datfreak

thanks for the feedback guys - I kinda knew the ebay route was going to be annoying. @240k style - the other bidder has a low feedback score but at least Ive met him and know he exists.

Hi, I have my 240k on ebay at the moment( one in toowoomba) -- I have had two, 0 feedback bidders - bidding against each other , I contacted them both and have had NO reply, so ive cancelled their bids. I have now added a note to the ad asking people with less then 10 feedback to contact me before bidding. google found : ZERO-FEEDBACK-BIDDERS WTF would anyone do this? As a seller I hate this - it makes the whole auction process feel flakey. So - has anyone else had this issue(esp with 240k stuff) ? sorry for the rant

Hey Conz, as above I really dont know what it is worth so I'll let ebay run its course. If it doesn't sell that way, a local buyer would be useful! In the log book of the car - it appears the car was bought NEW in Toowoomba (inc 1st service in 1974) which is kinda cool

ok - listed on ebay- search toowoomba 240k.

Its such a pity that the PO had taken the boot lid off as the rust in the boot is by far the worst in the car. Anyways - Ill get around to listing the thing on ebay soon. I know its rough but would a $1500 min be too much? - Im thinking that I should keep it in the shed to fix up in another 5 years ..but im more of a z person

thanks guys for the interest - ive been away but will get pics soon. The car is very much a project. Its a country car but still has rust as it has been left outside unused for a long time. 4/1974 240k coupe (over 40 years old!)- auto with a l28. White outside with black interior. the bad: The boot lid is missing so water has eaten the wheel well totally and the some of the back of the bottom rear sills. there is also minor rust in driver side sills and a small amount on the bottom of each door. The bottom of the guards there is some rust. The bonnet is dented and is rusty where the damage is. The back of the car looks like its been reversed into a pole but not hard - probably why the boot lid is missing. Center console is missing. It has a small sunroof. The top of the dash and seat are cracked and will need recovering. The good: I've taken all the seats out and looking above and from underneath the floors are in very good condition- the worst is a pin sized hole next to a water drain plug but 99% of it looks very good. The engine bay has very little rust - ie only a little surface rust on one rail. Looking under and into the wheel arches there is some light surface rust but nothing that needs any new metal. The gauges look good, glass all there. The car has some minor dents but doesn't appear to ever had a hard hit. When i list it or even if I dont, I'll put some pics here (or links to some). ed: Very unlikely for anyone to want this but I would consider swapping it for a 240z of similar condition

hi 240k style. I'll suss out some photos in the next few days-- before the weekend. I was going to list it on gumtree but it is kinda hard to value as I cant find any coupes for sale to compare. There are lots of wanted ads tho I was thinking of ebay but sometimes that can be more trouble then its worth. anyway, when I have pics (or list it online) I let you know cheers

hi, i will be listing a 240k coupe in a week or 2 on ebay(or gumtree). Im in Toowoomba queensland also conz

thats how ive always done mine too but I always wondered if i was doing it wrong. thanks guys

Hi all, just restarting a old post. What is the surface of the piston, is the outmost face or is it the rebated groove where the "hole" is???

after reading zsaint post i'm more confused-- that is how I thought it worked at the start--low throttle = high advance.. Maybe the datsuns just like it the other way? Anyways-- Im running it as bob said(and the way it was setup originally) and it runs fine. thanks bob

Hi all, sounds like a simple question but ive rung several shops(like repco,autobarn,autopro ect) and there is no listing for my 71 240z airfilter. There is a listing for '73 and above but Ive heard that they are not the correct size for a 71 240z. Ive found a "fram" brand one on z-spares online but they have a min $50 buy- so i would have to buy 3 of them. where do you all get your filters?

hey Jim, curious if the electric fan helped with your motor revving, Ive read that it does(because of the less drag)--what do you think?

to test the vaccum advance, put a small length of vaccum hose on the dizzy advance unit and suck hard on the other end.. it will "give" a little but it shouldnt leak----if you can draw lots of air thru it its stuffed if you have the cap off you will also see the plate move, which advances the dizzy.

thanks bob for getting me on the right track.. I nearly changed stuff for nothing.

I always thought that the more load a motor has the more chance of pinging- so a motor needs to be less advanced(at the same rpm) under throttle vs a motor with no/little throttle. But i may be wrong(it happens alot) Im getting my vac unit from a place called dizzy world in Australia.. at $80au (?$50us?)

Hi all- I just did the e80-early 80's skyline electronic dizzy conversion on my '71 240z- and I'm amazed at the difference-ie easy to start(dont need hardly any choke now) and seems revver. The vaccum advance units is stuffed in the electric dizzy but I've ordered a new one and will have it this week. Now my question. The vaccum hose off my carbie(std 240z carb- takeoff on left one) has no vaccum at idle but has lots of vaccum on open throttle. So.. the dizzy will advance at open throttle but not at idle. Shouldnt it be the other way around???with lots of vaccum advance at idle,then retard to normal at throttle to prevent pinging? If im right, shouldnt i take vaccum from the balance tube instead of the carbie, so there is advance at idle? Anyone like to share some ideas?

i found a few today BUT all have stuffed vaccum advances.. nissan wants $100 for the part.. I did a few phone calls and it seems there isnt a aftermarket replacment.. The $100 isnt the issue-- i just hate being ripped

Ok Is the 280zx the only model that has the normal conversion "80" module electric dizzy? I have heard 280c's and same r30's have the same but i wanted to make sure before i went wrecker hunting.

I'm posting this here because it involves aust models. Is the 280zx the only model that has the normal conversion "80" module electric dizzy? I have heard 280c's and same r30's have the same but i wanted to make sure before i went wrecker hunting. My current 280zx dizzy has a stuffed vaccum advance unit and probably needs a rebuild anyways.. Is there any rebuild kits for these? Any ideas?

luke, thank you so so much...you just saved me $ !

Would a 3mm overbore help with the head work?.. ie -its more room for bigger valves without notching the block- and more room for chamber reshaping, valve deshrouding etc plus the bigger overbore will increase the C.R. (with the bigger displacement) with flattops anyway THere is some place here in aust that made copper head gaskets to any size overbore for approx $100aust. I cant find their web page now but ill dig it up somewhere. but if these pistons are going to be hard to get/make, its prob easier and cheaprer to use 40thou flattops.

Thats a good web site.. Nice looking gear but a bit too pricey. $660 is in US dollars right? So prob about $800-900 AUst dollars with freight- Im not sure if they come with rings. Are the big valve recesses needed--Dont most people use flattops-even with high lift cams? L28 40thou+(87mm) flattops sell for approx $260 approx here in Australia +$150 for rings , but of course im really keen on 89mm ones. I'll keep that website if i plan on boosting my budget

Ive done a bit of a search and a few have touched on this but id like more ideas. I understand that with a LD28 cranl/l24 rods, there are pistons the can be made to fit- with fly cutting etc. But im more interested in keeping the std l28 crank and rods and just using 120thou flattop oversize pistons- without having to get them made up custom(too much $$$). Anyone know of any other piston combo that would work.? thanks