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Nice to see chamfered head bolt holes. Edge at top of cylinder also looks chamfered

This doc? HJL38W.pdf

White lithium grease is more forgiving to rubber however Sylglide (silicone grease) or dielectric grease (similar) would be fine to use as well.

btw most use a windshield wiper too. I was thinking that a hatch from a car could make a nice door with wiper for a big unit.

You could also open a 1 minute pet washing service.

2.5 turns is for stock cam and stock needles. If the cam and/or needles are not stock, the number of turns may diverge from 2.5.

Lithium grease on the bottom of the strut insert should be safe.

Chris, another item popped up a few years ago. AES. I had to use a broker to help me with it when I brought my Ridgeline to Canada, before that I could do it all myself. https://aesforvehicles.com/

10mm down is from Brian Little. He is my Z hero so I believe him. See his work here: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/

Thanks Cliff! I just sent you a PM @Fame707.

Mercruiser Extreme Spline Grease Transmission spline to clutch Transmission spline to drive shaft Throw-out bearing sliding surface

Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant Liquid Timing cover to block gasket Thermostat housing to head gasket Thermostat housing to cover gasket Water pump gasket Water inlet fitting to timing cover gasket early 4 speed transmission body gaskets

Loctite "Thread Locker 242" aka Blue Loctite Crank Bolt Cam Sprocket Bolt Cam blocking Plate (with alignment mark) Flywheel Bolts Pressure Plate Bolts Oil pick-up bolts PCV-tube-mesh plate screws

Where do you like to use sealant, grease, antiseize, etc. on your Z and what brand & product name? I'll start:

I have two of these paperweights too. I just dropped them off with a crank at the engine shop to fix the non-fit issue. I'll let you know how it goes. btw the document that comes with these "performance " dampers specs 6500 rpm as the max.

@gnosez, @Diseazd, engine builders? Two questions related to post #18. Q1: What is a well tested sealant brand and type that you can recommend for sealing the back top corners of timing cover to the head, and for sealing the rear main bearing & side seals. Q2: Any special way/locations for placing the sealant when doing the rear main (engine rebuild)? Thanks

Maybe the new KYB seals' material now break down in oil. As mentioned above, oil helps transfer heat and stop rust.

The internet is dead. Communications used to be private. You picked up a phone and talked to someone at the far end in confidence. Now the govt, military, police, advertisers, retailers, data brokers, scammers, hackers, et al are now analyzing every word you type.

Just keep hitting the "report item" button.

Suddenly the paint is changed to matt too. The guy is a lying, cheating , prick who knowingly ripped people off.

Also, I am not sure if 1/16" inch below the jet nozzle at 2.5 turns down is correct. Here is what one expert measured... 10mm down from bridge. So top of fuel will be at 10 turns down.

1 turn = 1 mm. Also, it is important that the needles are set properly in the piston. The shoulder of the needle should be flush with the bottom of the piston (not with the bottom of the groove). Have a look at this:

Fantastic photos Kats! Detective work is fun. This is a nice one too... I think the plate was picked from their stock of plates on purpose. LHD 240z Promotion Photo (driving in Japan)

Charles..see pm attachments