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FYI: Wintergreen oil is MUCH cheaper when purchased as horse liniment. About $10-$15 for 16 ounces.

NOS may be out there. Here are pictures:

Malvern Racing Circa 1999 The rockers required a custom cam. There was a lot of R&D but no real success. A report of a 10,000 rpm motor for a boat is on zcar.com but it was not a reliable product.

I forgot about these but just came across the picture again. I figured they deserved a re-post.

@SteveJ Hi Steve, tell me more about your BRE tribute? engine. I recall seeing you post about it but I can't find the post. I wanted to show my friend Eric (who has a BRE tribute car here). Looking forward to seeing Goldie #1 in Atlanta. We missed you and Wendy last year.

That is how it was designed. The part was too complex to build as one piece.

Was given a 3 piece spoiler for Blue, my 77 Z. I'll get the G Nose and ZG flares on it then it will be Japanesesque

I'm preparing to enter the ring but with a twist: power washer rather than air compressor to wet blast with glass. It should be possible to recycle the water and filter it to keep any glass out of the high pressure pump however I will start with fresh water when the outside temps warm up. If the high pressure with my Honda gas powered washer works then I'll try a lower powered electric washer. https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/pressure-washer-abrasive-blasting-kit/A-p8067399e

Looks great... sort of Daytona banking action simulation.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Datsun-Competition-Parts-240Z-260Z-280Z-Rally-Suspension-Struts-L-R/173271087823?hash=item2857c2facf:g:S5oAAOSwKQ9Z7iZ~&vxp=mtr

Thanks again Terrapin Z! I'll post some photos after they are restored and installed.

I'm not sure but I will guess alternate centre jacking on the front cross member and then centre jacking on the rear differential can bring it up in steps. The jack will also have to be blocked as the heights increase. I did something similar years ago. Not sure if I have photos but it is an easy way to walk the Z higher.

@Terrapin Z Great! They look fine. I can clean them up with acid no problem. I'll take them as well as the proportioning valve, pressure-loss switch, the brass valve/splitter in the back (above the differential... see picture below) and all tube clips in the engine compartment too. PM me and we can sort out payment and shipping. BIG THANKS! That BRE will be grateful too! He may need more parts too. Glad you have a parts car!

The owner's brother did the lifting. He is into off-road truck trials and truck work so I think he is experienced.

Before:

I'm helping a club member finish his BRE tribute car. Some parts went AWOL during the decade at the body shop... no BS. Currently it is raised to run the brake and fuel lines but the owner lost the originals along with the fastening hardware. I'm currently looking for the rubber insulators and brackets to hold all lines. Grateful is someone has these parts for sale!

Getting better but you also need to factor HG volume which brings it down to 8.6:1 ratio. Another important factor is "squish". Which is how close the flat piston top comes to the flat chamber bottom. For your set up it will be ~ 1.1mm space. Ideally it should be less than 0.7mm but how close you bring them is balancing return with risk. You can bring the two closer and up the compression by offset grinding the crank to fit 1mm larger rod bearings or you can shave the top of the block 0.5mm. btw the 53.5cc volume you measured is very close to stock value. You can shave more off the head to bring up the compression.

Good stuff! Attached is a tool for engine planning. Below is your basic config entered. The 53.6cc chamber volume can be edited to 53.5 to match yours. As mentioned above, a good 0.080" shave (cc's at 46) will bring up the compression to ~ 9.7 which these engines seem to enjoy. S30 Engine Modeller V3 Beta 3.zip

So you buy car parts based on how they interface with your phone?

Probably for pedestrian safety. They probably fall off and can injure people due to poor fit or metal fatigue. Most Chinese fake parts sort of look like the original but function and quality are never the goals of a fake part.

Also, if it is a new head with fresh valve train parts,be sure to do the 20min non-stop ~2000rpm break-in with it well lubed with correct break-in oil and rebuild grease on the cam.

My sincere sympathy that you drank the Kool Aid.

Most use Felpro head gasket. Spraying with Copper Coat helps it seat better even though it is stamped with instructions to use dry.