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drunkenmaster

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Everything posted by drunkenmaster

  1. drunkenmaster replied to Aussie260z's post in a topic in Fuel Injection
    I have seen them mounted around the area where the stock low pressure pump is. I dont have any photos unfortunately. Many cars do this in australia as it is illegal in some (all?) states to have them in the cabin.
  2. drunkenmaster replied to Aussie260z's post in a topic in Fuel Injection
    Yep, which i dont think would be cost effective to import. My opinion is that using an external pump and a surge tank under the car shouldn't set you back too much and is better then chasing an obscure bolt in tank that is 30 years old anyway.
  3. drunkenmaster replied to Aussie260z's post in a topic in Fuel Injection
    no Z as far as i am aware had a surge tank, especially a carbie'd one. My '77 sure didnt, and there would be no need for one with the fuel sitting in the carbs.
  4. Is it possible for you to post some pictures?
  5. That add looks perfect Rick, however I wonder if I should bite the bullet and use dynamat or is the extra expense just a waste of money....hmmm EDIT: I went down to Dandenong today and it was a seedy little run down place which suprised me from the website. They did not do half of the deadening on their website and only sold a non adhesive pink felt mat with a layer of bitumen sandwhiched in the middle.
  6. Looks nice. I have heard of some things done using Z32 CV shafts but not enough to comment on how good they are.
  7. Any idea on costs? To suit 240z hubs only?
  8. Let me know how you go, I know Speed Technology in Melbourne have fitted CV's to a couple Z's, not sure how. I have the dr30 cv shafts with my r200 which I need to sort out as well
  9. Mike (and others), what did you use to cut the deadening to shape as well as make holes for metal brackets etc? Last time I did this on another car I ended up gumming up a pair of scissors and a craft knife with sticky bitumen from the centre of the deadener.
  10. I actually have that one as well, it is considerably shorter then the one I am using. I took me a good part of Monday afternoon to work out what was going on before I realised I must have parts from two different model cars. The one I require is closer to 20cm. I will take some pictures of everything I have tonight, it may clear things up for people in the future as well because it sure had me confused for a while.
  11. No worries, Thanks for your help. Mine works now (I ground off the bent portion) but it is about 2mm's too short and the handbrake does not fully release. I am sure i will sort it out.
  12. Thanks Mike, pics are great. I am not sure if I will extend as far onto the floors as you have, I think my paranoia will require me to be able to check the floors for rust every so often but it looks very good, have you had a chance to compare its effectiveness?
  13. Here it is, we are looking at the threaded long bolt:
  14. I will take a photo tonight when I get home, my car being a '77 260Z I think may be different. The part your pointing to in the pic is actually 2 peices on my car I beleive. Thanks for the help so far
  15. hmmm...hard to tell from the photo and my memory from oh, yesterday. From memory there are 2 long sections in this assembly. 1) has a pivot fork on one side to mount to the front hand brake lever and a welded nut on the other side to join the the rear. 2) has a bolt head on one side to stop it sliding all the way through the rear handbrake cable lever and a threaded end which threads into the part 1) above. I need the part number 2) The thing that is confusing me about the photo above is that it has a fork on one side and maybe a threaded on the other? It is hard to tell as it maybe be partially assembled and also quite dirty Thanks for running around on this one.
  16. Wow, I am not sure I have ever seen that before but it is similar to what I want, I guess you are right in guessing that is a longer 2+2 version. That part I need is just the threaded bolt at the end that slides though one of the pivot points and links to the other arm, turning it will tighten the handbrake cable. It is about 20cm long and is pretty much just a long skinny bolt. Mine was bent when I got the car. Thanks
  17. Does anyone have more pictures of the orginal matting? I cant remember how it all fitted especially in regard to thinks like pedal boxes mountgin over the top i.e. does this mat sandwich between anything bolted to the firewall or was it cut in those places.
  18. Thanks Will, but I imagine international post for such a small peice would be a nuisance?
  19. Does anyone have either a parts car or a whole heap of spare parts? I am after a part that not many people would hang onto unless still it the car i would imagine: The long threaded bolt/linkage which connects the main handbrake lever to the handbrake cable lever. Thanks
  20. I would be interested to know how much they charge if you do find out. Thanks
  21. Yeh, its best to buy a Z that had already had the majority of what you want done already at the previous owners expense. This is however, quite rare and made even rarer when you get too fussy like I did.
  22. Motor went in a while ago and was promptly removed again when the gearbox didnt fit between the mounting points. Got the diff reco'd, almost put that in but looked at the canvas strap and thought, maybe not. An adjustable stay has since arrived from Alan Stean in QLD. Plan to take some measurements of the firewall, floors and doors and order some dynamat, so I get get cracking on installing all the interior parts and pedals etc. If only it wasnt so cold out in the garage...and I hadnt been so busy wasting time and money buying a house.
  23. As long as DIY means fabricating your own sump, engine mounts, gearbox mount, modify your own trunsmission tunnel, wire all the electrics, build your own tailshaft, do your own CV conversion, do all your own lines and upgrade your own suspension and brakes to suit, and fabricating and welding any replacement rusts panels then it is remotely possible to do this, as well as properly respray the car but still doubtful for $15k. I would say you will find a lot of arts that need renewal along the way and the supply alone cost will be in the thousands. The cheapest quality respray will still cost around $3000 without major bodywork. All rusted panels will need to be sectioned and replacements fabricated, otherwise the money on the respray is a waste of time.
  24. Like I said, there were a couple on carpoint.com.au just a week or so ago, there was a nice silver one but it looks lik its gone now. The copper one is still there.

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