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Nope.. transmission rear seal. Just mark diff, with drive shaft, remove 4 bolts at differential, and pull drive shaft spline out. Seal can then be changed.

rear seal is ez pz to change

If you have the ZX stick then the internal components or bottom nylon cup could be worn and causing the rattle. Try shimming the spring as a first step.

I've read that a two step seems to work: 1. Lacquer Thinner to soften. 2. Wintergreen oil to soak http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/soften-hard-rubber.865303/ Here in Canada, a rust proofing liquid called Rust Check seems to soften rubber nicely in an unwanted fashion. It may work too:

Here is a common Ford PCV 1/2" grommet part 42065 available at most autozone, canadian tire, etc shops. It comes close: 1/2" hole, 1" top curved face, 1.4" bottom face https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/dorman-help--4422/filters-16470/pcv-valve-grommet-12023/dorman-help-pcv-valve-grommet/42065/4527812/1989/ford/f-350 Part 42066 comes close too: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/dorman-help--4422/filters-16470/pcv-valve-grommet-12023/dorman-help-pcv-valve-grommet/42066/4527813/1968/ford/mustang

Mike, I used to have a 16 track reel-to-reel machine and for cleaning the rubber on the pinch roller, Tascam sold lacquer thinner. It softened the rubber while cleaning the iron oxide particles from its surface. A rub with some lacquer thinner may help soften the grommet.

Here is a rubber grommet that looks like it will work: 25mm diameter 12.5mm hole Some car rubber detailer fluid will make it black and shiny. https://www.ebay.com/itm/30-Rubber-Grommets-1-O-D-x-1-2-I-D-Hole-plus-or-minus/272214549916?hash=item3f6140659c:g:LJMAAOSwiylXBQk2

Kats, There are similar shaped parts that are used on floor carpets on modern cars. Not sure if you can find one similar but here is a Toyota example: I'll keep an eye out in hardware stores here. 1" top diameter and 1/2" shaft diameter.

Salt in the air from the Atlantic ocean (as fog and ocean spray), road salt, and daily winter temperature changes above and below freezing ensure all metal in this region gets a thorough thrashing of salty brine. It is easy to see the good metal from the bad metal. The Walker exhaust I put on my Rav is made from the same cheap crap and looks as bad as the rotor after a year! The original Toyota stuff lasts ~ 10 years or more. I would not buy a Korean car or Mazda here due to their accelerated rusting (compared to Honda and Toyota). Nissan and Subaru fall in between.

Try not to cringe at the Premium Napa Metal from China. Yes it is a rotor...not the rusted hull of the titanic. Neat thing is that the rust makes the rotor thicker over time so it will always exceed the minimum wear thickness.

Luv this thread!

For a 1-5-3-6-2-4 sequence in our I6 engines, from an exhaust-cross-pulse & reversion perspective, are the front 3 and the back 3 collected together out of historical convenience of location? i.e. 123 go to one tube and 456 to the other? Another pattern of less convenience could be 135 going to one tube and 246 to another tube? Would something like a 2 to 3 to 1 be better? i.e. 15 to A, 36 to B, 24 to C then ABC to 1?

I'll get it out this week.

I agree. It looks like the concentric grooves were filled to maintain alignment and to prevent the aluminum mounting flange from sliding up and down the tube (left/right relative to cars direction).... not to prevent rotating.

BTW your Z looks great!

At idle, the only places for air to pass to the cylinders are: On Carbs: 1. Idle enrichment screws. If these are open too much or if the idle jets are too large (have too much air and fuel passing through large drillings) 2. Throttle plate air bypass (built into 40DCOE 151 and 45DCOE152 carbs). Early carbs like your 40DCOE 18's may have holes drilled in throttle plates. 3. Twisted throttle shafts (one plate closed but the other is partially open...usually on early carbs with brass rods). On Intake: 1. Poor sealing between carb and manifold (loose hardware where softmount grommets/thackery washers are located). 2. Poor sealing between head and manifold. 3. Air leak from brake booster. 4. Other (such as you PCV fitting). What are your idle jet sizes? For a next step, I would recommend that you check for all of the manifold leaks then if no leak is found: Keep push rods off and, with engine running, start turning in idle enrichment screws in to full stop then back out to 1/2 turn (gentle pressure at full stop is fine). For early DCOE's like yours, the taper on the idle enrichment is rather abrupt so a small turn lets a lot of air and fuel pass. Most early carbs work between 1/2 to 3/4 turn out. Yours at 3/4 are way out there. Read this if you want your head to hurt: http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html :)

Thanks. Great info. Can you disconnect the push rods to make sure the throttle plates are at full stop? This could be the issue. Once you get the carbs air balanced and a nice idle, then you can attach the push rods to verify the same air flow( i.e. the push rods are not pushing at idle).

Can you write the full tipo and no for each carb like below? For your fast idle issue, set the timing at 15 degrees at idle, disconnect the push rod to each carb then start closing each throttle plate using the idle stop screw on each carb and see if you can get idle down. (this is a quick check). For next step: You will need to report idle jets and set idle enrichment screws our same amount then measure air flow in each throat. btw is your engine stock 2.4 with stock cam?