240260280

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Cap seems to be problem:

There is a hole under the antenna area for a water drain. Often the drain hose separates leaving a hole between the interior and muffler area.

You may also consider an oil change and magnet sweep.

I think the light colour went at least into 1972 models. Here are two examples:

Upper left "Natural" looks like factory.

It still looks beautiful! Great work!

Very cool. (and unique) Looks like a RHD to LHD conversion happened? If so,could you take some pics of the engine compartment and firewall? It would be great to see what was done!

OK, if you have crank and spark but no injectors then the problem is in the ECU or wiring to/from ECU.

With respect to the early Red Z in the first FSM. Some of the unique parts were photographed and documented. Here is that fuel return part that was first on the fuel bowl then moved to the rail. I wonder if the design and/or part was taken from the twin SU roadster or 510 SS? The different fuel pump routing is also captured in the FSM:

The Phoenix Thread! I love it!

That shift knob looks like it will go to the correct light straw colour with a clear coat or slight tint.

Hi @kats & @Carl Beck, I do think the red car is HLS30-00003. Here are two interesting images from the first FSM with the red car. Do you see a number written in two locations? ?

Don't feel special: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/54044-123-distributor-catastrophic-rotor-failure/

It seems the darker reddish-brown colour is from material aging (UV, hand oil/dirt). All early pictures I have seen indicate a light straw coloured wheel.

I'd like to see if you can get that light straw colour back... may be a light paint?

Sorry about it destroying your exhaust and piston! Could be fake distributor caps that got into the supply chain as you both had the same failure of a robust part that is ubiquitous and easily well made. Thanks for the warning... if the electronics go, I imagine something similar will happen. I would worry cheap/fake Chinese electronic components exposed to all the heat will fail fast just like in Korean cars with Chinese electrics.

Honey, False Flags, Antibiotics.... good old China https://www.theglobeandmail.com/technology/science/honey-laundering-the-sour-side-of-natures-golden-sweetener/article562759/

Ozone hole re-fueling from China https://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-48353341

I first used a dremel tool to cut away the peened/staked part of the nut, but having changed many wheel bearings since, I just get a very small cold chisel and wedge it between the bolt and the nut to push the deformed part outward. Works great. Tip... use a grinder to keep the cold chisel tip in good form.

I had a similar problem. It was due to the ignition switch in the steering column "carboning up". When turning the key fully Clockwise (100%) to Crank/Start, only the electrical contact in the switch for the starter would make, the EFI/ignition contact was kaput and would not give spark. The mystery was that this was intermittent... but becoming worse. I found that if I turned the key to crank only ~ 80% to 90% of the way (where the electrical contacts would all make, it would start fine. Changing out the switch cured the problem.

The car looks great on the road!

Ditto. Been thinking of John often lately and realized it has been over 3 years. RIP.

popping out front is usually due to timing or lean mixture.

The 240Z Guild (Facebook Wankers Hiding behind the great wall?)