drunkenmaster

There were some nice Z's around the $15k mark on carpoint.com.au or carsales.com.au recently. $15k will get you not very far at all, especially if your paying for labour. I have spent a lot more than that and have been doing all but the bodywork myself. As for 180sx's, they are over 10 years old now and a drift favourite, so I wouldnt buy one without having an extra $5k in reserve for repairs.

If i am reading it correctly, I think the answer is that different model cars had a different diameter rod. This is what Noltec explained to me when I was purchasing/choosing my bushes from their selection.

Thanks guys, I am pretty familiar with what a lot of the audio guys use, but was interested to see what Z enthusiasts use who care about preserving the car as well as just stopping the rattles. I was thinking of using a product like dynamat/brownbread/serenity-max etc, Ideally I didnt want to adhere anything to my nice new paint but I guess for best results that is unavoidable. It should also prevent water to metal contact to some degree also. As for putting the fabric based insulation over the top, that is an idea also but I was questioning the OEM style material as it is not in full contact with the firewall, therefore not really adding and mass etc. James

Hi Guys, The time has come to start refitting the interior components to my car and I just remembered about the factory sound deadening on the firewall that I removed when it was stripped. Now this stuff was in pretty poor shape and looked like it was holding water, so what have you guys used as a substitute? I was going to skip it, then I thought in the end it would be nice to eliminate some engine noise. Pics would be great. Thanks James

Here is a pic of what I used as described above, no heat was required where as the tierod ends required an oxy torch at a suspension shop to get them glowing before they would move on the rack thread.

I used a ball joint seperating tool which had two fingers which locate on the knuckle and a opposing third finger which pushed the ball joint through by winding a bolt on the opposite side. Worked great for the ball joints, popped them right out after sufficient pressure/winding. I used this tool as I could not find the pickle forks which seem to be so popular in the states. I also used this to seperate the outer tierod joints front the knuckle but not without destroying the tool as they were well and truly seized. The head of the bolt sheared off the tool before the joint would pass though, however the tool, firmly clamped in place made an excellent striking point for the BFH, which did the job in the end.

The"clamshell" fix methods above will interferre with the reinstallation of this weight. Does a clamshell bracket or fixed strap replacement negate the need for this weight?

Thanks for the detailed opinions guys. My front diff mount also featured a large steel counterweight of some kind that bolts to the bottom of the crossmember. Is this also an attempt to address this problem?

If I dont get any positive feed back I will just use the strap I think. I am not entirely clear on the role of the strap in the first place due to the diff already being firmly bolted to its front crossmember. It doesnt appear it could go anyhere with or without the strap.

I was cleaning up my diff strap ready to fit my LSD and remembered this item. What are peoples thoughts on using something like this vs. the OEM diff strap. Thanks

I know its a 240C, but someone may be interested in this ad: For Sale - 1UZFE 240C project no time to work on it at all with the new bub - its just been sitting there for a number of months now. its engineered to this point and only needs final certification ($250). it doesnt even need a brake test. modified volvo automatic shifter. rack and pinion steering conversion is great and works a treat with only 1.0mm toe at full bump/rebound. has new tie rod ends and unis on the steering shaft too. 100% engineered. tailshaft is complete with new unis, centre carrier and splines and a full balance. gearbox has a tiptronic controller to control the std auto - shifting is via the horn buttons. pod filter and mild steel piping (have a volvo airbox if you prefer) chev 4 core radiator with twin 10in davies craig thermos hooked up to run full time. can be modded to run on a temp switch if need be. fuel system is a pierburg feeding a 1.5L anti-surge tank with a bosch feeding the engine. using std 240C feed and return lines (may want to upgrade). interior is mint original with charcoal sheepskins and charcoal carpets. Engine is modified to run a Delco computer as a sponsorship deal - and the fitting and tuning will be provided free by Alan Gibbs at Injection Perfection, all you need to pay for is a new module ($250) & new O2 sensor ($70). he will also wire up the tiptronic auto at the same time. exhaust isnt done. cant get a quote from locals because i have no time. CARLINE in osborne park, and TIM SLAKO racing have expressed a lot of interest in making some mandrel headers and exhaust. alternator may need new bearings - is a little squeaky. needs serpentine belt radiator hoses throttle cable coolant oil filter all the hard work is done. this was quoted as a $12,000 drive in, tow-out-with-no-computer-deal by 2 perth workshops. all welding by qualified and currently employed boilermakers. looking for $4500 firm - basically i just want back what i have spent or will look at swap with a VERY GOOD CONDITION 1000, 1200 or 1600 sedan - something along the lines of Cals 1000 (minus webers, of course!). pics at www.freewebs.com/pro240c/ thanks for looking. Car Identification: P230 Cedric Price: $4000 ono Location: Karrinyup WA Contact: Aaron Email: pro240c@ozdat.com Phone: 0423 972 359

