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Bruce... I agree... but I use the beep for chasing wires to find the right one in a multi-conductor connector or cut multi-conductor cable or similar. It is priceless for those situations.

I'm in the same boat. $100-$200 each here for chrome. The chrome company takes care of the rust.

Jim is that where your white resto ended up?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sterling-Silver-240Z-Sports-Car-Charm-Lobster-Claw-Clasp-Free-U-S-Shipping-/391641748904?hash=item5b2faad5a8:g:50cAAOSwcUBYQIMf

How it's made. I think measuring tape could be stock.

The extra for plating is worth it. I'll go for two sets. My Z is in storage 130km away so I can not send clip samples. It would be good to have the manufacturer test the first few for correct fit before they whip off 200.

There are only a few things to measure on a Z so a cheap multimeter with resistance, continuity beep, and DC voltage will do most tasks. The problem is that the cheap mm's are usually junk. I would recommend getting a basic Fluke MM. It will be a good investment. I currently have 3 cheapies and a crazy-big Fluke 289 logger that eats batteries. The Fluke also has to "boot" which is no fun to wait for. I will get around to selling it and getting a basic Fluke. My old Innova "car multimeter" died. It's only useful feature was measuring rpms; apart from that it was just a regular multimeter. You may be able to use the frequency feature on some multimeters to measure rpm. For Rpm's I now use a digital timing gun with adjustable advance. Works great.

I'll buy 2 sets if you do a run I only have 1 correct hatch so far lol.

Kats, It looks like the plates for the two cars were later changed from Dealer 2177 to: D60 ACJ D61 ACJ

Congrats on marriage! To get that drain bolt out just heat the surrounding aluminum with a propane torch for a minute or two then try turning and/or spaying the heated margin with penetrating fluid then turning.

Please try to avoid ZCar Depot until they stop ripping off and duplicating other people's products. Currently many in the Z community are doing this.

Or run the ignition through a fake cigarette lighter and just take it with you to disable the circuit.

Hey Jim, New wheels are $600-$800. Here in NS a set of slotted mags would be $200-$400 ($50 USD lol). I bet you could get $500-$600 if you do them to the same standard as your car and get them balanced w/o tires (just grind a bit on the side opposite to where the wheel balance machine says to add weight). This extra step would add marketing value when you sell. It would set them apart from the pack. Philip Janet says hi to you and V!

Many thanks Chris, The document arrived a few days ago and was an excellent read! Here is an item related to Nissan Resurrection Project that may be of interest to others. Here is the checklist: Dealer_Factory 240Z Restoration program.pdf

Removing rotor is easiest. Replacing rotor with one 180 degrees out of phase is easier than moving plugs around. When I used to race bicycles, we used to loosen wheel hub cam locks when having to leave the bike for a moment to prevent hop-and-go thieves from going far. A little bit of manual effort but worth it. For a fuel method that is not pump related: SU: 1. Drop jets and jam with a fat C shaped washer to lock them lower and flood car. 2. Make fake SU plungers that are extra long and prevent the pistons from rising. ECU: Install a fake connector into the harness near the thermostat housing and plug it into the temperature sensor when you want the plugs to foul.

WOW! SF hill climbing, pulling parts from a crate, at track with BRE... incredible!

France,Japan, Indonesia, Hungary, China?

The exhaust looks nice. Is it manufactured in Malaysia?

FYI We requested permission to use the Datsun and Nissan logos on our car club hats, bags, shirts, etc. back in 2003. Nissan Canada kindly granted it to our club. Nice people there!

There is a drain hose for the antenna that goes through the body below the antenna. Usually the hose is long gone and it leaves a hole. You may want to look there. Also the rubber flaps that seal the rear hatch vents often curl up and prevent sealing. Lots of early Z exhaust pictures here:

Redwing, Have a peek at this electrical connection near the front of the engine on the drivers side just behind the top of the fan. It may just be loose where it connects to the thermostat housing sensor. Coming loose or simply corrosion on the connectors is the usual suspect when 280z's run rich. The pigtail also has bullet connectors at the other end that can corrode or come loose but problems with the bullet connectors are less common. It would be good practice for you or your neighbour to check these connections. For your fouled plugs, either replace or clean really well with carb cleaner and a brush. Be sure to clean deep down in the space between the ceramic insulator and the metal body.

I read that Brock suffered car failures at the 1969 ARRC at Daytona due to fuel delivery. I noticed that in 1970 he seemed to dead head fuel to each weber with an individual fpr near each carb. Dan Parkinson (15) & Brian Fuerstenau (4) Is the high bank issue related to the fuel pump having to work harder to pull/push fuel up to the engine under the extra G forces caused by the turn (causing a lean feed to all carbs)? Is the float also part of the issue where it, the needle, and the fuel would both be pulled towards the bottom of the bowl and thus causing a higher fuel level? Or would it simply be the fact the cars would run WOT on the straights and continue at or near WOT in the turns thus demanding more fuel for a longer period of WOT time and possibly emptying the fuel bowls by consuming more than the stock design could supply?

Glad to help! I bought the digitized version of Canada Track and Traffic Traffic. The photo is from Feb 1970 issue.