240260280

It seems the wire is heating near the top of the black end that is melting. You may be able to use a thermo-gun to measure the temp of the wire at that point and also at the same point but the other end,,,, then reverse the cable to see if a possible higher temperature remains at the distributor end or if it moves to the coil end. This will tell you if the cable or cap is the problem.

I'm thinking I^2 * R. Charge just builds up on the coil to rotor button section then jumps. That plug-wire to cap contact is huge compared to the small button touch point so it is difficult to see how it could be so resistive there. The connection must be very corroded to heat up and melt plug wire? I don't get it.

wow...never saw that before. Is it Made In China wires? Is it arching there? There is not much current to heat at that point so it is an odd failure.

I just rotated the cam 1 link. I believe there are 42 links between the marks when set up. I had to go to 41 to make up the change. The tensioner takes up the slack.

https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/head/n47_2mm_shave/

I moved a single chain link on the cam sprocket then chose the right offset of the 3. All you have to ensure is that the crank is at tdc then get the cam marks to align.

I took 2mm off an N47 on L28.