240260280

Cruising back from USA to Canada with 3 old Z's. 72 240z auto mirror, 76 280z manual in mirror Somewhere in western New Brunswick ~ 2005

Looks great!

In a 240z I restored: replaced carpets, replaced all vinyl (including roof), replaced seat covers, sprayed all the plastic panels, sealed all holes in cabin, and had the painter spray the interior.... yet the Z smell prevailed. I am thinking dash and wiring are big factors.

https://motor-fan.jp/article/10005253?page=5 In development of Fairlady Z, 67 car prototype cars were installed in collision experiments because consideration for safety at the time of collision was a big theme only for ultra high speed cars. In the case of a frontal collision, a method of absorbing energy by deformation of the front part of the body and reducing the influence on the occupant, in particular, a method of lengthening the nose, further weakening the tip part, and increasing the rigidity near the dash cowl is adopted There. That was supported by an experiment (photo) that collides with a concrete barrier at a speed of 50 km / h. The deformation from the front end of the vehicle to the front cross member part is completely collapsed (deformation amount 853 mm → 300 mm), then the suspension member part is deformed by about half, and the rear part thereof is hardly deformed (deformation amount 750 mm → 710 mm) . In this experiment, the maximum deceleration on the front seat floor surface, 44 G was recorded, but when looking at other cars belonging to the same class, it is 60 to 80 G, and the effect of energy absorption of the body is sufficient - Because this deceleration is extremely short as several tens of milliseconds, the possibility of being tolerable by humans is large. As for the collision from the rear part, in the case of the notch bag type, it is mainly absorbed by deformation of the trunk room, but in Fairlady Z it is fast back, so the rear gate, the roof and the front pillar deform to take energy absorption method It seems to be. It is worth noteworthy that the consideration of the occupant's safe space retention is sufficiently confirmed also in the experiment even in the case of the rear collision.

It was the Fairlady 240 ZR driven by Takahashi Kunimoto / Kenji Tsubairi that kept the milestone race. The 2.4L straight 6 L24 engine which was originally export specification has better compatibility with Z than S20 which was installed in the Z432, and has given good results in a number of races. 1973 Nissan Fairlady 240 ZR

Yes. Keep up the good work!

https://www.foxnews.com/auto/irv-gordon-who-drove-his-1966-volvo-over-3-million-miles-dead-at-78

No worries, just some friendly banter. Good points. Yes the first photos are 280z. Rust is usually at the wheel well lip and at the front-bottom of the quarter panel where water drains. The exhaust heats up the rear corner and keeps it dry. I've seen a quite a few few dings on the corners that look like a tough spot to hammer back. My 72 had these beauty marks:

Shameful brits.... next they will be faking 432R's and pooping on your front step!

Hoover!!!

I understand. I remembered the smell of Florida from 1973 holidays as a child when returning for work in 1997. My Z's smell the same too. It must be the plastic or some fungi that likes the interior. There is one Z that I did not like the smell. It had 12 dead mice in it when it arrived. Horrible lol Everyone liked the pink colour and Ford V8! We tried washing the interior, smell remover, etc. but no success The paint guy in our car club had to strip the interior and clear coat the inside to seal in the stink.

Nice to see where the factory ends are on the weather strip! THANKS!

Sitting on the dock of the bay: Datsun Export Patrol's 1957

Well it is old and picture ?

1983 Nissan Design Studio San Diego

Yes in fact I do. Just not enough time to do it. This section is ~67% complete for example: http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html. It is still missing the tuning section and some revisions/input from working with a DCOE expert in the Czech Republic. The rest of the site should be of similar quality and content. It will focus on technical tasks, modifications, and restorations. There will be a few smaller sections for racing, history, etc.

LOL, I read too quickly and thought you wrote that I'll get a bum's rash on your door step. I guess with all the poop it is possible.

I still love you Alan.... but I'll never visit you at your home... or I'll be sure to wear boots when knocking on your door.

@kats Here is a nice solution for keeping wheel-to-hub nice: Anti-seize The salt on the roads here can bond the wheel to the hub (especially if hub-centric). For a classic liek yours, brushing a light coat of anti-seize on the hub surface reduces/hides rust. I always put on the studs too but others do not. Below is an example of a Miata hub from the net.

フーバー Hoover

Considering a 280z has a German EFI and Japanese everything else, just 30 years after the war, brings it all into perspective.... money wins, young men and civilians lose.

Another in Calgary...if Jim has not picked it up for winter: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/calgary/1968-datsun-520-pickup/1394693629?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Nice work!!!