drunkenmaster

It is cuong's old 260Z. I bought it for a daily driver as I got offered a good price on my trusty mitsubishi and sold it. Basically I want to tune it up and get it past roadworthy and take it from there. EFI is definately the way to go, I have an EFI motor for my other car but Im not trying to spend too much on this car just yet til i work out what I am doing.

And to dive even further off track, does this look like a decent buy? Grimer Diagnostic Tune up Analyzer, ES Pro dual beam inductive timing light, both with inst. books, PCond will not sep $51 lot

I dont know, extra, new, project, daily driver, parts car, its all blending into one. The Z's are getting out of control. It should arrive tomorrow and apparently the 240Z round top carbs fitted to the L26 are in a poor state of tune, hence all the q's about what fuel to use because whatever i fill it up with is what i am going to have a crack tuning it with. Since I have side tracked myself, where in Melbourne (or possibly interstate) can you pick up a Unisyn and perhaps a ColorTune. From my reading these 2 tools and a lot of fiddling are all that is required for a decent tune up?

Old motor as far as i know....it is seperate to my project 260Z, this is my other other 260Z i just bought last week making a total of 3 :stupid:

Im not really in it for the power, more the fact that I hear many people claim LRP is a poor quality fuel.

VH commodore??? thats an unpleasant thought... i assumed VH as in VH45DE...

Thanks guys, The motor in question is a carb'd standard L26, not my L28ET. So perhaps alternate Optimax and LRP due to the standard seats?

Dont know about better engine, i think the VH45DE 4.5L quad cam V8 would go rather nicely.

Since I am soon to be back in the world of running Z's (courtesy of a recent purchase from a fellow aussie member) I am curious to what fuel you guys run? LRP? Optimax? 3 tanks Optimax then 1 tank LRP? etc etc Thanks

from experience you are looking at around $100-$200AU to ship a well packed bumper around Australia and $800-$1000AU to ship it to the USA. I have done both several times and these are private account prices, not business. Hope it helps you guys out.

Well, i guess there are downfalls to any method and having the car on stands or a rotisserie. My pet peeve of having the car on stands and working on my back is worming my way along the underside of the car only to have pointy wires that have shot off the wire wheel embed themselves into my back.

I am using anglegrinder/wire wheel. You can click the link in my signature for pics. I find manouvering myself under the car is the most time consuming part, the actual grinding is quite quick. What I would give for a rotissirie...

I have found a knowledgable guy to help me build the internals, i am more curious about fitment of suitable shafts now.

I have an R200, but i am hearing different R200 LSD's from different cars accept different splines etc etc

Im looking at picking up a 3.7 R200 from a wrecker and perhaps getting some extra plates put in to increase the break away torque. Any comments from the pros in regards to this? Also are there any issues with fitting the LSD to the standard 260Z shafts? Thanks

Thanks for the PM. Still will take a 280zx workshop manual though, if not just for the turbo notes.

bump bump bump... Still after one of these, anyone know if it covers the turbo models?

A Z im looking to buy has rust here, how do you fasten replacement panels? Stupid question, but where to the welds go or do you weld it everywhere and grind it back to paint over.

The exhaust casting is: F5 *KN4 81 Y Anyone got a source to find out what these mean. I have a photo of another manifold which has 82 in place of 81 so perhaps this is the year as the turbo 280zx was an 81-83 car i think.

I think http://www.zworx.com.au/ fabricate the small panel your talking about.

Well i have stripped my inner wheel arch and found nothing but shiny metal, so I hope the other side I cant see is the same http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Zunderbodystrip_cleanarch.html

Well, a turbo is always going to be faster for many reasons including that it helps compensate for the outdated head design, but there is something inherently cool about a highly tuned NA L28, preferably with independant throttle bodies I will check out the casting numbers today and post them up. The inlet manifold pictured seems to be some sort of mock up to run the system on a carbureted car I think?

Is there no real way of telling what lies beneath other than drilling/cutting out the panel?

http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Zturbo_turbobought.html purchased from a fellow member fo the forums. A bit fo surface rust but nothing some sandblasting and HPC coating wont fix.

I just looked in your gallery and I saw a car identical to yours in Melboure over the weekend, looked very tidy, identical colour and all. Was tempted to leave the ol' "do you wanna sell?" note on the windscreen.