240260280

260z for a friend.

Yes, 1. Manifold vacuum port is high when idling. 2. Ported vacuum is high when off idle and when cruising. Cars start easier with less advance (so that an early [advanced] explosion does not push the slow moving crank somewhat backwards when cranking at 200rpm). Cars accelerate better just off idle with more advance. Cars use less fuel at cruise with higher advance. You need to find a ported vacuum advance source. Usually these are tapped near the throttle plate and come out to a small pipe.

Heating manifold is a good thing: 1. Condensed fuel evaporates faster. 2. Less condensed fuel on colder days when engine warms up.

Route the hose next to the float bowl so that it presses against the line, you will be more accurate that way.

Fired up the brass wire brushes, ultrasonic cleaner and bucket of spray 9 cleaner. Also used Zep Purple for the heavy stuff. All went well... now an expert at removing rings. Can't separate the oil pump yet... it is a tough one. My propane touch will convince it tomorrow.

Could be wrong needles.

It is impossible to tell by looking at the lids. You have to look at the fuel height in the fuel bowl. Do this: 1. Draw line at 20mm or 23mm down. 2. Put measurement hose against the line. 2. Adjust tang until fuel level matches line on each bowl. 3. Done

That looks perfect! No need to adjust fuel pressure.

If you increase or decrease the fuel pressure, it is possible the fuel height will change and mess things up. If you are between 2.5psi and 4psi you are good. Set it once then leave it. Then adjust the fuel level using the float tang. For the most part, fuel pressure will only only determine how fast the bowls refill. It must not be too high so as to overpower the float's buoyancy pressure. It is not something you need to play with. The stock fuel pressure is ~3.4 psi.

Makes me think about things like hood flying open and covering the sensors. Bugs, birds, and road debris covering/damaging the sensors. Sensor redundancy (we have 2 eyes).

Yes, fuel delivery requirement for a non-stock engine or non-stock needle on a stock engine will usually result in deviation from 2.5 turns. As well engine issues may also require a deviation.

The person on the bike was far enough away for the sensors on the Chinese suv to detect as they do not need light. As well an attentive person would have braked, and/or hit the horn, and or swerved. Like I mentioned, the video seems doctored with an unusual black spot covering the person for most of it.... something smells funny.

Hmmm now even more interesting.

The video is obviously manipulated wtf is that black blob that hides the cyclist (with white clothes and blonde hair) for most of the video? Cover up in many ways.

Look at this video. 1. The driver is looking at cell phone, then looks up and kills the cyclist. 2. The cyclist did not jump out in front of the car. They were crossing the road. In my opinion, the driver was useless and the system for detecting objects on the road failed. The contrast on the camera seems to be manipulated as bike reflectors, etc are easily picked up in low light.

Different fuel levels is a mystery. Some speculate that it may have to do with one float swinging open under acceleration while the other closes as the fuel sloshes to the back of the bowl.

The drawing shows the top of bowl as the reference.

Nice work!

Check Fuel Level like below. It states two different levels for those carbs. Funny that average is 23mm down.

Heat resistant silicon on top of shield below carbs will reduce radiation into carb fuel bowls

Here is a design aspect to consider... heat shield with additional tabs between carb and head to divert heat upward. A bit tricky because of congestion and access to carb mounting bolts.

So that makes two different devices: 1. Heat shield: to keep manifold heat away from carbs. 2. Cold air intake: to direct cold air from front of car into carbs. You can consider doing both Chimney-like bending of heat shield can be used to direct hot manifold air to 77 and later 280z hood vents.

Wish I was there. Two key design points: 1. You want the manifolds to be hot. 2. You want the carbs to be cold. So, if the shield is not touching the carbs. it will help keep them cool. You can significantly lower the side near the air horns so that the hot air from the header flows along the shield towards the manifold at idle.

Just scratch a line on the side of each fuel bowl 20mm or 23 mm down from the top lip (you chose 20mm or 23mm). Next, bend you clear hose down then over so that it can be pressed against the line you scratched. Adjust the float tang until the level in the clear tube matches the scratched line. Basically just do what you are doing but bend the clear hose against the fuel bowl... do not have it so far away. 20mm down is very close to the top of that extruded block on the side of the bowl. You can put a mark on that like I did above.

Read this and you will be good. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59745-definitive-70-71-240z-su-fuel-level-thread/