qz16

Steve J, Thanks for the correction. Still think it would be a good idea to see if there is 12 volts on that pair of wires, before going any further. Thanks again steve J I just thought of this, and yes, I know it is silly, but are you sure that the bulb that is not lighting is actually the high beam indicator or is it possible that it is something else? Is there any other bulbs that are on?

Duffman, If your headlights switch from low beam to high beam, then the switch is not likely to be the problem. Likewise, if the headlights switch then the relay is likely to be good as well. If you can switch the high beam indicator bulb from led to incandescent, then you can get to the socket. Can you put a multi-meter on the wire going to the socket and the other end of the multimeter to ground and see if there is 12v? Don’t forget to try it with the high beam switch in both positions. If there is 12 volts then it probably is a grounding issue. When the socket is installed in the speedometer it is grounded. If it is not firmly installed into the speedometer then you might not get a ground to the socket. If you do not have 12v in the lead to the socket then I think the problem gets a bit more insidious. Its been a while but I think that function goes through the combination switch. If necessary, I can dig out the schematic, but I would check the voltage to the socket first. regards, q

A friends car was exhibiting something similar. He would crank the engine and it would sound like it was spinning, but not start. Sometimes it would start and run well. Come back a while later and it would not start. We went down the same route suspecting the solenoid and/or starter. We took the valve cover off and it looked like the valves wee operating, oil was spraying etc. When it was in the failing state to check spark via the distributor, we turned the crank with a socket and ratchet. It seemed to turn way too easily like there was no compression. He did a compression check and two cylinders were zero (engine cold because it would not start it to warm it up). A couple of hours later he repeated the compression check and low and behold it registered much higher, but not normal. The car started and again it ran well. Turns out it was a couple of stuck valves - that is when he revealed that he had put some old gas in to dispose of or use up. Unlikely that you are having the same issue, but it may be worth eliminating. Hope it resolves soon.

As always, thanks zkars

SUCCESS - Autozone was able to special order the STP air filter - #SA3378, and it fits my airbox. I have not heard back from O'reilly's yet. Once again thank you DatsunZguy. Update 12/21/22: Unfortunately O'reillys was not able to locate a suitable filter. They were as always very nice. The manager took the time to take the measurements and search for similar filters. He did come up with the K&N filter that zKars mentions below but said that all of his sources claimed that it was out of stock.

DatsunZguy - Thanks for the quick response. I had previously checked oreilly, autozone, napa, and advanced auto - all of those sites indicated out of stock conditions. Having said that armed with the specific part number I did call both Oreilly and autozone and both said that they would try to special order it. So, thank you for the part number lead. It may take a few days, but I will update this thread if they are able to fill the order.

I have a late 1973 240z air filter box. I've been restoring the car for a while. I am trying to locate an air filter. I did not realize it but evidently there are two (2) different sizes. One that is approx. 2.375 inches high and another that is about .25 inches shorter. I am not having a great deal of luck locating the correct air filter. Does anyone have a current source for these air filters. I believe they were used on late '73 (240 Zs) and 1974 260 Zs. I have tried all of the usual suspects (zcardepot, thezstore, ...etc) Thanks in advance for your assistance.

I would like to help you if I can. Can you tell me which step is confusing to you. Thanks. ooops - I read my post from the beginning and realized that you might have been joking - You know humor is a funny thing. (That's a pun.) The person your telling the joke to needs to realize that it is a joke. If when you said - "What rear roller?" you meant that you no longer even had a rear roller, then I have passed yet another milestone in my life. I am now at the point that humor needs to be described to me. On the other hand, if you meant - What rear roller, as in what are you talking about, then forget about this oops para and zero me in so I can correct whatever mistake I have made. Have a great day

Sorry I was away from the site for a few days. Thanks to all for the responses. The images from U.K. JerZ were very helpful. I also found some other information indicating that there were two different thickness'. Those on the higher portion were 1/2" - 9/16" thick while the lower section got 1/4"-5/16" thick. The images above show these different thickness'. BTW - sorry for not making it clear - I have a '73 240z. When I pulled the tank I saw the indents. My tank has 3 indents for isolators on the lower section and two indents for isolators on the upper section. I found some neoprene and/or DOBTIM Neoprene that is the right thickness'. Once again, thanks for the help. regards, ron

Does anyone know if there was anything between the fuel tank and the bottom of the chassis? Was there any material isolating the tank metal from the chassis? Thanks in advance for your help.

So, I found something that fits. The screw is an M5 .8 I do not know the correct length. I happen to find a few 20mm and they appear to work well. Thanks anyway.

Does anyone know what fastener is used to hold the rear view mirror bracket on a 1973 240z? Size and pitch would be great if you know it. If not does anyone know if they are the same bolts as the sun visors. Thanks in advance for your help

I have an MSA 3-2 header with 2 inch tubes. Does anyone have a source for a T304 stainless steel 2-1 merge collector (2.0 inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet) that will mate with the MSA header. My understanding is that the MSA header mates with the original Datsun merge collector, but I can’t confirm this because I do not know if my current merge collector is original equipment. I realize I can have a muffler shop fabricate a collector but was hoping for a less expensive solution. I found some merge collectors online, vibrant for example but the center to center measurement of the inlet tubes is not the same as the MSA header. The center to center measurement of the MSA is 2.44 inches, while the center to center measurement of the Vibrant collector is 2.125. I am hoping that someone has bought a merge collector that mates to the original s30 exhaust. Thanks for your help.

dutchzcarguy - Thanks for the response.. I will make the packing, appreciate the suggestion. Cantechz and steveJ - thanks as well

okay so, I looked in the garage and the stuff that I was talking about is called butyl tape. I dont think seam sealer would be a good idea because I think it has adhesive. Does anyone know what the original packing was made from?