phil359

If you can part with some $$ I'd look into the wiring harness that Dave has put together. It's a harness that uses relay's to off load the huge current draw that is passing through the main head light switch, and through the fuses in your fuse block. If it hasn't happened yet, you can expect the surrounding plastic thats molded around the headlight fuse clips in your fuse block to melt sometime in the future because of the current draw from the headlamps. I just installed the harness, a few weeks ago, works like a charm, and you don't have to cut any part of your exsisting harness to install it.. Check out this thread it has all the info http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=109782#post109782 Now granted this probably won't help you for your current situation, but once that's been fixed, it's a cheap fix, and insurance so that it won't happen again. -Phil

Hey ROOPZ, or anyone else I've got a urethane air dam that came with my Z when I bought it from the P.O. I never bothered to put it on since the car already had a fiberglass one on it, which I like the looks of a lot better. The urethane one has been sitting in the gardening tool shed for about 3 years now, never been used, and it's only been gathering dust.. So if anyone is looking for one I'd be willing to part with this one for cheap. It's similar to this one on MSA site http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=50-1411&Category_Code=7AD1 Attention: I do not know from where this airdam was purchased, all I know is that it is similar looking to the one in the link above. Like I said it's never been installed on the car, and it's not been painted, it's still the orginal black. It has a slight twist to it from being hanging over stuff in the tool shed, but from what I saw there weren't any cracks or anything.. I'm willing to let it go for at least 50% less than what MSA want's for a new one, and probably less than that since it's not doing me any good except taking up space. I'll try and post pic's tonight, and if anyone is interested try PM'ing me. -Phil Airdam Pic's

I gotta agree with the other guy's.. if you after the 350z look get a 350z. The guy did a nice job, and as was said if you got enough time, and money anything is possible. Don't get me wrong I wouldn't mind a new 350z, but I'll be just as happy with my '71' S30 when it all painted, and put back together. Will it have the original radio.. No, will it have the original Seats... No, Orginal tires, and wheels.. No, BUT when you see it coming down the road there'll be no mistaking it for anything other than a Series I Z. A nice Series I car is fast becoming harder, and harder to come by these day's, And as it was posted somewhere else on the board, when you chop-em up, and part them out.... that's it folks, No more orginals to be had. I'm not afraid of change, but like someone else said it awfully 350ish......But that's just my opinion

Reality Does SUCK I finally got enough of the house projects done to the point I don't feel real bad about sinking some $$$$ in to my Z. Same as yours, mine's a 71 with various upgrades here and there... It's been sitting in the garage for the last 3 years while I was looking for a painter to paint the car without it costing me a Liver, an Arm, and both legs... I get to keep a leg :nervous: Paint, body work, and new seals around the doors, and hatch will cost me in the neighborhood of 7K, not including the cost of parts. And speaking about the cost of parts.. my advice to you would be any stock interior item that you currently have in your possession keep it around.. I am finding that some of the interior items aren't made, and can't be found anymore... new or used.... One of the few pieces I needed to finish the interior just costed me big time on Ebay... I'm soooooo freaking embarrassed , but gotta admit oh soooooo happy I got it :laugh: Have fun with it, and save your pennies, you'll need em

Weasel240.... Got a question for ya... Is there a way to get the self excited circuit going with out needing to rev the motor above 1000 RMP's. I had heard that all that's need is to connect a dummy light, and diode some where in the alt circuit. I've check various car shop manuals but haven't been able to figure it out yet. Thanks...

I understood what MikeW was saying in his post... But does that mean the OEM door seals that you get from Nissan now a days are the thicker 280 seals.. as opposed to the thinner early 240 seals??

I have a set of the aftermarket seals that I got from MSA, I'm debating on weather to use them or not. I won't be installing them, I'm having the body shop that is doing the paint job put new seals all the way around. I just have to get them for the shop. From the posts that I've read about the door seals problems, re-alignment of the door is a must when new seals are installed. So do I take my chance with the after market seals, or get the OEM ones??? If MikeW is correct, than the seals I have now are probably 280z seals??, and the ones I get from Courtesy will be the same as what I have?? I hate having to do something twice, when I could have done it right once the first time.

