tzagi1

More then anything... you should appropriate that yanks know what "super cheap" is. or Hilux for that matter...

Do not reuse the calipers!!!!!!!!!!! Go to supercheap and ask for pre 86 Hilux 4x4 calipers.Almost plug and play, you are getting 4 piston calipers with bigger pad area for pennies.

If extracting the broken bolt wont work (or the threads are gone beyond repair) here is a trick: Drill the bolt with a 7/16 bit, tap it in 1/4 npt, get a solid pipe plug from lows ect (the kind that is fastened with an allen key) Now insert the plug, if its not flush with the head use a side grinder to make it flush with the head. now all that is left is to drill and tap it in 8mm. Works great if you don't have a time sert kit.

Never attempt to remove rusted hardware without heating it first, a plumbers torch and mapp gas do a good job dirt cheap. Now that they are broken,,, remove the manifold (torch), inspect the damage, if there is a nub to grab on then use vise grips and torch, if there is nothing to grab on then you will have to drill them out and use a easy out, if that doesn't work then drill it entirely and tap it for 8x1.25mm

Not may, you have to! also you need to cut 2 slits in the front of the hole and bend the front up some what to clear the shifter housing. Had to do it to more then a few 70-71 using the 280 5 speeds

A 2x4 hasn't been a 2x4 since the 50's, I did own a house that was built in 48, it was made or real 2x4s I did some work in Africa and the middle east, its all the same in size, just in metric lingo. For example, if you need a 1 inch pipe you will request a 1 ZOLL (German for inch) for whatever reason...

Just a small correction Jeffry, there is no such thing as metric steel, all steel (same as lumber, piping wire gauge ect)is made in imperial sizes, your ""3mm" is 1/8 of an inch thick by one inch (eye balling it). yes I know that its marketed that way in metric markets...but still..just for common knowledge,.

Is the oil pan off?

Got no space to squeeze in a needle.

Back in the early 90's I also torch bent the rod, still had to make some slices and bend the sheet metal up to clear. Since I learned some new tricks. I would cut the rod right above the fulcrum and add a plate to move it back per diem, not that hard and no (body) cutting needed.

The question depend on your age, Allow me to tell you to tell the story: Back in the early 90's when I built my car (71) IT HAD to have a cam, Had to!, at the time I worked right down the street from Camonics (NH CA) the owner, Ed Ninos (rip) talked me down into a "mild" grind of 262 duration. it was great!... Now lets fast forward ...that cam is a pita, it turned(?) the car to be a hooligans car, taking off from street lights is painful without gunning it,. there is nothing under 3000 rpm, at 4000 it explodes with power and pulls to 7k in a second flat. What can I say...I'm too old for this crap.

I only have 3... a 71, a 77 and a 78, by far the 71 is the most rust free, the other 2 have some spots here and there that need to be addressed and both need full restoration (cosmetically mostly).

And for a good reason, originality ment NOTHING Lets take my car as an example (71 240, very original+-), Bought it in the early 1990 for peanuts in good running order. naturally it had to be hot rodded, Suspension techniques springs, lowered adjustable Tociko struts 280 block,5 speed,(1977 280) E31 head ported and polished, 262 degree cam, header and dual webers. It is in that exact configuration toady and is a very period correct for the early 90's The original engine and trans are sitting in storage in socal... Most of the interior is still original; such as door panels and interior are original, most have been refinished, the dash is a 72-74 (has the lighter in it) this is just how it was back then. Do I regret not keeping it all original? absolutely not, its a much better car then ever came from the factory. is it way too low and stiff for me today (50+) absolutly Am I planning to bring it back to stock height? not any time soon, its a go cart with way too much HP and its fun,althu...today I might prefer a GT and not a hooligans car it was built as. but you got to wizz with the **** you have.(IE I will never built another this way) /

Quote:"The 1 thing I think we can all agree on, is that you see very few correctly restored cars done to a high standard come up for sale. So it's hard to know where the top end of the market sits at the moment." Gav, please understand, 20 to 30 years ago these cars were dirt cheap, I don't think I ever spent more then $1000 on a good running 70-72 240, naturally most have been modified with 280 hardware that were cheaper still. That was then ...this is now, no one thought about originality or the (possibility of the) current price tags.

Jeff, the 1st thing you need to do with the pistons is check piston to cylinder clearance and verify that its in tolerance, requires no more then a feeler gauge set, insert the ring less piston up side down into the bore and see which feeler gauge fits (90% to the crank) in the void, compare reading to the FSM. if any are under you can get them knurled and the clearance will reduce. this is very important to eliminate piston slap. As the mirrors go, I would use a piece of a wood dowel (a broom handle perhaps?), slightly undercut to fill the hole, finish with short strand fiberglass filler, sand to perfection.

