim to be a mechanic but I am slowly learning, opinions of the more experienced would be great.

Who has used where and what are their impressions? Pleas be as honest and brutal as legailty permits PM me if its too bad I would like a few people opinions for a couple reasons: a) I need to get my 1977 Z roadworthy asap and as much as I like tinkering with it its costing me too much to have it off road so it would be in my best interest to dump it somewhere for a major service/tune/inspection. I will be having a pair of L28's rebuilt and have been informed that for best results, dont use my back yard, so again another one for the pro's.

Thanks. Yeh im just going to do one at a time, get my '77 roadworthy and drive that while I build the '74, then when the '74 is done take the '77 off the road to do that. Im on the lookout for a cheap 82-83 280zx now for another EFI motor as i wanna save my f54/p90 for the turbo ....I know I could buy a motor and the rest in bits, but im sick of chasing after bits.

Yeh, I will give an oil change a shot. It doesnt effect shifting, more just my curiosity as all of my Z's have done it but no other car I have ever driven,

Nah, he wasnt interested ages ago. Anyways i think I am going to bite the bullet and keep both, build the silver one NA and then when thats running take the other one off the road and build it turbo.

Since your clutching at straws I may as well too. WTB: F54 block L28E or L28ET or cheap car (260Z/28zx etc) with either fitted.

All 3 of my 260Z's have made this noise, you can feel it through the resistance in the gear stick when down shifting and hear the corresponding high frequency "spinning" noise. Its not a problem, Im just curious about it though.

As a few of you know I am selling my project to undertake another, if not very similar one: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8842 The only reason I am selling it is the fact that I need to get a car road registered ASAP and dont have the finances to build two. I have spent a lot of my own time on this car as well as paid a fair amount of cash so obviously its a tough decision. If anyone knows anyone who may be interested it would really help me out. Thanks guys

After forgetting what is was like to actually drive a working Z car I have a few little questions after finally getting one on the road again. Is there any way to stop the shock/kick/clunk of the diff when shifting? We get a similar isue in our Z31 but its more pronounced in the 260Z. The spings in the clutch I beleive are meant to absorb the shock down the driveshaft so would alterning these help? What about a new rubber diff mount to replace the existing strap? Also what is the soft whirring/whinning noise from the gearbox when you slide the gear in when downshifting? I remember one of my other Z's did this and my new one just reminded me. Hardly technical and possobly stupid questions, but they are on my mind all the same

A big decing factor for me was if the enigne bay will be repainted... If so there is a bunch of mechanical items you can do while the enigne is out as you dont want to have it out twice. This further mixes up the paint or body first plan..

Well, really you can look for the obvious things like rust but if the owner is dishonest most flaws can be concealed/patched up. If you interested in using the motor in it, take it for a drive and perhaps get a mechanic to look over it. Look at the body for obvious rust or repairs, look that the gaps between all the panels are even as an indicator of some repairs or damage. Look under the car around the frame rails that run parallel down the car. Usually it is hard to see rust here due to sound deadening but if you can see rust through the deadener then its a sure sign that its bad. Areas to look are in front of the rear wheels, under the spare tyre, under the footwell carpets, battery area, flat deck area above the tail lights witht he hatch open, and if you get a chance to see in the drainage area in front of the windscreen.

its the car in my gallery and in my avatar. gunmetal colour.

I have lots of spares I have bought for the car along the way I could throw in only if I get my asking price as they cost around a grand by themselves. They include: Average spare doors complete with all good door trims/handles/latches/glass Average hatch complete with glass, chrome trim and lock/latch Average dash with instruments Good Seats with rails Rear 1/4 windows Most interior trims and more NOTE: will not seperate

As i mentioned before, i put myself in this stupid position. I sold the mirage almost a month ago as I was offered a very reasonable price on it. Mistake? maybe. A week later of course I got a new job which requires me to drive to work, no public transport. I needed a daily driver bad and bought this 1977 260Z to fill the duties as it looked to be close to roadworthy BUT it arrived and almost nothing worked and it had trouble starting and idling. I spent the weekend working on it and have all the electrics up again and the car runs quite well now after playing with the carbs with a friend. We took it for a blast this afternoon and it was great, I miss having a complete Z car and want to get this one back into top shape but I cant afford to have 2 projects. The 1977 need rust repair before it can be roadworthy and it is going to be pricey, Zworx want $900 for repro doglegs including fitting. So here I am in a rock and a hard place/chicken and the egg situation with still no car tomorrow to drive me to work. Have to borrow the gf's AGAIN for the 3rd week running and she has to catch the train. (No public transport to my work). Basically i want to get the 1977 registered but I dont like doing half assed repairs nor do I want to put serious money into a car im not going to keep. Bloody hell

I have 3x Z cars all of which are unroadworthy or undrivable and all my money is tied up in them. This combined with the fact I dont have a daily driver anymore makes for a very inconvenient position i put myself in. Its not a big deal if I cant sell it because I will still build it otherwise.

Hi, Im located in Melbourne, looking at perhaps selling my shell; www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Z.html It features a professional bare metal respray in 2pack paint and all rust repairs done. It also has deleted rear bumper mounts, locks and side indicators as well as a tab welded inside the fuel filler door to allow a modern solenoid release. I have also stripped the underbody to shiney metal in preperation for rust proofing, it is not often you get to see clean metal under there before buying a car to ensure no frame rust. It comes along with fan unit, front and rear suspension, recent shocks, urethane front bushes, R200 diff and other odds and ends. Im looking at the $5k AUD mark which is pretty much the cost of a professional respray and you get the shell for free. Great for those with a rusted car or those planning their hybrid engine swap.

why would you want to do this... EFI has the potential to give you better fuel consumption, reliability, cold start and power...plus you can tune it once and then leave it alone forever. To do it thought will be quite simple I imagine, simply rip off the efi intake manifold and half the cars wiring related to it and the computer. Fit your carbs and linkages and grab the choke cable etc from a parts car...

I was of the beleif that the F54 block was the turbo block along with the P90 head. The N42 block and head were the NA L28 combo. Not that there is too much difference in the blocks mind you aside from the slight strengthening....

My latest Z's turn signals dont work either. They all work fine using the hazard switch but using the stalk does nothing. I removed it and it was spotless, very clean and almost looked new. I couldnt spot any obvious faults or bad joints so I am confused. Also the reverse lights dont work... Any advice would be great

I have 2 seater 260Z's, a 1974 restored shell and a original but complete 1977. Would consider selling either one so I can focus on the other.

Thanks, which side of the city are you? There are some problems with the electrics as well, plus a very noisy fuel pump...have to have a Z intensive weekend.

Its being delivered to my house for a small fee. Was too much hastle trying to organise picking it up from the depot on the other side of the city during business hours while i am working Will let you know how I go for sure :classic: