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Does anyone know the bolt size for the crank on a Datsun 1600 Roadster from 1967? I have to help a guy break the engine free.

Brian Eno produced AND INFLUENCED that TH album.... have a listen to "Before and After Science"... it is just like another Talking Heads album from the same time.

It is Safari Gold.

Waiting for you or someone in 2019 HLS30-00249

SS bolt too long? Call on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vC4RHGvG7M

Sorry. CO you are right. I did not express it quite correctly. Here is the point I was trying to make: If the outside shell is stepped back, then the flange will draw in too far and bind. I mistakenly used outer race shell size rather than the step.

These are the two measurements that need to be the same on both outside bearings. The green has to be the same on both inside bearings.

Cider pumps best in my neck of the woods.

Set up a timing cover and pump with water source and water tower. Turn each pump at same rpm to see which pushes water higher.

This may be simpler image for seeing the loading faces. If the outer flange (right) is hitting the body then the inside or outside race on the outside bearing (green) is too narrow or the bearing is deformed.

Merc M180 and earlier:

I am thinking bearing fitment as well. The inside width of the two bearings and the width of the spacer sum to give the correct spacing of the outer flange from the inner flange. If the outer bearing's inside width (left bearing below) is too narrow, the outer hub/flange will draw against the body of the strut.

I have an unmolested Nov 1969 240z with original glass, odd plastic near-prototype parts that I plan to sell in 2019 on the 50th anniversary. It is also in the designer's favourite colour.

Your timing is now 12 to 32 , you can try 16 to 36 to get more pep once you sorted out the chain. Most Z's like 35 to 38 max timing.

It looks like an Elizabethan collar for a side hill gouger. Must have got mixed up with the off-road hill climbing Nismo suspension parts.

Springs are now NLA from Weber so Spruell had a run of SS replacements made: http://www.spruellmotorsport.com/new-rust-proof-stainless-springs-weber-throttle-shaft-return-spring-p-3555.html

I'm interested. Can you check it out? btw I'll be in Virginia Beach in a few weeks... may make a run over if I can work it out.

Ignition timing has to be set correctly. Triples like lots of timing in the lower rpm's.

It is best to run a line from the thermostat housing back to the pump inlet so that the coolant can circulate before the thermostat opens. This prevents hot spots and also prevents the pump from cavitating.

Suggested Sequence 1. Do you plan to install ZG flares, front air dam, spoiler, bumper change, new performance parts like aluminum radiator, wide/bigger wheels, exhaust, french/delete parts, etc? If so, fit these parts/do work before you strip the car to ensure they work and roughly line up with no interference. 2. Once you have this done then strip the car completely. 3. Address the body work first on stripped shell. 4. In parallel you can work on refreshing the systems (brakes, cooling, wheels, engine, lubrication, steering, ignition, fuel, drive train, wiring/electrical) 5. For reassembly, some like to install engine and suspension/wheels before painting, I like to do this after. Be sure to install the brake and fuel lines before putting engine and drive train in. 6. Do the interior before the glass and trim (except of course door glass and quarter windows which go in before the adjacent interior parts). 7. Put dash in after interior trim and windshield is in place. (put wiper motor and linkage in before windshield).

Reading that paper makes me sick. It is filled with fluff, bs, and poor grammar/English. They are too dumb to even be successful crooks.