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Helped my buddy fire up his 260z with rebuilt motor. Purred like a kitten. Ran in the crank at 1500rpm for 20min then did a moly ring reseating run. Fun had by all!

Remember to pour beer on your cereal instead of milk and you're golden.

I read that overhearing the driver's verbal humour can crack them up.

I looked at the video. It is dripping from the accelerator jet. The problem seems to be in that circuit. What size spill jet do you have (#27)? Are the balls (#23) seating?

Looks great! Glad you got the cooling system sorted. btw if you are ever in a pinch for a simple gasket, you can take the metal part and press it into the cardboard from a breakfast cereal box. Cut out the indentation with a blade and you have a gasket. Some gasket sealer such as the molasses-like Permatex Aviation Sealant works great (put on all FOUR surface to tack for 5 min then assemble). Some autoparts shops also sell rubber, coated paper, and cork gasket material in A4 sized (or similar) sheets. https://youtu.be/nBG9C0Py0Ks?t=50s

Yeah! Monaco GP weekend and Jeff sends out another video. Life is good!

What a ****ed up world if this is "normal".

Systems were disabled... https://www.reuters.com/article/us-uber-crash/uber-disabled-emergency-braking-in-self-driving-car-u-s-agency-idUSKCN1IP26K?il=0

Enjoy these http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/explodedviews/280z/index.html

btw you do not need to buy new plugs, just clean those with carb cleaner and re-install. If they re-carbon, continue cleaning and trying to resolve the problem. Once you get the over-fuel sorted, the plugs will clean themselves.

Yes, the value is the hole size. When you press the gas pedal, a piston in the carb squirts gas in two directions. 1. Through the Accelerator Jet hole and into the throat of the carb 2. Through the hole in the spill jet above and back into the fuel bowl The ratio of the two hole sizes determines how much fuel goes each way. - When you have 00 spill jets, all fuel goes into the throat. - When you replace the spill jet with a bolt, no fuel goes anywhere and eliminates the Acceleration circuit . From you results above, it seems the large dip at the start is not caused by the Acceleration Circuit. For a next step, keep the acceleration circuit bolted shut and lower the fuel level 2 mm.

Usual cause is wiring to water temp sensor in thermostat housing. If the wire is mixed up with another or disconnected, too much fuel is the usual outcome.

W|OW!!! Thanks!

Try removing the white plastic washer/grommet pieces. Here are some photos from a Jan 71 240z I refreshed

We saw lots of nice cars. Here are a few that I managed to catch with my camera:

Some photos the seller shared with me. The Z is from 1974. Mercedes 190SL Lombardi Officina Trasformazioni Automobili Sportive (OTAS)

Some details @kats may like: It is interesting that both Tokico and Hitachi made some of the rubber parts. Hitachi part numbers seem to start with "222-" The parts were purchased in 1974. The diaphragm below is 6" diameter. 44100-E4127 Kit-A 44100-E4127 (Kit-A) 44112-30001 Rear 7/8 Wheel Cylinder Seal 44124-E0210 Dust Cover 41129-30001 Bleeder Cap 44144-E4110 Dust Cover 222-2110011 6" Hitachi Brake Booster Diaphragm 222-24100 6" Hitachi Brake Booster Front Seal

I think it should go to Steve Nixon for the community.

https://www.olx.pt/anuncio/pecas-datsun-240z-travagem-IDz8bHP.html#af6aa94a5e 240z NOS all brake rubbers and rebuilds for master, wheel cylinders, and vacuum booster. Even has the bleeders and caps.

You do not have to shim the head if you are changing the timing chain: 1. You can move the chain a link and use the 3 optional cam positions to align the timing mark on the cam sprocket where you want it. (The crank sprocket will be at TDC). 2. Once aligned you then adjust the slack side guide to take up all the slack so that the tensioner is pressed all the way in. Some top bolt holes on the slack side guide need a bit of reaming to move clockwise to take up the slack.

I'm in portugal until Monday. I'll plot after that. Yes plug spill jets and increase main to get a/f below 13.7 on wot run from 3000 to 6000 rpm.

Cliff, @siteunseen I am sorry to correct you but you are actually correct. The original head bolt washers have a smooth edge on the top side and a sharp edge on the bottom side. Got your back! :)

Wow they look great! While you were fixing your Z @duffman and I were optimizing his setup which is similar to yours (L28 w 40DCO 151). Here are his settings: Weber DCOE 40 151 choke - 32 mm Auxiliary- 4.5 mm Float needle valve - 1.75 Fuel level - 27 mm Idle jets - (drilled: 60F9 with air drilled to 150 (Equivalent to 60F15) ) Idle mix screws - 2 1/4 turns out Emulsion tube - F2 Main jets - 135 Air corrector jet - 161 (drilled) Pump jet- 45 Pump exhaust - 50 He is setup for flat 13.3 A/F WOT from 3000 to 6000 Cruise at 30mph is 14.5 Cruise at 60mph is 14.5 Idle is 14.5 His car is set up like EFI!