Thanks Steve

Its a 3.9 clutch pack LSD. I got it reco'd with an extra plate to bring it to 45lb/ft which I think I will be happy with but I was just checking what other guys are doing.

What sort of break away torque are you guys running for street cars in your LSD's? I see a few cars running 80-90ft but I think this may be too much for the street. Thanks

Everything has arrived now, please PM me if you are interested. RB25DET gearbox cross member has been cancelled due to being impossible to fabricate as a bolt on part for sale, transmission tunnel must be modified instead. RB20DET gearbox can be done easily with a simple cut and weld of the crossmember however I am not using this box and do not have a chance to produce them. It is an easy job that can be done at home or at least the measurements done at home and then taken to a workshop for welding.

hehe, thats one of my old cars in that photo...I have seen it spring up all over the web.

On my cars I just unscrewed the nut til the bottom of the thread (to protect the thread from impact), applied a bit of oil and knocked the locking bolt upward which should knock it loose. Then the bolt was undone and the bolt pushed out by hand. The bolt itself is not round, it has a flat locating edge which stops both it and the spindle pin from spinning.

Sorry, I should have explained the photo. If you look at the very bottom of the tie rod joint you can see the grease squeezing out between the black part and the metallic part.

So anyways, when fitting my new outer tie rods ends, I noticed they had the grease overflow nipple provision mentioned. I packed them with grease and it seems to overflow from the bottom before the boot fills. This wouldnt appear correct to me? :stupid:

I think the mounts may be different, I never really come across RB26 blocks to test. If you can find out if RB30/RB25 etc mounts fit an RB26 then you should get an idea. I think Stoney used a 200ZR sump which I have however.

I did get some but they had to be modified a bit to make them work. The ones I am using now fit well on my motor/car and are the same as which I will provide with the mounting kit I am assembling if interest ever gets off the ground

OK, mounts and sump fit great. Unfortunately still waiting on the correct oil pick up to arrive and also will look into fabricating gearbox crossmember. Will update with more photos as I get time, the motor is now in the car with no dramas using these parts however the lack of a gearbox mount is really letting me down at the moment.

I am not sure on the lines, but I have not heard of anyone changing them. I will be changing mine as I mucked them up trying to bend them around by frame rail extensions. Front brakes would be the big issue, as for rears I would talk to your local state automotive engineers as to what they would consider sufficient.

Nissan GQ RB30 patrol has the sump I think your refering to however it has an extra capacity section at the rear which hangs lower than normal which may or may not be ok, but looks like a road damage risk to me especially on a lowered car. Chances are you will need a custom drive shaft. You can use the motors EFI loom and ECU with no dramas. Surge tanks and high pressure EFI pump are the basics of what you need for fuelling, i havent heard of people upgrading the lines. Bigger front brakes would be advisable at the least I would think.

I will be fitting mine this weekend actually so should have photos and updates by Monday. I have the parts now but want to use them myself first to assure myself and others that they work. I do not have a gearbox crossmember yet as it will depend on which gearbox you use, the one I will have eventually will suit RB25DET gearbox but this may be delayed depending on upcoming work travel plans.