Vorticity

Hi all. I recently came down with ALS, but not before buying a set of MSA headers for my 73 240z. I can't manage the install myself anymore, and can't send them back. I'd like to pay someone in KC to do the work. Probably be able to drive it this summer, then have to sell it. Anyone know someone in KC? Thanks, Matt

I finally ordered a MSA 3/2 coated header and 2.5 inch aluminized premium exhaust. I've read up and watched some videos on installation and think I can handle this job, but I've never done it before. Any tips/tricks are appreciated. One question I have is does the stock heat shield fit back in place without any modifications? Thanks everyone.

something inside the valve itself. I didn't run it around with the sight glasses on, cause they are plastic and I thought they might melt. That would have been disastrous. In the end, I took care of a lot of things that had never been done and needed it. The radiator had a tiny leak. The fuel tank was fine, though. Very clean inside. I really didn't need to Pour15 it, but I had it out. While it was out, I got to replace the vapor lines and fuel lines, all of which were probably original. I've got a full history (right down to fuel mileage booklets) on this car and those things were never done. The paperwork saved by the two previous owners is amazing. You can see the fuel mileage decline, then you find a receipt for a tuneup and the mileage goes back up. Someday I'll take apart the float valve and see what's causing it to stick shut.

For the past several years, I've chased a random fuel starvation issue. My 73 with round tops would randomly sputter and die. It might happen when barely warmed up, or when ran for a long time. It might happen after being driven for a while and then parked for a bit and then restarted. It would happen under load or not under load. Heck, it died while coasting down a long hill. Ambient temperature didn't matter. Would happen on a cold day after barely warming up. Just totally random. Always eventually restarted after several cranks and then might run fine, might randomly do it again. I tried replacing the filter, then the mechanical fuel pump (no electric). I dropped the tank and had it boiled/cleaned and I resealed it with POR15. Painted the outside and made it look pretty. All new soft fuel lines and then replaced the vapor tank lines(cause it stank a bit). Blowing through the lines indicated no blockage. I then started chasing vapor lock, even replacing the radiator (it was old anyway) and then went to electric fans. I tuned it to within an inch of it's life, tinkering with the carbs and checking the fuel level in the float bowls via those little sight glass things you can buy from ztherapy. Ugh! I learned a lot about tuning a Z. Finally, one day I pulled the float bowl lids and blew through the fuel line nipple on the top of them, while playing with the float. Raising, then lowering it. Trying to see when it engaged and disengaged the shutoff valve. Weellllll! Turns out the valve would randomly stick closed on the rear carb. I had another set of carbs, so I just swapped out the rear carb float bowl lid and whooooo hooooo, problem solved! Meanwhile, I have a Z with perfectly adjusted valves, a perfect fuel system, great cooling and perfectly adjusted carbs. Just Ugh. Thought I'd pass this along in case someone else is chasing a similar issue. Check and recheck and recheck your float valve functionality. Make sure that thing opens when the float drops. That is all.

1.5" Primary Datsun Z Header. All Square Port. 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX | eBay pointed out by AK260 above

try it now. I was swapping out the pic.

Is it me, or should the pipes be fully welded to the flange? See attached pic from the add.

Actually, there 6/1 says it has equal length tubes. Motorsport! MOTORSPORT TBC Coated 6-1 Header, 70-76 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX ( Z31 Z32 ) 350Z 370Z Parts If you read some of my other posts over the years, the primary reason to switch to headers is that I have a 73, which has a unique downtube that I would have to have custom made if I want to keep the stock exhaust manifold. The stock manifold has all the ugly fittings for EGR, which PO left when he removed all the EGR stuff as part of the conversion to round tops. I could have the downpipe made, then pull it and the manifold, remove and plug the fittings, check it for warpage, get it blasted, and have it all coated. Then bolt it all back on and be good. The somewhat stock exhaust would match the pretty polished intakes, balance tube and refurbished carbs that are going on it. Or...I could just get a coated header. I'd store the old manifold in case I ever wanted to go back to stock. Seems easier to go with headers, and does stock exhaust manifold matter much when the intake and carbs have already been changed? The engine is otherwise all stock, so I doubt I will get much performance gain from the headers. My exhaust itself looks mostly factory, complete with crush bent, skinny pipes. The PO did replace the muffler with a vertical twin slashed tip Ansa, but it's starting to rust out. I bet I'll see some gain just from replacing the pipes and muffler. Car only has 106k documented miles on it, most of which were put on before 1990. I've put 12k on it since I bought it in 2007. I plan to keep it a while longer.

Thanks for the tip. About to start ordering. Think I'll just keep it simple and go with the MSA 6/1 coated header and one of their exhausts. I figure they've worked the kinks out and it should be an easy install. Hard part seems to be getting the old stuff off the car.

Ahh, I see it now. I've bought a few things from them lately, but nothing too complicated like a header apparently is 😉 I can say their service is quick. Never had a problem that I had to send back. I was interested in this header because of the long collector pipe that is coated. I was hoping it would help with the heat coming up through the floor board under my seat. I drive mine on long trips from time to time and it gets so hot. Anything over a two hour trip and my tail starts to sweat, and I've got cold AC. I stuff towels under the seat and between the seat and transmission tunnel, which helps a lot.

Their website no longer shows that picture. Can't believe anyone would produce a header with different shaped ports. You'd have to go out of your way to do that. So odd.

Has anyone used their coated 3/2 header? I've asked them if the tubes are of equal length, and they said they don't know, which is odd. Anyone know anything about this header? Header Exhaust Ceramic Coated 240Z 260Z 280Z 70-76 | Z Car Depot Inc Thanks.

That's a good idea. Still on the fence, but need to do something before driving season starts. Too cold and snowy here in the winter.

Thanks guys.

I've been searching various sites online for something in the 205-215 width, but there's not much to choose from. I've got some Potenza's on there now that are about 10 years old and kinda hard and slippery. Any recommendations? Thanks!