240260280

Cliff wanted to see pictures @siteunseen

I also find that green radioactive glow of the painted markings soothing for some strange reason.

ouch!

I do the same but with two steps: 1. Make sure the top of the float is parallel with the metal beam attached to its top. 2. With the lid off, upside down, and in front of your face, blow into the gas inlet while moving the float. It should block your breath when the metal beam is parallel to the top of the lid. If not, bend tang until you get it right,

I guess I am old school. I just like to only see the markings on the instrument illuminated, not the face or the enclosure. Like this: Not this:

Some tips: - fuel rail only flows one way, as well as pump and most filters, make sure flow is correct through all. - you can quickly prime carbs by pouring fuel through fuel bowl vents to get it running quickly. - run outlet of fuel rail to container to verify fuel flow into container when cranking.

https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-03-25/china-seeks-its-own-brains-to-steer-30-million-autonomous-cars

https://www.reuters.com/article/us-autos-selfdriving-uber-mobileye/mobileye-says-its-software-would-have-seen-pedestrian-in-uber-fatality-idUSKBN1H22LM

Beautiful work.

You could use this setting as a baseline for a few days and then give the jets a further 1/2 turn down to see if it runs better after you have a feel for the baseline.

So 3 DCOE's w/o manifold for 3 ITB's?

Maybe they won't recognize this set: http://www.racechairs.com/rampipe_coffee_set_p/art40161.htm

You do realize that Janet will kill you in October if I bought those.

Join the Z Car Club of New England too. Great group! http://zccne.org/

I concur. Looks great! How does the problematic plug look?

"Painted" my buddies L26 block with phosphoric acid in preparation for real paint. Currently -2C now but 8C and sunny tomorrow.

Good point. The reason I went for the middle is to be safe and the Datsun FSM middle of range value aligns with the rule of thumb value for street cars. If the space is set too close, a period of too much sustained heat (like track racing) may expand the ring ends into each other and bind the piston. Also, the Datsun rings I removed were chrome whereas the replacements I purchased are molybdenum coated iron so they may expand differently. The rule of thumb coefficient changes for the application as max temperature and duration of max temperature can make the ring expand even more. For example the gap for a turbocharged track car is much greater. Here is a nice page to introduce most aspects of a piston ring: http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-ring-gaps.2837/

McCormick, Anderson, Mayhew, Rychlewski, New Developments in Piston Rings for the Modern Diesel Engine, SAE 750769 http://www.diagnosticengineers.org/journal_ articles/Ring Gaps vs Knowledge Gaps.php

1974 (and 1970) FSM states 2nd Ring gap for 260z (or 240z) is 0.15mm to 0.30mm (Avg = 0.23mm) Recent dyno tests now recommend the 2nd ring gap be larger than the first to reduce ring flutter caused by inter-ring build-up. The FSM average top ring gap of 0.30mm matches the 0.0040" per inch of bore rule of thumb. The new data suggests that for the above rule of thumb, the 2nd ring should be 0.0045" per inch of bore which equals 0.37mm 2nd ring gap. What are you all using...old or new?

Me typo too.

Maybe the test was to kill someone and see how much it is going to cost?

Started to fit new rings (ITM). - FSM Gap range is 0.230mm to .0380mm (avg = 0.305mm) - Rule-of-Thumb Gap range is 0.249mm to .0332mm (avg = 0.291mm) - The gap for the original top ring in #1 was 0.69mm. - The ITM gap is 0.290mm (perfect as is). Any idea why the stock gap was so big? 0.69mm = 0.027" (maybe the previous engine builder mixed 0.27mm for 0.027") ?

Drive in the Philippines. People will walk backwards into traffic. Here we have to watch out for deer . The driver in that vehicle was looking at phone, no hands on wheel, and most likely off the gas and brake. It is a joke having a human in those cars and claim they are in control. They are bums and the companies pushing this bad idea are evil.

I think next time I'll get a hot plate and big enamel lobster boiler and boil them with spray-9 to see how it works. If you go the water cleaning route, you need to oil them to prevent rust, especially the spring metal plates inside. I read that some have luck just soaking in diesel/furnace oil for 24 hours.

I just did a few parts from some SK's when I first got the Ultrasonic, Yesterday I did all 6 pistons. They came out great. 3 things that make a difference: 1. Pre-cleaning helps. I soaked pistons in hot water with Spray 9 heavy duty cleaner and used a brass wire brush to scrub. When the rings were removed I used a 4mm and 2mm ring cleaner to get the groves. 2. The ultrasonic bath must be very hot with a good cleaner (spray 9 again as it is nice to aluminum) 3. Run the ultrasonic for two 10min cycles with a movement between. It is not nearly as nice as Duff'd vapour blasting but they come out very clean.