drunkenmaster

Bloody hell, first Ash then you. Both making me do the sums on quitting my RB swap.

thermostat could be stuck in eternal warm up?

Very few are done properly, and if they are, they are rarely sold. Think of the reasons you sold the purple car, the things you knew as the owner and no one else did (there is always something). Then imagine they all have things lurking beneath like that. Think about those out there bogging up some rust and respraing over the original paint and claiming a ground up resto and commanding that sort of price, and people are buying them. Thats why i did it myself.

Probably the same. Look to an RB20DET, they can be had for $1200 or so nowadays, but they are getting old too. Seriously though, if you budget doesnt allow for expenses to add up toward the $10k mark on the enigne alone, I wouldnt bother with forced induction. Do the math first. Everyone thinks they could do it cheaper including myself, but its never the case, and those who do, even up paying more in the long run fixing short cuts. L28E is probably the most cost effective option.

click before it goes: http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=1162

Mine hasnt had seats in it for a year, so no

Damn, could have used some english conversation last Monday night. I was stuck at Tokyo Station Hotel, don't think I will be back there in the next two months other than to switch trains on the way back to the airport. Thanks for the offer though,

allzparts has them, not expensive.

As some of you may, but most probably don't know, I have been in Japan for the last week and will be staying here until December on business. Some of the locals were taking me around Hamamatsu city on the weekend when we got a bit off course and a Z caught my eye. I asked them to turn around and go by slowly and sure enough, there was a whole car yard full of Z's and early 70's skylines. All looked in great shape and seemed quite well priced (~480000Yen). Unfortunetly it was dark and raining so i didnt get out and worse yet, i didn't have my camera on me. If only such dealerships existed back home.

you can buy them sub $500 from a wrecker or buy a poor condition 280zx or 260Z 2+2 with one already fitted. The rebuild nicely with high compression for NA or turbo charged they can reach mid to high 100's (kW) with a mild setup using the factory turbo manifold or custom.

I guess it depends on rust locations, interior condition and why the car is not running? but the demand is growing so you could probably do well. 2+2's go for around $1k to 2k every week in the trading post so it would have to be a good exmple to justify more than what the average sells for.

OK, i get them in tonight, it was just as you guys said, so thanks again for the great info. It was like cracking a safe: one twist 2 degrees clock wise, 2 taps to the left, one twist 1 degree anticlockwise 4 taps to the right, then push.

There are planty of local urethane/nolathane suppliers locally, but none have such a pre-packaged kit. I chose to use rubber for my car anyhow, in the rear so far at least.

And the 200ZR on the site for $13k....fairly rare around these parts?

The only point of contact you can see in the photos where the lines are leaning up hard against the frame rail extension. I suppose worst case I could either cut the lines in that area and flare the ends, then use flexible fuel line hose to connect, or get whole new lines made.

Are there legality issues of running spacers in the US? As far as i know they are not road legal locally, I beleive due to extra stress placed on the wheel studs.

I used rubber. I realised I havent tightened the end nuts yet as the locking bolt is not sitting satisfactorily, so that probably has a lot to do with it.

They are along side the rail, but in the picture you can see that where the new rail extension bends up toward the rear of the car, it is blocking where the lines should go and in the picture the bracket cannot be fastened due to the interferrence. I may just make some sort of spacer, but it was a hastle all the same, it caused tension right along the car making it awkward to fasten alot of other brackets. I used the compressor on all ends, but it feels a lot more restricted on the longer passenger side brake line, maybe it is clogged.

Thanks guys, I will have a closer/calmer look tonight or tomorrow. Also now the control arm swings very freely where as all the Z cars I have removed the struts from, the control arms had a very limited axis of movement. Is this the way it should be?

OK, there are multiple threads about getting this bad boy out, but what about putting it all back together? I thought it was going to be very straight forward, I greased the pins plenty in a hope they wont seize again any time soon and pursuaded them back into place taking care that the notch lined up with the lock bolt hole. This went fairly easily however I am having trouble fitting the lock bolt. It will go in but not completely, enough for me to start fitting the nut on the other side, but not enough to be tightened to its full extent, with around 1cm (less than 0.5") still sticking up the top. The noth is in position as i can see it through the hole, and have tried turning it a bit using nuts and a spanner on the spindle pin but it just doesnt want to go in. Anyone got any tips on this one or something I may have missed/done wrong? I was tempted towards the end just to give it a big whack but the strut assembly blocks a clear swing at the top of the bolt. Ideas would be great. Thanks, James

I did in fact get a compressor and have been having a bit of fun with it, I bought a cheap accessories kit which included a blow gun, which i filled with turps and shot it through all the lines, followed by compressed air to dry it out. Fuel lines worked a treat, one concern was the brake lines as the turps pretty much entirely shot out the shorter drivers side arm after the divider, almost nothing coming out of the longer passenger side arm. Is this normal or do i have a problem? The second problem I encountered was fitting the lines back to the car. It seems my great frame rail extensions were not completely well thought out as the obstruct the steel lines now as pictured. I fitted the lines along the length of the car anyhow, but they hag a bit low near the obstruction and I couldnt fit the 2 brackets in that area. Opinions?

Ok, been exploring all the ways of cleaning the insides of the lines, and am now wondering if anyone has just had a brake shop bend up new lines instead? If in Australia, cost?

When I pulled the OEM carpets out of my 260Z i wasnt very impressed with the multi peice "design" which sounds like what the Tru-Fit kit is copying? I would much prefer a moulded one peice.

I dont know who would need a mount that serious. OEM should do fine

Please price the OEM mounts at allzparts.com.au and your Nissan Dealer and post your findings. I have just ordered new rear control arm inner bushes from allzparts at $32EA compared to Nissan which was ~$10 more EA