drunkenmaster

Next is reco'ing the steering as per the steering discussion thread on these boards Then and only then may we finally see the RB30DET where it belongs, its almost in sight now

Oh wow, I didnt realise the whole outer rod is replaced, I thought it was the end joint only. Nice, Thanks.

Thanks, just to be clear, you have fitted the outer tie rod end to the tie-rod already in that picture right?

Sounds good, thanks

I think I answered my own question, tie rod ends as pictured are available for $40 to $50 AUD. Are their difference between LH and RH? The actual tie rod itself looks to be sturdy so when reconditioning the front end, the parts I am replacing so far are: lower ball joints control arm bushes outer tie rod ends radius rod bushed (perhaps castor adjustable) steering rack mount bushes steering coupling bush. possibly rack boots if mine dont come off well. Am I missing anything?

Thanks guys, always helpful.

Thanks, the nut was removed but I fitted it again to the end in fear of damaging the threads (spindle pin style). I gave the steering arm a few whacks but nothing too violent as I didnt want to damage it. It is held on fairly firmly. Your steering rack is very nice, I will have to lift my game I think. I havent seen a "pickle fork" but it sounds like a good idea from what I imagine it to be. Does anyone have a photo of a replacemnt tie rod end? I want to get a grasp of what exactly is replaced and what I can sacrifice.

Been slack since Christmas and getting back form Japan. Finally got my modified crossmember back on after having the grind back the control arm bush crush tubes to fit the washers that were welded behind the new holes, wasnt impressed with the engineering there. Anyways, heres a look at the front suspension and brakes finally sitting on.

Guys, I am not sure what this steering joint is called but how on earth do you seperate the "steering arm" from the tie rod. I have circled the joint I wish to disassemble. Are these joints readily available and what is there proper name? I removed the castle nut but the "steering arm" seems fairly seized and with the joint able to freely move, there is no way I can see to get decent leverage. Haynes manual refers to using a ball joint removal tool but I am not sure what they are. Any pointers would be great. James

These things are a very rough guide to your actual A/F if I am not mistaken

I just happen to be doing similar things on this side of the globe. Nothing more to say on what you have said, but here are some photos anyhow.

No problems, I am still waiting for some bits and peices to arrive from overseas, but once I have them all I woll update this thread and notify those interested. Thanks

Brand loyalty aside, if I was to use a V8 I would use the largest capacity V8 that would fit, when the VH45DE and 1UZ are the same price at a wreckers, basically the same size and the same basic difficulty to fit, I would go for the extra 0.5 displacement. If you were going for a straight six I would and have gone for a hybrid RB30DET, that or a RB26DETT. The reason being availability of parts as well as the great interchangeability between nissan equipment. I have the head from and RB25DE, block from an RB30E and gearbox from an RB25DET with tailshaft and R200 LSD from a DR30 skyline. All bolt together with no fuss however the tailsjaft may be a little long for the Z. A six speed box behind the Supra motor would be cool also, but it would be a lot more work/expense I would say.

Not hard to come by, but for the easiest swap you would want an RB25DE but you will not get VCT. I would look for the whole motor for $100-$200 more with loom and ECU, saves hunting later.

I would like to see the article comparing the VH45DE with the 1UZ as I am sure the extra 0.5L displacement would come in handy, or even the smaller VH41DE. I have seen the 1UZ in a 260Z, I was going to put a late model V8 in mine until I saw how much clearance there was. I know they will fit, but I wouldnt say they would fit just fine :classic:

VH45DE, VH41DE, RB26DETT etc etc The problem with all the V8's is there is no manual box and custom bellhousings are expensive. It sounds like you need to do more research, take some measurements etc as with both the nissan VH and toyota 1UZ, your only going to have a few cm clearance on each side of the engine bay, no room for error.

The electric pump is fine to fill the surge tank.

I understand. However I have upgraded my suspension and brakes to suit my non standard motor. Since these items were being visted anyway, I added height adjustable coilovers to the struts. Now when I set the height to what I feel to be optimum, I am sure this will end up being lower than standard ride height which from my experience will add negative camber, likely too much which will go past the point of aiding cornering and just wear out the inners of my tyres. The main reason I want to add adjustability to camber is so I can correct this, and while the whole front end is apart in my garage, now is the best time to do it. I agree solid bushes are not the way to go on a road car, I was not aware initially that they were solid. I am not real keen in sectioning my control arms or slotting my strut towers either. I have OEM rubber bushes to go in now, so I suppose I will just have to wait and see how it all comes together.

I am trying to establish the best route for a street car and which local suppliers sell what.

I will have to discuss that with the local authorites. The beauty of an adjustable bush or camber bolt used on newer cars is no one knows that they are there. I am not sure what it is like in the USA but my car will be extensively reviewed by an automotive engineer approved by the road authorites when I try and road register it due to its significant deviation from standard and I am worried that cut and shut control arms or adjustable twoer plates will not pass safety requirements/design rules. I will have to consult them.

geez, thats a fairly strong opinion but short of adjustable control arms which is a fairly extensive modficiation in my opinion, I dont see how else to correct the camber due to the lower ride height my new suspension will provide. Good food for thought though, thanks for your $0.0263189 AUD

Turns out the ones available here are also solid. Hopefully it doesnt translate into too much of a ride comfort difference.

Thanks guys, The offset bushings I was considering were hopefully not of solid construction like the ones above. Using polyurethane centres or at least outers. I need to find out exactly which is available for our cars.

Hmm...actually just thinking about when I pulled the front aprat, I cant recall a provision where camber bolts could be used. Answered my own question I guess,

Yes, I probably phrased my question wrongly. +-1degree adjustment is plenty for the street. Are camber bolts/pins able to be used on the Z as this is what I used on my previous car. A tapered bolt between the strut and the hub.