drunkenmaster

Stripping of the underbody deadener has revealed past frame rail and floor repairs. Going on photos alone (if possible) could i get any feed back on how suitable/professional these repairs are? Thanks

Ok, i know the photo is bad but the camera doesnt want to focus this close to the ground, will try and take a better one soon. Anyhow this seem where the firewall, floorpan and transmission tunnel meet seems like a great place for rust to set in and it looks like it has in my car. It also looks like someone has tried to repair this with new metal but the rust is still present. I just found this today after stripping off the deadener, I will get a fine tipped wire brush attachment and try and clean up the rust in the crevices/holes a bit to get an idea of how bad it is in the next few days. Any opinions or ideas spring into anyones minds from the photo? Looking for other peoples input on how bad it looks.

Or is there something unnaturally sensual about the bare metal of a Z... Or maybe I have spent too long out under the car, more photos on my website in my signature

have you seen the car even? maybe your rebuit motor is ok if the bonnet was kept shut, probably most panels too.

intersted in the bonnet, picture of the bonnet and the bump would be great, whats the bump from thanks PS what state is the wreck in, anything able to be salvaged? or does insurance keep it if you make a claim right?

then american nissans have some very tasty V8's, the thought of a VH45DE 4.5 V8 in a Zed was was brought me into the whole zed scene in the first place.

2+2's are the trouble of my life!! everytime i see a good 260 advertised, 80% of the time a phone call reveals its a 2+2 :stupid: I need a 2 seater, different trims and door frames.

My budget is $2k and that includes trying to offload the shell If your willing to sell yours for that let me know :cheeky: Unfortunately I dont need spoilers/lips/alloy wheels or the rebuilt L26 which makes your car more expensive, but im sure they are of no use to you without the car.

Thought i'd try again. Im after a preferably running complete late 260z. Rust is not an issue, im after mechanicals and trims. The catch is im not willing to spend big money on what by any other account is a wreck. Help! :cross-eye

It eludes me again...

The 260 heater controls and the comfort/appearence and functionality of the later interior wins hands down in my opinion. The triple guages of the 240 look better how the 'roof' is more angled and I am partial to the 240 tail lights, so much so that i was going to fit them to my 260 but i have scrapped that idea. Trading post tomorrow! fingers crossed for that elusive bargain parts car

They dont look bad, considering they will be spending most of their lives covered in brake dusts and road grime anyhow Im just having a hard time I guess having a non body colour brush finish on the inside of my floor pan....nice slippery 2 pack paint would be nice

Rather than play around with heating and freezing etc i got right at it yesterday with a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder. After about 2 hours I had done the outer half of the passenger underside and 3/4 of the passenger rear wheel well. The work itself is not very hard, the hard part is manouvering yourself under the car. Now i see why people swear by rotisseries. I have the car up on 40cm jack stands and while it is adequate, it aint easy. Also the dust/particles from the underbody go everywhere (as i was told as well), I had a face shield and breather mask and its still got all over my face and neck, hands and overalls. Spent a good 15 minutes cleaning out of my ears Took a break today as I have to go out for dinner tonight, but hopefully will have it all done this week.

Yeh, but that was $10k. As for the dash, search user nixcars gallery on this forum, his Zed features an s14 200sx dash I think, looks very tidy and modern/funtional. Up to personal taste I guess but i think it's good.

Guess that puts you prime candidate to check it out

Its not mine, just posting the ad i found. yahoo.com.au tells me Morningside is in QLD You expect a bit of body work required when you buy a zed dont ya

DATSUN 240Z, PROJECT car, SR20 turbo, EMS computer, 5speed, Heavy duty clutch, lightened and balanced flywheel, R200 slippery diff, 3inch stainless exhaust, Tomie quickshift, new pumps, rebuilt rear end, 16inch 5 spoke mags and tyres, 180SX dash, running and dynoed, very quick, suit panelbeater or Datsun 1600 fan, 70perc. complete -$5750 Morningside (0412) 426 355 Looks like a good deal to me, wish i didnt have so much already invested in my 260..

Saw it on the weekend...definately rubbing. Photos can be deceiving

Thanks for clearing that up, I think must guys over here call it that too....its just me and Mr. Haynes

Well if you want to play that game you could also point out the nuts on the spindle pin and lock bolt are missing and "unsafe" too... What would really be unsafe about driving my car now is that the rear struts, diff and driveshafts are all on the floor in my garage......including the handbrake cables :cross-eye Anyhow.... So is what im calling a transverse link what you call a control arm?

Hmmm.... so in this picture, I see a 1) strut and rear drum brake assembly 2) a halfshaft/driveshfat 3) spindle pin 4) transverse link http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=37792 what do others see? :classic: which or what is the control arm if it is not the transverse link? I dont know what Australian or American terminolgy is, I just use the names in my Haynes manual which could be half my problem.

Was originally intending Carl, but progress pics of yours would be good too

Do you have any photos you could stick in your gallery?

Whats the finish on the chassis coat like? Did you spray on or brush on? Does it resemble paint in the sense that it is thin enough to show signs of future rust (well as much as 2pack paint would anyhow) Thanks

What did you put over the POR on the inside? This is my biggest problem...