tzagi1

So how much per set, A bit confused.

Yep, call or text 9402069747

I'll take them if randella passes.

Soak it in brake fluid for a day or so, it makes rubber grow and softens it up as well.

The mystery might be solved, zed head hit the nail on the head, the vac advance pot is doa., I did remove the cam sprocket and it was on position 3 and retarted, I placed the cam on pos 1 and the timing mark came back to the center. the car idles better and seems pepier off the line. checked timing and its on 28 advance, mechanical advance works and it seems to add another 20 degrees or so. Any idea wher to find the vac advance pot? it seems that they are totaly NLA.

Tried, the attachment function wants a url unless I'm doing something wrong as usual.

Stock 77 short block with a E31 head, shaved too, (cam towers spacers included) should have higher then stock compression. The links work for me..any idea of a hosting service? all the old sites I used in the past are gone.

https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipN9IidI9bnZtliZmPggTCwn227HvHlYxZYYblnJ https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipMCB8E7dYOsA1C4j6eH-Zzh4OhpBGHJ9zeDxel3 https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipNy58sgEEN3ERs4pItuXXuQZVYbQVzH_cZeI2Cuhttps://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipOYCUelWJeSF9uOY-UeGBIyHIZ6hCBLfjVE2dHuhttps://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipOAgvGx4eV2PbxE3OP_YzII_egY65Eq0xIQeJne The lack of detonation is exactly what bothers me, I cannot advance it enugh to cause it to detonate espacially with the garbage fuel we have today., the pics were taken at tdc and the tdc was verified, the piston starts moving down slightly past tdc. the timing marks are right on.. the cam timing marks are confusingbut maybe I'm not reading them correctly., by eye balling the cam it looks to be advanced to me but it could be an optical ilusion as well. I do have another complete long block that is all stock, tommorow I'll pull the valve cover and set it on tdc to compare the cam timing. I was thinking about retarding the cam to make the car more street friendly, right now its a total huligans car.

There is no detonation, with this cam it has a turbo like personality, all the power is above 4k, from there it pulls like a fright train. I'll double check everything, I guess its possable for the outer ring of the ballancer to turn on the inner.

I tried to make a long story short.. The car is a 71, dual webers, header, zx dizzy. "runs" means overall, at stock timing (12-15 ish) poor idle quality, poor drivability, poor acceletation. It runs "normal" at 25 or so. as far as I know the short block is all original, the timing marker and the balancer were not changed or mismatched "cam timing"- At tdc the cam sprocket marks allign with the tower marks. the chain is very tight.

To make a long story short, The car runs like crap when the timing is set where it needs to be yet when advanced into the 20's it runs 10 times better, I checked the cam timing and it seems to be on the money. the cam is not factory but somewhere around a 262 grind from the 80's. for reference, the block is a 77 l28 with a e31 is a streched chain a suspect here?

There are a few of us in town that can do it however it will be much cheaper to bring the car to town, give me a call at 940206974seven......Joe

Yes, it sounded like the timing is heavily restarted, do this: dial in the timing with a vac gauge ( it can be your best friend), keep advancing until you get a maximum vac reading, if you over advance it will start drooping. if the engine likes more timing then 15-20 static, chances are that the timing chain is stretched ( unless you installed a new one) or the cam timing is off somehow. Keep in mind that everything is relative and factors like fuel quality, altitude, jetting and compression will effect the ideal timing.

Did you install a new timing chain?

Jeff, the vac advance problem is easily solved, You can take manifold vacuum and run it via a solenoid controlled by a micro switch on the throttle, what you are looking for is to cut off the vacuum at idle. it will simulate ported vacuum just fine. been there, done that, worn off the t shirt.

The only thing/s that don't look good on/for me....are snowflakes.

Dear Jeff, who is teaching you all these nonsense ignition theories? Tell you what, Got whatsupp on your phone? +19402069747, afternoons, pacific time. I'll sort it for you. No need to thank me, its painful (to me) to see yah fighting with it, for god's sake, take something simple as pouring wizz out of a boot and over complicate it by a factor of 100.

1:10 Rookie mistake #1 Never ever drain the oil before removing the fill plug.

There is no reason to reinvent the wheel, the car came from the factory with mounts for a 3 point seat belt, mounting a set of universal belt is quite easy, you will need a few longer bolts and spacers to mount the reels, the bolt size BTW is 7/16 fine thread. if there is interest I can take pics of mine.

Well....look at the bright side, you now have a spare LH (not passenger)door handle now. BTW, that break is classic, if anyone attempts to open the door while its locked it will break every time. Happened to me more then a few times..

Just swap the handles left to right!, you dont need to get a new one.

Good idea....the last thing Jeff wants to do is to pull it out one the dash is installed.

A word regarding electric vs mechanical fuel pumps. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the mech pump, throw what you want at it, dcoe 45? no problemo So why electric? there is one and only one reason, in my particular case, I incorporated it into the security system, in other words unless you know the secret hand shake ......the perp will be stalled in 50 feet or so with no fuel. Regadess, and as been my experience a few weeks ago I have been driving the 240 and it died about 1/4 mile from my house as if its out of gas, which it wasn't, reluctantly I have suspected the supply hose/s at the fuel tank, both were 100% original and super brittle, both got replaced.....yet the problem remained. finally, I replaced the hose from the fuel rail (100% original)(pass side fuel rail to the fuel pump) and that did the trick. Moral of the story: Don't wait 45 year+ to replace any flexible rubber fuel lines, the factory stuff may last that long (not) ..but aftermarket?

Dear jeff, don't worry about the return right now, if you can make it it work, great, if not no sweat. Fuel pressure should be kept bellow 5psi, 3.5 for the street is more then required. go ahead and try it without the reg, Manufacturers do not always "tell the truth" a 6 psi pump can easily translate to 4 psi in real life. You will have more then a fun time tuning it for the street, good luck with that. Hoping for you it will not be an (overly) costly project.