drunkenmaster

call zworx in Melbourne look em up in the yellowpages.com.au they have shelves full of Z parts, unfortunatley more z31 and z32 than s30 in my case

Australian website with very handy datsun based classifieds www.ozdat.com probably very little use to those in the US

"The Z Shop" sounds like a prime suspest? www.zspares.com.au also Zworx, can find them in the yellowpages.com.au

Thanks, sounds like rubber is a winner.

Thats similar to what I was being told earlier. Thanks for the confirmation.

Thanks for that, it was actually the facts that the original bushes had worn through the undercoat that got me thinking in the first place but what you say makes sense. No doubt I will come up with a new riddle to ponder when I spend all monday wedged under the car again.

Be mindful of poorly machined/lightened flywheels exploding at fast revolutions. Alan Stean at z car workshop offer a lightened flywheel but im yet to receive details on it, ideally a manufactured one rather than a michined one would be the way to go. He also offers clutches. Depending on what info i receive I may be getting quite a bit sent down to melbourne.

Ok, I was looking at the underside of the zed today ( as I do most days :stupid: ) and was looking at the upper rear control arm bush mounts, the ones that hold the bush/control arm captive. It is a sandwich between the diff mount and the underbody if you get what im talking about. Anyhow, the circular cutout in both the underbody and diff mount is nice and smooth and this got me wondering if this needs to be. Do the bushes need a smooth mounting, do they need to be able to freely rotate? I amp repainting the underside of the car soon with brush on POR-15 and sound deadener and this will not provide the smoothest surface, even if i dont use the sound deadener on this point, the por will still be slightly rough. Sorry if this is a stupid question, but you do ponder a lot of stupid issues when your suffering cabin fever from being flat on your back sandwiched between a car and the ground for several hours cleaning of 30 year old underbody paint/deadener.

rear control arms are the real 8 bushes in question i suppose?

He runs a 240Z and thus no rear sway bar. He was referring to the 8 control arm bushes and the 2 diff mount bushes.

Does anyone else have trouble accessing them this week? www.ozdat.com Thanks

I went to a reputable suspension place and spoke to a guy who uses a 240Z in targa tasmania and he was of the opinion rubber all round for the rear with some urethane up front. Decisions decisions...

So we are getting negative feedback for urethane bushes? Anyone for them?

With the L28 I am building I am porting the head, fitting a mild cam, looking at pistons/gaskets for ideal compression, upgrading injectors, fuel pump and fitting a larger 65mm throttle body. Als progammable engine management, most likely haltec or motec.

I have heard from one source recently that the firmness of these can causes structural failure of other related systems and welds. Any opinion on this?

Just keep coming with the bad news dont ya

Will this matter in any way? What about the hatch glass and trimming? the same between 2 seater and 2+2?

They dont have to be "automotive" relays, they just have to suit your current/volatge requirements. Im not sure about names of stores in the states, but there should be a wealth of electronic component stores. You should have an equivalent to something like this: http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4068&CATID=&keywords=relay&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=xxxxxxxxxx&Keyword2=xxxxxxxxxx&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID= and from my guess the maximum current a headlight will draw will be under 15A@12V, as arent they usually under 160W??

Those numbers for the turbo L28E seem low? I have seen the dyno sheet for a lucky bastard with a lightly worked L28E NA making 124rwkw...I hope mine will do the same but the range of power figures people seem to pull varies so much :stupid:

I also would like ot know if there are any problems with this setup? I was actually having a play with the L series engine calculator last week and found the L24 rods would give me quite nice compression in my L28.

Thanks guys, spot on with the estimations vs. actual asking price

Im looking at buying some trims/fittings/interior parts for my shell, what do you think is fair for these items together or seperate: all the door parts (trims, handles, glass etc) LH and RH rear window with surround lh and rh chrome stip above door on roof lh and rh plastic window surround center console rear hatch

Yeh, volts dont run anywhere, they only thing that could be said to run is current. Voltage is the potential for current to run between two points.

I think its pretty well explained above. The resistance (Ohm's) will govern how much current will flow at a set voltage, since current is determined by both voltage and resistance. V= IxR or I=V/R or R=I/V are all the same expression (Ohms Law) re arranged to find the variable your after. At a set voltage (like a 12V car battery) the current will be determined only by the resitance (as the voltage is fixed). A small resistance would result in a larger current than a large resistance. It is often compared to water in a pipe, and resistances are like bottlenecks/restrictions, limiting flow. One more thing worth noting, maybe not in this application, but the more current flowing through a resistance, the more heat it will produce. This is one reason why you fuse long cables as all wires/cables have some form of inherent low resistance, so if the short circuit to ground, there will be a huge current surge (because of the cables low resistance=high current) creating a lot of heat and possibly fire. Probably hasnt answered your question, but a breif back ground in electronics... In tomorrows lesson we will discuss power: P=IxV or P=I^2 x R :cross-eye

With third party I beleive it is market value or pre agreed value (in which case premiums go up). This is pretty silly seeing as average zeds go for twice "market" value every day.