240260280

It may have been the result of someone's attempt to fix the problem of the high pressure pump.

Sounds like a plan!

Charles will you be in Fburg on Monday?

We got your back on this forum. Come back anytime you have a question.

@dat260, I may be in Montreal later this summer. I work remotely in N.S. for a company with an office in St. Laurent. I should be able to come by and fully tune your Z. I'll PM you when the trip is firm. For your problem, have you looked at, and compared, plug #2 (which represents the front carb) and plug #5 (which represents the back carb)? Also make sure all of the bolts holding the air intake manifold to the head are snug. The manifold seal should not allow air to get into the head.

You can put a fuel regulator down stream to get you out of the water but if it ever fails you could have fire risk.

Sounds like the fuel pump pressure is too high or the needle valves in the fuel bowls are no closing. Check to see what kind of pump is installed on the car. Carbs only need 3 to 4 psi. If you have just the stock pump then take the fuel bowls apart and get the needle valves to work.

Well I am dragging my posterior on getting a Z web site going but the domain is 240260280.com thus the branding change

Thanks guys! That is what I needed to hear!

The Precision door seal in my friends 240z driver side is falling apart. What is a good proven option to replace it with? Thanks!

If you still have the small 240z brake booster, up-size to the 280z booster. It will sort you out nicely. Interesting end brace on the throttle rod. Never saw that before!

There is a used red and black set on Ebay for $150 now

Luxury Interior!

Us too. Not in a Z but we'll see what the rentals can do.

Hi All, I just sent a PM requesting emails and phone numbers. I'll make a list and distribute. If I missed you just pm me with the details and I'll append and resend the revised list. Janet and I are looking forward to seeing good friends old and new! "Love people. Love cars. Love life"

WOW THAT IS SOMETHING I NEVER KNEW! Thanks Dennis!

I believe Goertz's contract started in May 1963 and ended in November 1964. 1.5 Years. His last duty was the Nov 1963 Tokyo Motor show and the CSP-311 release. I have seen his name raised in the very early British 240z articles in Q1, 1970. I think that is the source of the Myth.

Jeff, Here is how it fit on my friend's 71 at the same point. The Precision rubber kit was used. It fit tight so I had to tape it to keep from pulling off.

Nearly there!

Imperial Drill size to Weber Jet Size 3/64" = 119 1/16" = 159 5/64" = 198 3/32" = 238 7/64" = 278

If you can get a 3/32" drill bit, you can drill out your 185's to "238" as an experiment. Home Depot has them: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-3-32-in-Titanium-Split-Point-Drill-Bit-2-Pack-DW1372/202248725

http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1979-datsun-280zx-3/

I wish I was there with my jet drills! They make tuning faster and cheaper. Below is the 150 & 195 run graph (black) fitted over the 155 & 185 run graph (purple). This overlay confirms the overall shape did not change so the air corrector was not enough to lean the high end. Below is the 150 & 195 run graph (black) with the 155 & 185 run graph (purple). They are matched to the A/F scale The change in air and fuel simply leaned the overall curve by 1 point. So to flatten the top end you need to go larger with the air corrector. Try the 155 main with the 195 corrector to give us another data set then we may be able to estimate air corrector size. To summarize: You may have to keep the 155 and go larger on the air corrector or simply drill the 150 to 152/153 and live with the slight lack of flatness. I recommend trying to attack the shape with the air corrector first.

Idle is Idle is Idle. The only thing to worry about is too rich a mixture that stinks and fouls plugs. Anything from 13 to 16 usually works. 14 to 15 is the least stinky. 13 is more tractable and sounds better.