240260280
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Everything posted by 240260280
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Also check needle valve on carb #2 to make sure fuel delivery is not clogged or valve stuck. -
The fuel routing is a little unorthodox. Try running a rubber line directly from the pump to carb 1 and block after carb 3.
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Are fuel levels the same? Are any gaskets leaking? What are jet sizes in each carb?
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You are a machine! I get tired just reading your threads!
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You could put adhesive sound deadener on the roof (except where the patch is) to make it level then put the roof liner on it.
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Remove the screws and fill with same adhesive then skim bondo over.
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"Mr. Chips" of the car world!
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Good luck. Sometimes you can feel for the blast from an exhaust leak or see a build up of soot.
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Ditto. They must have had an apprentice do the front 3 then the expert had enough and stepped in for the back 3. I blame "the kid" Now if you went the S20 way:
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Oops! I forgot to push to the web site. They are uploading now.
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Here is a work in progress reference for Weber DCOE's: http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html A document link at the bottom has Dellorto information.
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Excellent work! You are brave to dive into the carbs like that!Good Stuff.
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Convergent thinking
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btw here is an inexpensive higher temperature duct tape available at Home Depot (212F). I think John and the gang at ZCCNE liek the name: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-1-89-in-x-30-yd-Dryer-Vent-Installation-Tape-1390801/207203955 And another from 3M (600F): https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-High-Temperature-Flue-Tape-1-5-x-15/21176959
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Nice routing! It triggered me to think of another alternate dead-head routing: 1. Use Evap vent line with electric pump in back 2. Tap into this line at front of transmission tunnel. 3. Run rubber to FPR on fire wall then to rear carb. 4. Some heat shield from exhaust may be needed.
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I agree with your theory...tensioner came apart and they just ignored the spring when returning the tensioner to its home. Chain timing was off when they put the tensioner back or it skipped a link or two due to the missing spring and caused the valve/piston contact. The timing chain being off also contributed to the lower compression and the bent valves contributed to the variance in compression.
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lNo need to rush. Life is more important. I read the Tom Monroe Engine Rebuild book's section on engine noise and it mentions rod knock can occur on deceleration. If the noise is still there, it may be best to drop the pan and see what is going on. A first step would be to do an oil change and filter the oil to see if there are bearing fragments.
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Cliff, I have a friend who may be interested. I'll let him know. Philip
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Just a thought: I think the characteristic shape we see with all E Tubes where the richness over-shoots on launch may be due to the squirt from the accelerator system. The area in the dashed box below is what I refer too. I think the liquid fuel squirt is too much and it over enriches the A/F ratio. I also think it continues for a while as the liquid will hit the manifold walls and will take time to evaporate and become consumed. (See the MP4 video below) Weber 40 DCOE acceleration jet.mp4 To test my hypothesis, once your valve train is sorted and you do some F2 runs. I would be grateful if your could do a run with the spill jet (item 12 in drawing below) blocked by metric bolts. This will turn off the accelerator circuit and hopefully remove the rich dip on start. Thanks!
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I did a search and one possible cause could be timing chain tensioner not taking up slack and the noise would be chain slap. You may be able to replicate by revving a warmed engine by hand. For valve noise: You can pull plugs and use a remote starter to turn over engine. While it turns, a mechanics stethoscope can be used to hear valve noises. At high rpm deceleration, there is considerable vacuum pull in the cylinders but it should not rattle anything.
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Looks like an aftermarket Nardi:
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I cleaned my cam (above) with scotch brite pad. Some light oil helps too. Those spring retainers are titanium or aluminum.
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Just catching up on the thread. Rusty cams clean up nicely.
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You can pull each plug one-at-a-time while idling to see which cylinder is at issue.
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Check your valve lash for the tapping. Usually that is the cause and an adjustment will cure it. Also make sure the rockers are getting oil form all holes in the lobes or oil bar.
