Jaymanbikes

Thanks for the lead, I will inquire with them next week.

I do plan on driving them there. Thanks

Does anyone know of a resource for Cad or Cad like plating in N.E. Florida or as far South as Orlando?

After living with my complete urethane system for about 6 months and 1500 miles or so, I would concur with EuroDat. I was advised to drill the tension rod bushings to soften them and am happy with this. The mustache bar seems to be the main noise culprit, then again my car has lowering springs making things even stiffer. I replaced the trans mount bushings at time of trans rebuild. Im so damn happy to be rid of the rumbling bearings that I haven't noticed anything negative due to installing them.

Here is the set-up I received. I have not seen a fuel rail run in this manner, looks clean.

siteunseen, question about your blue/black hose routing. Yours is routed the same as my factory set-up. Geoff's is reversed, doesn't seem to matter, would you agree?

Ahh, that makes sense. Yes, I did buy his set-up from him, thanks for the tip on that one BTW. Hopefully going to save me a lot of time and dollars as opposed to fixing my old system up.

Thanks guys, that was my guess, also explains why the hoses seem to be a home-made retro.. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Slowly learning everything I can about the EFI system on my 77-280Z. I'm fortunate to have a 77K mileage car that runs great, just really tired looking under the hood. I have purchased another EFI system that has been cleaned up and shaved of the EGR. Its my desire to slowly switch over things and learn along the way. . Can someone tell me the purpose of the attached water inlet under the air regulator. It was omitted from the system I purchased and I wonder what impact this might have on performance of the EFI. I have been unable to find it in the FSM. Thank you

I am going to refresh the Rats Nest EFI system on my 77 280Z. I have a spare intake and would like to shave the EGR and then have it powder coated. I'm interested in how others have done this. Also, debating on which fuel rail to get to replace my old 3 piece unit, either a 78 (or newer) single piece rail or get Palnet to make one up for me. Appreciate any thoughts on pros/cons.

Nice work, after doing mine I had about $1,000 in chiropractic bills.

Great, I sent him a PM to see if he still has it and or is interested in selling it.

No I didn't clear coat and that might be the ticket. I just have had really good luck with Powder coating and it's very affordable at the shop near me. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yep, I do have the 3 piece fuel rail and the one piece is on my list of parts to get. I have an extra intake and plan to block off the EGR if I use the header. A second motor probably not in the cards.. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks for the tip and you are correct, one of the studs, #6 I believe is gone.

I have a 77 280Z, the car runs fantastic but the EFI looks really tired. The exterior of the car is pretty well complete along with suspension being rebuilt. So at some point I would like to refresh the EFI, get the old parts that were Cad plated re-plated, replace all the hoses, have the intake powder coated etc. etc. I have taken a ton of pics to help with reassembly. I also have essentially a complete extra EFI intake with much of the hardware. One of the things that scares me a bit is, will I be able to get the intake and exhaust manifold off the car without shearing one or more of the studs. Any thoughts on that other than trying to soak everything with PB Blaster? I also have a header that I was considering using, I plan on leaving the engine stock at this time so not sure the header will provide any performance benefit, thoughts?

I essentially did what you are doing about 6 months ago. Looking back I wish I would have had everything powder coated. The finish looks better and will last longer. I am seeing some surface rust peak out here and there, then again I live in a coastal area so...

Once the car does not hit the reserve they move it into the bid goes on area. The price is totally negotiable at that point and time between the owner and the prospective buyer, Mecom acting as an intermediary. The final bid has nothing to do with anything really. I negotiated a deal on a 67 Corvette for $50K it had a reserve of $58 and the final bid was $55. Best time to negotiate obviously is on or near the end of the auction weekend.

Synthetic gear Lube LS 75W-90 https://mobiloil.com/en/gear-lubricants/mobil-1-synthetic-gear-lube-ls

I have a 1977 280z with a 5sp with 75k miles. The car sat up for approx 10 years, I purchased it approx 6 months ago and got her up and running. The clutch was slipping and had what I thought was a slight throw out bearing rattle. I had a shop replace the clutch, throw bear bearing and I also had them put a new resurfaced stock flywheel. Within a week or so I have got a rattle that goes away when the clutch is engaged. I can also hear it as I am in lower gears moving but seems to go away as I get into 3 and 4th. The Trans shifts very smoothly. It was suggested that I replace the Trans Lube to a Redline oil. I wasn't able to get it locally so I used a Mobile 1 product. After the change I didn't notice any improvement. Looking for suggestions as to next logical step. Would it be worth ordering the Redline oil and giving it a try. After reading some of the threads my thought it that it is the input/pilot bearing? I appreaciate any suggestions and or thoughts!