tzagi1

Care to clarify? sorry, I don't understand your question.

You can delete it if you want to...just keep in mind there is zoro benefit. common sense says it will become more cold blooded. I'm in vegas and are tuned relativity lean due to elevation, once warmed up its perfect, yet its still relatively cold blooded. drivability greatly improves after 5 minutes of driving (or so).

Inspect for a cracked boot between the afm and the tb, black silicone works wonders.

More like dumb luck, I would never have thought to look for it...."antifreeze pertification", phrase coined.

That is it, problem is solved. took it for a drive and the temp refused to even reach half, let it idle for an extended period and the temp stays at half solid (its a sunny 70 degree day) time to drain, flush reinstall thermostat a/f and heater hoses. then continue to finishing the a/c. I been working on cars for over 30 years (about 10 of that professionally) never seen anything like it , couldn't even imagine that it could happen. To future generations: if your car overheats and acts as if the thermostat is not opening WITHOUT a thermostat check the water pump passages for blockage.

I believe I found the problem! The outlet passage on the w/p was completely plugged up with a yellow/green substance, I'm assuming dirt/rust mixed with anti freeze. Poked at it with a screw driver and a whole bunch of very brown water came out, finished cleaning with a stubby round brush. Time to put er back together.

Quote: Nahh, I built the car in the early 90's, it was driven daily till parked in 98 or so, no one touched it since.

No rags or corks were used to plug anything, I just had everything apart and inspected. I even cleaned the passage under the carbs.

At this point ....very few options left. 1. its possible that the block is cracked so I will need to perform the block test again, still does not explain the lack of circulation. 2. its possible that the water passages under the deck are clogged, I'm suspecting that because of the blockage behind the block drain plug. Here is what I'm thinking: 1 reassemble the water pump and run another block test. 2. remove both rad hoses off the rad, build an adapter that clamps to the lower hose hooked to a garden hose and see if it comes out the upper hose.

The thermostat has been removed long ago, I did replace it with an old thermostat body with the inners removed, basically just the flat plate with a hole in the middle to simulate an open thermostat.

Not a chance... Initially when I was working on getting er running I replaced the rad, hoses and thermostat, that is it. I pulled it from the warehouse where I was working on it (couldn't run it inside) and drove it home, it drove fine, on the way I noticed that the temp gage was not working( got replaced and is working fine), when I got home (13 miles) I noticed it was hot..very hot. and the w/p was making noises. everything else came later.

Like I said, the water in the radiator is stagnant (engine running) no flow.

Care to elaborate?

After, I just drained it today to remove the water pump, water is crystal clear with no sediments.

It was doing the same thing when it wasn't bypassed, I just by passed it to do the flush(didn't want acid in a brand new core) and did not reconnect it yet.

Already flushed it with a diluted mixture of muriatic acid and water, neutralised it with a mixture of baking soda and water, then back flush it again, nothing dramatic came out at any flush. One thing I forgot, I did remove the block drain plug, its almost solid behind it, the water just trickles out, When I took the head off I verified that all the water passages between the block and the head were clean and clear, again, nothing was clogged.

Like I said I just took the radiator to get if flow tested(its new but just incase), its 100%

It sat in socal in a garage under a cover, the system was sealed, zero critters. the heater core is bypassed.

I am battling an overheating issue on a 71 240 with 2.8 block, E31 head Back ground: the car was sitting for almost 19 years, got it gunning and driving couple of month a go. Replaced the radiator with a now 3 core aluminium job (came with a cap), also took it to a radiator shop and tested for flow, its perfect. replaced water pump (bearing was gone) new thermostat Mechanical fan, good clutch back flushed the system car was running hot and overheating so I picked up a block test, sure enugh it turned yellow. Pulled the head, got it surfaced (8 thou) resembled everything with NO thermostat. Drove it today (T shirt weather) just took it around the block, 3 miles or so, when I got gack the gage was over 3/4, popped the hood sure enugh the upper hose is very hot, lower hose is cold as if the thermostat is closed, let it cool for 15 minutes, removed cap and start the engine, no water flow at all as if the water pump is not working, Some digging on line and found that some had issues with the impeller separating on water pumps...great, off with the pump ...if you guested that the impeller was perfect you would be right! (I was hoping it came off) So now what? I'm at the end of the rope here ! Any advice is welcomed. The only things that I didn't try is to replace is the radiator cap but I don't see how can it cause the issue. there is nothing left to replace.....but the engine. When the car was parked it drove like a scalded ape and it still does, the only issue is the overheating which did not exist when it was parked.

I might sound crude... but hear me out. I have an Eye condition that I had forever, I can use a cornea transplant. Over 30 years ago I asked the optometrist How much it is, He simply answered: if you have to ask its not for you.

Anything can be "worked out" the only question if its "cost effective" (to you) Personally I would leave it alone, battle scars are like tattoos...with stories.

I know that pics always look better then in real life.....but it doesn't look THAT bad. Expecting to find a 40 year old vehicle(+) that was not involved in some kind of accident is a bit unrealistic imo. Keep in mind, 30 years ago these things were dirt cheap, most have been driven hard and put away wet.

Bring a magnet!!

I'm finishing a A/C install on my 71 and looking for that housing, it mounts to the center console by the drivers knee and holds the controls. Anyone has a spare? Just need the plastic, no switches needed.

Just about every teen ager wrecks their first car (except me...I blew the motor first!) I hope the kid will do nether.. Maybe it will be a good idea to restrict power for a while, I would cut out some carb gaskets with a smaller hole. quick easy and free.