drunkenmaster

Of course, I am with you 100% now (finally).

At the risk of sounding too "unknowlegable", how far to you insert the inner tie rod tot he outer tie rod? What is the method of measuring this as I would guess it would effect your steering, and also be a hassle to redo later as you would have to remove the joint from the steering arm to wind it further in or out?

Internet search for these companies: tyco sumitomo yazaki They should have all the connectors you require.

Thanks, mine dont have that feature unfortunately. From where was the grease forced out in your case Will?

Thanks, I havent checked if my tie rod joints have releif slits in the boots however I should have said in my previous post that I was in the process of filling the lower ball joint. These do not have relief slits and only seem to be sealed by the downward pressure from the steering arm, although likely not airtight, I am a bit concerned about splitting the boot.

Question: Do you pack the ball joints with grease until signs of overflow or less? Thanks

I think he means "everything in them" as in, everything in the doors:)

Its not expensive via sea, at bit pricey via the air. I would think well under $100 AUD through UPS. If the total value is kept under $1000AUD he shouldnt have ay problems with import taxes either.

What info is on the factory plate and is it a requirement to register a vehicle? During sand blasting both mine went missing but I went down to the workshop recently and found my compliance plate but didnt think of the factory plate.

Same thing happened to my brothers Z31, took me 2 days to work it out as he has 2 brake pedal switches, and the one in plain view and that was fully functioning is for the cruise control which I didnt realise until later. Anyhow once i saw the brake switch I noticed the stopper had perished also, I bought a new one from nissan which was $4 or so.

Great job, Wheel caps look good and my opinion is that either a polished finish or a gun-metal grey coating on the mesh wheels would come up nice.

Seriously, I don't know why you are offended so I am sorry for whatever I have done to you. I hope we can move on. (EDIT: Replying to an edited post)

cheers Z Kid.

I was just asking for ellaboration as obviously you have more experience on the topic than myself and I was wondering perhaps I do need to slide back the bellows? I wasnt aware I said anything to undermine you?!

Thanks guys, I will give it another shot however they seem pretty seized. I took note of the threading, but cant get either the lock nut or the outer tie rod to turn. The whole assembly is off the car. I tried using a vice on the outer tie rod end and using all my weight with a spanner on the lock nut with no luck, I tried 2 spanners, one of the lock nut and one on the tie rod end flats and couldnt really get enough leverage to use much force. Propane torch may be a last resort or chickening out all together and swinging by a local suspension and steering shop. I am also having a hard time with one of the outer tierod to steering arm joints. I bought a removing tool which you tighten a bolt to compress finger to bush the joint through, it worked great on the lower ball joints, sending them 2m (~6ft& 6in.) in the air when they finally let go, and it also popped out one tie rod joint no problems. But this last joint is adamant it doesnt want to move, the pressure actually started mushrooming the tools bold and sheering filings of the thread of the tool rather than moving the joint. I am confident I will get this one out eventually though. Perhaps I should have bought a pickle fork like you guys suggested but this tool was all the local parts store had. panchovisa, I wish to replace the outer tie rods and wasnt aware i need to slide back the bellows?

RE: outer tie rod ends. I am having a hell of a time getting them off. The idea is to turn the lock nut toward the centre of the rack and the tie rod end away from the rack correct? I have no idea how you guys get the leverage to do this. :sleepy: Pointers would be excellent.

I picked up a 3.9 R200 clutch LSD from a DR31 in SA. I havent checked it out yet, it is just sitting there as you can see.

Click on: POST REPLY scroll down below the text box to: ADDITIONAL OPTIONS click: MANAGE ATTACHMENTS upload your pics, cant wait to see them.

I mentioned unsafe cars, as well as bombs. The majority of the roadworthy inspection is unsafe items usually common on a neglected run down car. Fluid leaks, tyre wear, brake fade, lighting etc. There has to be a minimum standard set somewhere for everyones benefit. The discussion wasnt really about police however if your car complies to the rules you shouldnt have a problem with police either. Enthusiasts will accept that major modifications to a car are often outside of the operational design limits of many of the cars supporting systems and as such, need to be verified by a qualified automotive engineer. Design engineers spend years on each model and have stringent design rules as well as failure modes that all components have to pass, so for one example if you are thinking that a cheap set of coilovers made in indonesia based loosley on some other popular design is going to be automatically as safe, then I would disagree. As for EPA and pollution rules in regards to turbos and such, we all breathe our air and so will our kids. Not doing what you can to limit pollution is just plain selfish. The rules can be easily met with proper planning and well thought out design, sure it may not be the cheapest solution but it is the most socially responsible and if you cant afford to do it properly, then you shouldnt be doing it in the first place.

We have to tell our insurance company exactly what is fitted to our car otherwise that item is not covered and in the case that the item in question should not legally be fitted to the car/increases the value of the car/aided in causing an accident (i.e more power), then your insurance is essentially void and they wont pay as it was not part of the agreed policy. Much like we have conditions our cars have to comply to in order to be deemed roadworthy and legally used on the roads, essentially it tries to keep unsafe, polluting cars and bombs off the road.

Has anyone used Stewart Wilkins for suspension or parts in general? They list and adjustabel castor bush from Noltec that even Noltec does not list http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/suspension.htm Datsun 240/260Z Adjustable Castor Rod bushes - Noltec $29.25

A friend at work just got some very reasonable quotes on an SR20DET 1600 from shannons and unique cars. He is 24 though. If you go through with the RB30 conversion, I have engine mounts and brand new nissan 200ZR rear facing sump you will require, if your interested.

The front are PBR VT commodore calipers on merc brembo slotted rotors, the rear are XF Falcon. I can't take the credit for building them as I bought them already assembled from a friend who changed the direction of his project.

Excellent, thanks guys.

I have seen this done on a few control arms including my own which I bought like that. Why is the end loop cut like this? What does it offer?