tzagi1

4:27 that is the pcv outlet.a hose connects to the pcv valve in the intake.

To each his own, refer back to post #401. You have those who been doing it for 30 years + and those who are too busy talking how it doesn't work.

Its not supposed to be funny. The brakes are not the same, you get more pad material=more clamping area=better braking As the front brakes do %75 of the work, the bias front to rear is negligible. you would know that if you ever tried it.

A son comes to his father and asks for help with homework, Dad, I was given an assignment to explain the difference between theory and reality. The dad thinks about it for a minute and tells his son to ask his mother if she will be willing to sleep with the neighbour for $100, the son returns and reports the answer is a loud "NO", the father sends the kid to ask the same question to his older sister, the son return with the same results....the father now sends the kid to ask the same question yet up the price to $1000000...the kid returns with an "I guess" answer. The father responds: you see son, in theory we are millionaires yet in reality we have two whores in the house. Badabing. If you don't get it....no worries, you wont get it.

Are you speaking from personal experience zed head? Somehow I doubt it. I have installed many dozens of toy calipers over the years as well as on my personal cars. all work perfectly well without any other mods. Here is how one knows when the brakes are out of bias, one axle will lock before another, not the case here. If you have any evidence to the contrary please present it....otherwise you do know what they say about opinions right?

Unless you are planning to switch to rear discs there is no reason to mess with the brake bias, it works just fine with the highlux calipers as is.

Thank you Jeff for reminding us privileged yanks how lucky we are to live in a country where 85 Toyota calipers are available at any auto parts store For about $30 each.... PS: no gaskets on the tail lights?

5:10, the vent badge in your left hand is off a 2+2, the rest got the vent in the right hand. 12:40 The water outlet on the thermostat housing was used as a return to heat up the original carbs, with the webers you don't have that provision, remover the nipple and replace it with a pipe plug (3/8 NPT if I remember correctly)

Adding a relay to the starter is not a bad idea, it does increase the life span of the ignition switch.

You didnt have an incorrect clutch fork, The problem is that you have to use the matching pushrod that has a half ball at the end...those are impossible to find unless you have one. same can be said for the clutch/ bearing collar combo, if they all matched there wouldn't have been an issue.

0:34, In your right hand you have an early 70's points dizzy, if you have your hart set on using it there are electronic conversion kits, occasionally you can find them on ebay for $30+- In your left hand you got a 79 up electronic version, these are really good!, 2 wire hookup, one to the (+) of the coil, the other to the (-). The biggest challenge is to phase it correctly, if you are to install the late dizzy into a early mounting tower you will find that there is no way to set up your timing properly, there are 2 solutions: 1. find a 79 and up mount (can be from a 4 cyl as well). 2. use a dremel to elongate the slots on the mounting plate. As always, before installation apply vacuum to the advance pot, make sure it doesn't leak and check the shaft bushings for wear, grab the shaft and try to move it sideways, if there is any play you will get erratic timing.

Window tint can be removed with ammonia and heat, soak newspaper in ammonia and stick on the window in 2-3 layers, cover with a plastic bag or clink wrap, let is sit in the sun, pick the edge with a razor and see if it peels off, multiple application may be needed.

Injectors do not go bad generally. They can sit for a long time. if you feel like performing some maintenance you can A: clean them using a sonic tub (can be found around $10 online) or B: back flush them, the do have a tiny filter inside (replaceable) As to the back flushing you will need the body of a 10cc syringe and carb cleaner, see here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFJlTfHyrUk I do have to credit the krout engineers on that one, they did come up with a perfect design 50 years ago that serves us faithfully to this day.

Another method is electrolysis, do a u-tube search on rust removal electrolysis, not hard to make.

If you are already at it...might as well give the whole thing a cosmetic make over. rust can easily be removed with naval jelly or vinegar , get a couple of gallons at the market and soak parts in it for a couple of days, its not as fast as other rust removing products...but its cost effective. you can also use muriatic acid diluted with water but its nasty stuff. Treat the parts with phosphoric acid prior to painting. muriatic acid can be found at home depot in pool supply, phosphoric acid at the paint department.both are reasonably priced. PS: you might want to check your timing chain, I find that most are badly stretched.

1. it was parked way before corn juice was introduced. 2 Got dual webers, fully rebuilt, like I said it ran great for the last 2 years. 3. e free is available only over an hour from me. not that practical, I do find that if its driven weekly and refreshed with fuel its not an issue, let it sit for 2 month ....and it will not start. Its something between the pump and the tank, either way the tank will need to be dropped....

Took the day off and decided to take the old girl for a spin, drove it about 3 miles and then it died as if its out of gas...right next to a gas station, pushed her in and put in $20, It was strange ..I just put in 4 gallons last weekend and drove it maybe 5 miles. Any way, the fuel pump is working (electrical) but no fuel gets to it (got a glass filter pre pump) History: up to 2 years ago the car set indoors for 18 years in socal, when I drained the old gas (2 years ago) it was very clear and chunk/rust free, since then it was a strong runner with zero issues, I don't drive regularly it but do try to start and drive it at least twice a month. I'm suspecting that something is going on with the pickup tube in the tank but didn't perform any diagnostics yet, how common is it for a pickup tube to rust or get clogged?. keep in mind that I'm in an arid climate and rust is not an issue here. I like to get some opinions/ personal experiences before I tear into it.

Almost forgot.. On the hydraulics: do not expect a perfect fit on the brake master, clutch master and clutch slave., all the rods will have different length, you will need to use all the original rods and clevis. otherwise all will bolt in place just fine.

Couple of pointers 1. You can use the newer dash however... A. you will also need the later center consul as the early consul will not mate with the newer dash B. you will need to modify the climate controls. might also get the later hood cable assy, the early one will or might not fit the early mounting point 2 gauges. they are NOT the same, for example if you are to use the early gauges in the later dash you will need to swap the early clock work into a later case, it will not mount otherwise. also, all the connectors are different and the later tach runs off the negative side of the coil vs the positive on the early tach All in all it will be easier to use the early dash, get a dash cover (get the 1/2 cover) and find the missing bits. PS, if you or anyone else get a dash cover and live in a hot climate DO NOT leave it uncovered in the sun!, it will warp badly.

Jeff. Let me put into perspective for you. Imagine (as a fireman) one tells you the following: what do you need a fancy shmancy fire truck for with that high pressure pump? I can put away that fire using my garden hose!!!!!!!!! Is it possible? perhaps, however is it practical? not so much. same can be said for your towing experience, I can tell you for a fact that towing with a full size truck (3/4 ton and up) is a completely different experience then towing with a ordinary suv....even a 1/2 ton full size truck is highly inferior. PS, speaking as a former MB heavy line tech.....the ML platform is the worst thing I ever seen since Russian Ladas, horrible cars. I wouldn't tow a jet ski with it. 3500kg? man you are brave! the tongue wight is more then the carrying capacity. Its a matter of what you are used to I guess, you need to try it to understand.