I finally decided on what I'm going to do with my 240.. It's been sitting in the garage while I've been debating on weather to keep the car, and get it painted or put it back together and sell it as is.... I'm going to keep the car, and get the paint job.. Now a question about the heater, and radiator core, and related hoses. The car has been sitting for about 3 to 4 years, while I've been replacing this and that on the car. I have tried to be good about starting it up once every 3 to 6 months and let it idle up to temp, just to charge the battery, and circulate the coolant, and oil. I know coolant, and oil brake down due to age, and should be replaced every so often, and I'll do that before I take the car out on the road, but what about the heater core, and radiator?? should I worry about corrosion, and blockage?? Should I pull them and have them tanked, and cleaned out?? The radiator will be easy, but after looking at the heater core.. That one has me nervous.. last thing I need is to get half way through pulling the core out, and find I can't get it out, and can't get it put back together. Also what about the hoses, the engine compartment will be no problem, but again it's the heater core hoses that run through the firewall that worry me. It awfully tight under the dash. Thanks

I'll try and take pictures of it as it sits now and post somehwere on the net, for all to see maybe it'll give you a better idea on what I should do... Ain't it nice to spend someone elses money :devious:

I really haven't lost interest in the car, It's just that I've had it in its current condition for the last 3 years or so. That and teh fact that my other two daily drivers are a beater Honda Prelude, and a Dodge P/U.. I ready for a fun car to zip around in this summer. No doubt that if I were to get it re-painted, it would be a keeper at that point. No way I'm gonna recoupe the 6K if I sell it. I like the car it's was a blast to drive, before I tore it apart, and the comments I got when ever I stop to fill up for gas was nice also I just not sure if a 6k paint job is a wise choice I have thought about trying to paint it myself, BUT as picky as I am, I think I'd be better off letting a person who paints cars for a living do it. The owner of restoration place I'm thinking of having the work done at came by and had a look at the car. He said the orginal paint was still in excellent condition, and would work well with no need to strip it down. If I repaint I plan to repaint the same stock orginal body color that it is now. The paint in engine bay is in good to excellent condition, the battery tray is still in great shape, no rust. I've already removed and treated any minor door jamb, and rear hatch rust with a wire wheel, and POR 15. All the lights, marker lights, emblems, bumpers, what have you have been removed, it's just sitting there waiting for a fresh coat of paint. The other thing is if I do repaint, and keep the car.. it becomes my spring / summer driver.. fair weather only... shi&$y weather is what my truck, and prelude are for

Hey 2ManyZs I've been searching around on the net about the E31/F54 head, block combo... and One concern that was brought up was the high compression ratio that this combination would have... At this point I think I can safely assume that the head has never been milled, at least not as long as I've know the car. If that is the case from what I've read thus far an E31/F54 combination will give a compression ratio of around 11:1:paranoid: I don't think that going to be very drivable on today's low octane gas, unless I use octane booster... any suggestion or recommenadtions Thanks for you help and input :classic:

E31 head, and E31 block.... I'll probably take 2ManyZs advice and do the leak down, and Compression test and compare them up to factory specs, and build off of a F54 block. Also 2ManyZ is the E88 head more desirable than the E31??? or is it the other way around?? I didn't know the orginal owner of the Z, but I did know the second, and third owners... they were brothers, and the big brother handed it down to his little brother... my high school buddy.... He ended up getting married, and had a few too many house projects going, and ended up selling me the Z a few years back... and I've just been slowly replacing, and referbishing parts along the way.... gawd it like I'm replacing one thing or another on this car Thanks to everyone for your suggestions, and keep-em coming if you have any

Hey MikeW I'm not sure if the engine is putting out the expected output... I know it's not burning any great amount of oil, meaning I'm not putting in a qt. of oil every 500 miles :cross-eye I'm not getting any big puff of blue smoke when I start it up... so I think the engine is in pretty respectable shape for being 30+ yrs old. I think it's only got about 130k on it also. I guess I should probably do a compression check on it for base reference before I do anything... I guess I'd just like to get a little more git-up and go out of it

240zx... Thanks for the tip in the 3.0 stroker article the author did mention Rebello as a possible source for machine shop work, And I have heard of them and the great quality type work they do... But along with the high quality comes associated cost for such work... Unfortunetly I can't justify spending that type of money for my hobby But thanks

I got a 71 240 with the original engine in it, hooked up to a newer 5-spd tranny. Original SU round top carbs. I'd like to build a new motor for it, for the purposes of cruising on sunny week-end road trips. I'd like to keep it very simple, and dependable such as it is now... No complicated fuel-injection or turbo setup, or such. I've been thinking about a stroker motor, but after reading this article http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/engine.html on a 3.0 stoker it appears that going that route might get pretty pricey to do it correctly. Does anyone have any suggestions on what a good motor build for about 2-3k, with good low-end torque for crusing around would be?? Thanks