Wouldn't be bad idea to weld on some temporary cross members before chopping commenced.

Cliff, in your case you got it better yet, they have adapters that are plug and play to convert the new Li lo 20v to old(er) dewalt tools https://www.ebay.com/itm/DCA1820-20V-To-18V-Battery-Converter-Adapter-For-Dewalt-Cordless-Power-Tool-HS/112963406385?epid=3018615709&hash=item1a4d24ca31:g:n3AAAOSw6sRa4o00 The batteries are cheap too...you can get knock offs for around $20-30 each shipped. they do work, the case material may not be to OEM spec but they do use good cells, head over heals better then the older nimh crap.

I'm ready to bet that any of you have a plastic tote in the garage full of old cordless tools collecting dust...do I get an Amman? Lately I needed an angle drill...and the only one I found in my storage is an old craftsman...the batteries died many years ago and I could find no batteries for it so I did some digging and found that there is a product called "usb adapter" for all major modern tool batteries (Milwaukee m18 in my case) but they also available for makita, dewalt ect...for well under $15. Originally its intended as an adapter that you can charge your cell phone off your tool batteries ....however it also makes a perfect platform for re powering just about anything cordless. The process is stupid simple, take apart the old battery , discard the contents and the bottom housing, take apart the usb adapter, you will need to perform 2 functions 1, Solder 2 wires from the old battery connections to the usb adapter (I use a deans connector rated at 30 amp but that is optional. 2. attach the top of the usb adapter to the old battery top using some screws. reattach the bottom of the adapter to the top section. Viola...Yah got a working tool!, if you lost the attachment points between the original battery and the tool feel free to use a screw to fix it, the battery no longer needs to be removed from the tool. It worked so well...I ordered more (ebay, search for whatever brand you battery you do have, such as M18 USB) and brought back to life all kinds of old junk. A word on rated voltage, for example, you have an old 9.6 or 12V tool, will it work on 18V? in my experience absolutely! A dc motor is a dc motor, the more voltage you give it..the faster it will spin and the more power it will produce....look at it this way, what do you have to loose? worst case scenario you will burn out the motor (on a tool that is practically useless), remove the usb adapter and move it to another tool, zero loss. Happy trails!

Hot wire=high resistance=bad connection. If you are using these cheap crimpers on the connectors its usually the problem.

Jamal, Had the same issue, one day the brake lights stopped working, pulled out the wiring diagram and it turns out that the power is supplied from the same wire that feeds the hazard relay (pass side kick panel)..checked for power there, present, check for power at the brake switch...nada, instead of tearing the dash apart..I found another 12v source to feed the switch and all is well in z land.

You forgot the small chunk of the fire wall as well....

That is true...the San Fernando Valley was known as "valley of fire" by the indians prior to the name change by the Spanish. why? every summer the whole place used to go up in flames every summer and the smoke would linger for weeks and month at a time..

I'm not going to argue if diesel emissions are cancerogenic or not, and its not the test criteria, the test is opacity based, how much light is restricted by what comes out of the exhaust. Back in the early 90's I had a smog license, my favorite activity (one of) was betting an ignorant fool that my 1980 Mercedes 300SD (diesel) had cleaner emissions then their Gas powered car, so I would hook their car up, record the numbers then do mine....never lost a bet!, diesels due to the inherit design do not produce any HC or CO as gas cars (in numbers the smog machine could read), what is left behind is 1 Nox, 2 H2o, 3 "particulate matter," as is soot (that is what the opacity test measures), the soot is heavier then air and falls to the ground, it does not pollute the atmosphere. did you ever see the smog in the early 70's in the LA basin? (pics anyway) it was bad, you couldn't see the sky....and it had nothing to do with diesels as there weren't any around.

In Nevada we have our own stupidity of Diesel emission testing, while it may have been valid in the 80's...today it's just a gigantic waste of time and money, in the past mechanical diesel cars/trucks would smoke so they instituted an opacity test, A smog machine costing $100000 would take a sample of the exhaust and run it thru a light, if the exhaust restricts the light by %40 or more- you failed. Modern diesels do not produce smoke (unless you want them to on purpose)My 2011 cummins dodge just got tested (wasted $50) to get an opacity reading of %2.1....

I take it you are not on vintage plates... Phoenix—Arizona Vintage Car Collectors will get a free pass on emissions testing thanks to legislation signed into law Sunday by Governor Jan Brewer. Senate Bill 1324 sponsored by 30th District State Senator Frank Antenori (R-Vail) exempts vehicles manufactured in or before 1974 and specifically “collector vehicles” from the annual testing.