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I'm preparing to enter the ring but with a twist: power washer rather than air compressor to wet blast with glass. It should be possible to recycle the water and filter it to keep any glass out of the high pressure pump however I will start with fresh water when the outside temps warm up. If the high pressure with my Honda gas powered washer works then I'll try a lower powered electric washer. https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/pressure-washer-abrasive-blasting-kit/A-p8067399e

Looks great... sort of Daytona banking action simulation.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Datsun-Competition-Parts-240Z-260Z-280Z-Rally-Suspension-Struts-L-R/173271087823?hash=item2857c2facf:g:S5oAAOSwKQ9Z7iZ~&vxp=mtr

Thanks again Terrapin Z! I'll post some photos after they are restored and installed.

I'm not sure but I will guess alternate centre jacking on the front cross member and then centre jacking on the rear differential can bring it up in steps. The jack will also have to be blocked as the heights increase. I did something similar years ago. Not sure if I have photos but it is an easy way to walk the Z higher.

@Terrapin Z Great! They look fine. I can clean them up with acid no problem. I'll take them as well as the proportioning valve, pressure-loss switch, the brass valve/splitter in the back (above the differential... see picture below) and all tube clips in the engine compartment too. PM me and we can sort out payment and shipping. BIG THANKS! That BRE will be grateful too! He may need more parts too. Glad you have a parts car!

The owner's brother did the lifting. He is into off-road truck trials and truck work so I think he is experienced.

Before:

I'm helping a club member finish his BRE tribute car. Some parts went AWOL during the decade at the body shop... no BS. Currently it is raised to run the brake and fuel lines but the owner lost the originals along with the fastening hardware. I'm currently looking for the rubber insulators and brackets to hold all lines. Grateful is someone has these parts for sale!

Getting better but you also need to factor HG volume which brings it down to 8.6:1 ratio. Another important factor is "squish". Which is how close the flat piston top comes to the flat chamber bottom. For your set up it will be ~ 1.1mm space. Ideally it should be less than 0.7mm but how close you bring them is balancing return with risk. You can bring the two closer and up the compression by offset grinding the crank to fit 1mm larger rod bearings or you can shave the top of the block 0.5mm. btw the 53.5cc volume you measured is very close to stock value. You can shave more off the head to bring up the compression.

Good stuff! Attached is a tool for engine planning. Below is your basic config entered. The 53.6cc chamber volume can be edited to 53.5 to match yours. As mentioned above, a good 0.080" shave (cc's at 46) will bring up the compression to ~ 9.7 which these engines seem to enjoy. S30 Engine Modeller V3 Beta 3.zip

So you buy car parts based on how they interface with your phone?

Probably for pedestrian safety. They probably fall off and can injure people due to poor fit or metal fatigue. Most Chinese fake parts sort of look like the original but function and quality are never the goals of a fake part.

Also, if it is a new head with fresh valve train parts,be sure to do the 20min non-stop ~2000rpm break-in with it well lubed with correct break-in oil and rebuild grease on the cam.

My sincere sympathy that you drank the Kool Aid.

Most use Felpro head gasket. Spraying with Copper Coat helps it seat better even though it is stamped with instructions to use dry.

A new one is coming out with usb i/o and rev limiter: https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/megajolte-mk2_crank_fired_ignition/

Don't forget https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/MegaJolt_Lite_Jr.

Just saw these at HF. Not a complete-coverage set but some nice sizes that could be used for jet drilling. https://www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-steel-micro-drill-bit-set-30-pc-61526.html Idle & Spill 50 (5) 0.5mm 60 (5) 0.6mm Main 120 (2) 1.2mm Air Corrector 150 (2) 1.5mm 180 (2) 1.8mm 200 (2) 2.0mm 235 (2) 2.35mm Other 80 (5) 0.8mm 100 (3) 1.0mm 300 (2) 3.0mm

New timing bolts are peace of mind. Turbo bolts are stronger though not needed for stock applications. Arp studs are strongest and overkill for stock application. You can make timing wedge from a non-splintery piece of wood. I saw a nice plastic table saw push stick at HF that could be shaped to do the trick: https://www.harborfreight.com/push-stick-33279.html

The guys is a crook who has already ripped people off.

I reported as fraudulent under the Ebay report item. Others are recommended to do so.

Yes, it makes sense. The choke cable interferes with the arms on the linkage when they swing down. It is a poor implementation. As mentioned above, just remove the cable completely.

Yes you can spay with carb cleaner and brush away carbon. The plugs clean themselves in the engine once you get it running and normal fuel flow. You can buy a spark plug cleaner if you want: https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-spark-plug-cleaner-32860.html

Too much carbon on your plugs. You fouled them.