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JSM you may have maleware

Yes but it only just occurred.

Nah, you have to have grown up here to appreciate the car culture over here. Just like I watch Coronation Street and have been to Manchester a few times but haven't lived it.

Site must be hacked I think. @Mike

You guys just don't have the perspective that comes from growing up in the car culture over here. It helps understand why Nissan went after this market. Even if you just consider all of the trucks Nissan made for the USA presence in Japan after the war, then later their realization that all of these soldiers moved back to the USA with an understanding of Nissan trucks. Yokohama was a truck factory for the USA army before it was a Z factory for many of the same families. (See the photo below commemorating 100,000 trucks produced and on some of these on display at Oppama). Goertz was mentioned appropriately and with measure.

You guys are just on the wrong side of the pond to understand.

Goertz worked a little on the first Nissan sports coupe that preceded the Z. He deserves some credit for this fact but the point made above is that he was gone by the end of '64. Matsuo penned the first Z in late 1965 (below). The details of this design evolved along the path to production but it is clear he had it nailed from the start. All other Nissan production sports cars produced in the '60's were convertibles intended mostly for the US market. When the US safety regulations were changing, Nissan reacted, and the Z resulted from this (and other factors). There were many in Nissan/Prince forcing the direction of the Z between '65 and '69 but Matsuo persevered and his design in '65 carried through for the most part.

Weird, I only see it in the quote? I hope the site is not hacked.

Annular Discharge Venturi or just a curved pipe with the exit at the venturi?

Why is there a hyperlink in your quote content? (simply be). I hate the web and this automated crap...Artificial Stupidity "AS" as in arse.

The location of the valve stem hole seems to correlate with the finger spacing. The fewer fingers seem to have hole aligned with spoke. Also one would think that fewer fingers would be earlier but here is a prototype from 67: The differences may simply be due to different suppliers.

Datsun NL75 Photos (picture above disappeared):

Set of DCOE's and Intake for 1100UKP?

Bob Sharpe June 1965 Vinelands, NJ http://www.datsun.org/fairlady/bsr1965article.htm

Looks like a hill at Lime Rock in the background. So it would be a view from inside the track looking out before turn 1.

5A Made in USA: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SCIENCE-KIT-BOREAL-LABORATORIES-LOW-VOLTAGE-POWER-SUPPLY-64250-15-MADE-IN-USA/162906681501?hash=item25edfeb09d:g:AwcAAOSwecJadz~4 7A Made in USA (Lambda): https://www.ebay.com/itm/LAMBDA-LA-300-VARIABLE-REGULATED-DUAL-METERED-BENCH-DC-POWER-SUPPLY-USA/122812145739?hash=item1c982ca04b:g:N-cAAOSwhpZaDbrZ 24A Made in USA (Lambda...MONSTER): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lambda-Electronics-LLS8018-Variable-Regulated-DC-Power-Supply-18V-24A/173168387372?epid=720639342&hash=item2851a3e52c:g:DwwAAOSwI~taiyTr

Big thanks Charles! I'm now doing the manifold studs and dialed back the current to match 0.18A/in-sq. It works much better so I am dialing back further with each successive stud. Less cloudy deposition. FYI I did an experiment and put the stud close to the plate and could see a gradient of deposition. Powdery near the plate and shiny furthest away. The tank I have is a 5 gallon bucket with a full sheet of zinc around the circumference. For even deposition, it may be good to have the part farthest from the plate and simply rotate it to address shadowing. The chap in this video seems to have that architecture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nmn94B5UUuU Maybe the purpose of the zinc plate is simply to replace what is already in solution so it does not need to be too close to the part... just in the mix.

Please jump on my bandwagon! I just bought a made in Canada bench vise to replace the cheap-Chines- crap-8"-pot-metal-piece-of-$^!# called a "vise". I think one of the PS I have is made in Japan. I picked it up at the equivalent of a Goodwill for $10 mixed up with all the hi-fi stuff.

Stiff TC rod makes cornering over bumps horrible. I went to the ball and socket...what a nice upgrade.

Good stuff and thanks for the current tip and xls!!!! I wish the cheapy vinegar method would have such smooth finish out of the bath like yours but it may not be easy. I'll give it another more proper go with more effort however I'll crack open the Caswell in a month and follow your excellent lead! I plan to make a new plating solution with the vinegar and epsom salts but I'll also try coffee filters as anode bags

I'm lucky and have a couple of lab test bench ps. One is 3 amp and the other is 5 amp. I'm just using the the 3amp with the current limited to ~ 0.25A for a single valve cover bolt for 10min plate. Both power supplies can go into current regulation or voltage regulation.

For boots: NOS leather with string on ebay now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-1970-73-OE-Shift-Boot-Console-NOS-4-speed-NEW-427/323039827512?fits=Model%3A240Z&epid=1922201542&hash=item4b36ac9638:g:PSMAAOxywOtSX~Tr&vxp=mtr

Great idea Dave!

I'll add my low budget work to contrast the beautiful work from Charles. The quality is on the low end of the scale but it is protected. I have not broken out the Caswell kit yet so I am playing with the DIY vinegar, Epsom salts, sugar, zinc flashing, fish tank bubbler, and DC power supply. The only deviations from the typical procedures on the web are that I am dipping in phosphoric acid and wire brushing by hand. Using the cheap method, it is imperative that you wire brush the part very well after plating otherwise it will look like a galvanized chain link fence post. This means a lot of manual labour and time. Plating too long or at too high a current causes crusty finish. A wire wheel on a grinder would make the results even better. Especially if done before and after the plating. Below is a plated and wire brushed valve cover bolt along with one that was in the acid then under soapy water for the past 24 hours. I'll dip it in the acid, scrub in washing machine detergent, rinse, then plate and report back (second picture below). You can see the rough zinc coat on the tip of the top bolt.

If you can clean plugs enough to start (using carb cleaner for example) a properly tuned engine will usually clean them in a few minutes. 5 sets are more than enough to get going. 2 sets would be fine. Just get some carb cleaner and gloves. Do the work in fresh outside air and a cheap dollar store stainless steel bowl.