240260280

Looks great from the photos and the value of these Z's is continually rising; so that is two items in its favour!

I'm currently in Oregon. Sometimes I work in Long Island and NJ area. I'll update you if there.

Yes. Just remove the choke cable from the carbs and ensure the lever on the top of the carbs is all the way off to prevent any choke circuit leaking into the manifold. You may enjoy this page: http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

No, Some have have a second "mini carburettor" that feeds air and gas directly into the manifold in parallel with the main throats... very over kill. Most just pump the pedal for a few squirts of raw gas from the accelerator circuit before cranking in cold weather.

https://www.innova.com/en-US/Product/Detail/3568

https://www.google.ca/search?q=site:classiczcars.com+bcdd&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjo7LbUlKbaAhVKoVMKHYC-AGIQ_AUIDSgE&biw=2049&bih=1011&dpr=0.67

Try turning the screw or bolt under the control valve located under the throttle body. It is called the boost controlled deceleration device (BCDD). It is a controlled leak around the throttle plate to reduce high manifold vacuum when the throttle valve snaps shut (usually under braking) The screw turning is trial and error until you are happy with the way the rpms fall when stopping.

You may consider replacing rear main seal on engine in addition to the rear seal on your transmission. Use a good spline grease on the transmission front shaft spline, the throw out bearing sliding surface, the fork assembly pressure points, pilot bushing surface at end of crank, propeller shaft spline,and in the throw-out bearing, Use blue loctite on the flywheel to crank bolts and pressure plate bolts (torque these properly).

I thought it was for smoothing pump output variations as the fuel system is open with a return line as opposed to plumbing to the bathroom which is closed. I did not think a water hammer effect would occur in an open system?

Silver Spray Paint or Copper Gasket Spray Head Gasket

Motor Oil Main bearing bolts Crank rod bolts Head bolts Piston Side oil holes Piston Pin Pre-lube oil passages in block

Clevite Assembly Lube: Rocker Pivot Tops Rocker Arms (both contact surfaces and socket) Valve Tip Lash Pad (top, sides, and bottom) Cam Lobes Cam Rotating contact surfaces Cam Tower Surfaces Main Bearings (inside, and sides of thrust) Crank Rotating contact surfaces (main and rod) Rod Bearings (inside)

Permatex Anaerobic Flange Sealant: Rear Main Cap base (back 25mm) Rear Main Cap side seals (top 25mm)

Dry: 1. Rod Bearing back sides 2. Main bearing back sides 3. Pilot bushing back side

Remove needle and plunger Install dome but with all 4 screws very loose and not touching dome Rotate Dome CCW and CW while lifting and dropping piston to explore where it binds and does not bind Put dome in middle of its free rotation limits Turn down 4 screws so they just kiss the metal dome Slowly and evenly tighten screws in a cross pattern (like lug nuts) in quarter turns while lifting and dropping piston Repeat if necessary If you can get it to drop w/o binding then install needle and repeat drop test. Install plunger and repeat drop test

Welcome! What year Z(s) are you driving?

I was thinking it was rust, as it seems to be missing from the list. Fer is short for Ferrous but sounds like Fur... yes an obtuse thought I know. Could have been a warp drive joke too:

Excellent tips! Thanks. This is the one that I missed that would have helped: 3) pull down the rear bearing cap until you are 3/4” from bottoming I had read to never pull the caps down in the Monroe of Honsowetz but I think it is needed for the last cap. I'll do it on my next rebuild for sure!

Darwin Award Nominee: https://www.reuters.com/article/us-tesla-crash/tesla-says-crashed-vehicle-had-been-on-autopilot-prior-to-accident-idUSKBN1H7023

Installed crank for first time. Took a while taking all of the measurements of the journals and bearings but all was in spec and. Even the crank float was in the middle of the range. The hardest part was just the rear main side seals. Guy that anaerobic sealant is fluorescent pink! Crank turns silky smooth by hand. I have to pick up rod bolts from MSA when in Oregon to finish the job. Pistons are waiting.

I'm wondering if the colder 160F thermostat is what is keeping the temp gauge lower and causing a seemingly long warm-up? I would think the Z gauge would centre on 180F but it does not really get there?

Do you have a thermostat installed? Most vehicles here are warmed up before 5min at -10C