drunkenmaster

you can PM him at www.performanceforums.com

What is a new line setting you back? My chassis rail extensions foul with my fuel and brake lines, so i may need new ones made too.

Can someone attach a screen capture of the CAD drawings you plan to build from? I think I'd lose my job if I got caught posting and OEM harness drawing, but I can comment on yours if you wish.

Continiuity and crossed circuit checking is also an issue, personally i cant see any of us affording or willing to setup automated tables with mating checking fixtures and writing code to test each circuit from A to B, nor will we be sitting on the floor with a multimeter probing however many circuits one by one.

Well, I agree that contracting to an overseas company is far fetched for low volumes, or contracting to any company for that matter local or not for these volumes will be excessively expensive to say the least. As I said earlier, it is extremely labor intensive and if your paying more that 3rd world hourly rates for labor, forget it. The only reason i am interested is that I already know how to build a harness and I have access to tools and materials used in cars people will be buying new 3 years from now. So, lets tally up the info and see if there is enough to make this viable or not.

Actually with all this talk its making me think about doing this myself. My location and the side of the car our steering wheels are on maybe a problem though. Is it possible to pool or at least list what information has been compiled and what still needs to be done. I have access to an australian '77 harness and perhaps a '74, but I am sure i can borrow more. My guess is the most valuable information aside from routing is the mating connector part numbers and manufacturers/suppliers.

You can use the one lay up board to built many different harnesses with the same vehicle fitment. i.e. you could use the same board for the improved harness and the replacement harnesses. Here are some of my suggections to get started, i am not sure at what stage if any this is at, but feel free to use these or not: Creat a jig board based on the OEM harness using 2 pronged forks along the harness to keep it in shape and 3 (triangle) or 4 (square) pronged forks at the end of the branches where it splits into individual connector branches. Number all the connectors numerically. Name each circuit, suggestion would be 001A - 001B and so on, identifying each end as it may require different terminal crimp. You should create, if not already have done, a wire list which lists every circuit in the harness along with size, wire type, colour, connector number on each end and terminal part number for crimping. Add circuit length as well, I would simply use Excel for this as you can manipulate and search the data very easily. Include both the OEM and Improved circuits on the same wirelist, just have a column A and B with a "1" or "0" indicating which it belongs to. Most likely most will be common between them.

A wiring harness is highly labor intensive, perhaps you tell me then, where would be the best manufacturing country to build one? The engineering and automotive big names that are now in partnership with china is impressive, and the rate of growth there is amazing. These are multi million dollar companies and i dont think they have all got it wrong. All I am getting at is it is all a trade off between cost and quality, and from my experience and travel, China would be my choice if I was to set up shop somewhere and i think the statement that I replied to was a broad generalisation which is no longer, if ever, true. As for the Z wiring harness scheme, if someone could post exactly what the build and drawing process plan is, I would be happy to offer some advice if it is needed.

Personally I would giving more credit to the Russians and their force to end the war, you know the bad guys in every U.S movie from the 1980's But they were only looking out for their homelands best interests as was everyone else and as clearly everyone continues to do.

Nearly everything is made in China these days and if it isnt, companies are in negotiations to move there. There have been VW/Audi and Buick plants there for several years as well as a lot of other top engineering companies i know of. China has decades of manufacturing experience and there is no reason to say that nothing is made well in china when it is not the case if you look inside any of your electronic devices. The problem is the knockoffs and cheap copies are of poor design and quality but if you buy a fake rolex on a street corner for a fraction of the cost, you cant complain when it breaks. The funny thing about China is even these cheap low budget operations equivalent to the local guy selling fake watched down a local alley still export globally and have a market overseas. To stay remotely on topic, one of the most popular and reliable cars in the USA has its wiring harness manufactured in Mexico and I know first hand that the quality issues there have been huge over the last couple of years. This would not be the case in China. I work in this field but have kept quiet because even though it is my job, I dont think there is a whole lot I can offer to help given my location and the fact that it already seems to be fairly sorted, unless anyone has ideas.

I know, but I am just syaing that the engine was hardly new. I wouldnt worry about it if it fits in your suitcase.

I beleive you do. And my RB motor from NZ I got taxed like a b*tch so, I am pretty sure.

Gift wrapping wont work with customs, but it is fits in your suit case chances are they just wont care anyways if you dont declare it. I am in Japan at the moment and havent really seen any shops of interest but i havent really had much of a chance to look. Will be going to Tokyo motor show this weekend though.

Its not a huge deal, I did mine in about an hour or so. From memory it was just a matter of removing the centre console, steering column "clam shell" and heater control plate. the dash frame bolts are easily visible behind the centre console and unplug any relevant wiring you come across. I cant remember if the Haynes manual covers this but i beleive it does and i think I followed it. Once you get started it falles into place, its much harder to think about how to do it without being there. I beleive there is also a HOW TO posted in the techincal section of this forum.

Hmmm...photos? What is it made from?

Oops, I read Honda S800

looks real high quality fitment too...

Thats not funny, I havent had so little to drink since I have been in Japan since, well i cannot remember, probably early childhood.

Is the amount offered a secret ? Luke, is your grill or bumper not aligned? the slope of the ground isnt helping my eyes either :laugh:

If its going to be a modified car you could integrate some sort of difuser panel into this area. 1) It could be functional 2) It would conceal imperfections as opposed to a large smooth area 3) It could be made as a bolt on, I do not mind ABS plastic or fibreglass as add ons, but not moulded into the body itself. google showed me these: http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/diffuser/ http://www.topsecretjpn.com/products/jdiffuserpro.htm

I am doing my best to find a way there as we speak EDIT: Cant seem to find any dates?

Or you could see what i did to one of my other Zs http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3897&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

I had all the bits including motor for my L28ET setup, problem was all the parts were approaching 30 years old and needed a good reco. So I went with the RB30DET which I worked out to cost around the same, as if you are rebulding a motor, you may as well rebuild a newer one as it will cost around the same. Either way it costs a small fortunes to do it properly, but at least this was I will have more power, better economy and a world of off the shelf new parts.

And I have been living in Japan for just over a month now, not many turbos but quite a few old skylines and Zs about.

and years....especially if you change base cars half way