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Also check all 4 plugs at idle for baseline colour then run at highway speed for 5min then do an ignition cut and coast to the side of the road to check plugs. This will tell you if you are running richer or leaner than idle at highway speed. If your carbs are balanced, valves are sealing, no intake leaks, and ignition is good then the difference is due to your needle shape.

Late to the fight but for future readers, this may help:

When you transition, it is the damper that prevents the piston (and needle) from moving too fast or too slow. @Austin 1800 If the damper opens too fast, you will go lean during transition, if it opens too slow, you will go rich during transition. You can experiment by removing the oil from the plunger and test driving then replace the oil with a thick 30wt and test driving to see the two extreme transition speeds of the piston and judge if this is helpful. As you mention it could be advance. It also could be SU piston binding or wrong needle profile. Are your carbs balanced? If not, have a look here: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39221-quick-and-dirty-su-tuning/?tab=comments#comment-352697

Try the Merc dealer... our L engines are traceable to the source ?

Liberty Media Sucks http://autoweek.com/article/formula-one/report-new-f1-logo-may-violate-3m-copyright

Use polypropylene to filter it mechanically. You can get the stuff at a dollar store: Cheap hazmat suits are 100% polypropylene. Anode Filter Bags are polypropylene as well.

https://www.bbc.com/news/av/business-44460980/this-car-is-on-autopilot-what-happens-next

When the control valve opens under engine vacuum, the purge line then opens and again engine vacuum is used: it draws engine compartment air through the carbon. This air then draws the trapped gas on the carbon surface into the intake to be burned. The problem is that the engine compartment air is filled with oil vapour, dust, and occasionally insects. All of this will be pulled through the charcoal and eventually coat it. The carbon is a much better container than the 240z way: store it in the block. FYI New Honda Direct Injection Turbo CRVs now store gas in the block: http://www.hondaproblems.com/trends/crv-oil-contamination/

Note: At least one of the three rubber hoses to the CC has a small plastic orifice in it.

If you have a long pipe running for most of the transmission tunnel then it will drone. Your silencer or a glass pack, placed in the middle of the long run, will quiet the drone. A glass pack will flow better.

So maybe try back flowing warm water by pumping it into the outlet on the top with valve held open by vacuum. If it has inhaled oil over the years, some soapy water may help remove the coating on the charcoal.

I read this on an aquarium maintenance site for cleaning carbon filter: 1. Run warm water through the charcoal to rinse out impurities if using loose charcoal. If using charcoal cartridges, allow warm tap water to run through the cartridge for several minutes. 2. Hold the rinsed charcoal up near your ear. If you hear a sort of subtle crackling or popping noise emanating from the charcoal, place it back into the filter. If you hear nothing, the charcoal is no longer activated and should be replaced with fresh carbon.

"Made in Japan" for Z guys means 100% perfect fit and function.

Great. No need to rush. I think the work is providing a lot of new and interesting observations that will help all. I think your fuel is close enough to 29mm to be fine for now. After seeing the shape of Leon's A/F is similar to yours (and I am pretty sure he runs 25mm), fuel level does not seem to affect WOT run shape significantly.... but I bet he has a very rich cruise ? . Also from your work it seems the accel circuit does not seem to affect the WOT run shape significantly so you can keep whatever you have in there for now. It may become more prevalent if the man jet goes smaller. The only recommendation I can give is never to use the 00 exhaust as it will burn too much fuel every time you press the accelerator pedal. You may wish to apply copper anti-seize to both sides of your manifold gasket. It helps seal and makes future maintenance and replacement easy.

Attached below is a pdf of all the tests conducted to date. They are plotted with the 12.5 to 13A/F sweet spot of the dyno tests, Plots #4, #11, and #14 are good fits to the A/F curve of the EFI system in the dyno video. # 4 35mm F16 155/170 50% in sweet spot 50% rich by 0.5 point max #11 35mm F16 155/225 65% in sweet spot 35%lean by 0.5 point max #14 35mm F16 160/230 35% in sweet spot 30% lean by 0.5 point max & 21% rich by 0.5 point #4 #11 #14 FYI: F2 tube had tightest and smoothest shape but it was very rich. Further exploration with 140 to 145main and 180ish air corrector may be worth testing. #16 35mm F2 160/230 blodi af Summary.pdf

Any bag will blow around and scuff the paint outside. If you could use polyethylene vapour barrier and find an iron to melt it shut then install a vacuum port to a shopvac on a timer .... now your talking.

I am analyzing their data now. It is interesting the first run with just the Webers and stock distributor have the same wonky A/F Run that seems to be on nearly all 45DCOE's on L engines....with the big dip at start and a wide range (from 11 to 14 A/F in this case) Below: No big change at all to the A/F or power (surprised that no low-end gain) with the 45DCOE plus the highly customized electronic ignition system. Below: The final results are interesting comparing the EFI to Webers on the same graph. A/F below 115km/h (where DCOE has a big rich dip) seem to make little difference in power between carb and EFI w timing. In comparing the power to A/F, it seems that by smoothing the higher RPM A/F be between 12.5 and 13.0 made the biggest improvement in power.

NOS

I noticed #3 stamped on the pistons and #3 stamped beside each bore on the L26 I just rebuilt. Factory sizing tricks so that you pull from the right bin.

A Subway map for the planet!

Courtesy of Hoover Plate and number match but stickers vary. Either different stages or different races.

https://youtu.be/6D-hhERRf20 https://youtu.be/vHONrfJgTJ4